hi. could u help my brain

[imaguyilikeneatstuff]

I'm Cody. And i have a blown sub. A kicker L5. Only moves with my hand under a little bit of pressure... but still. its seized. makes grind noise. Research points to voice coil(?). Further research leads to me thinking i want to go to a brahma 15''... i have a chrysler concorde. Nice sized trunk. spacious. im 6'2'' 180 and uk... sometimes people end up laying in trunks... anyway. im not saying i put a body in my trunk.. well i did... my body. i could probably fit myself 3 times over in there.

back to the sub and my sub and such What im working with. 1st... limited knowlege.. but enough to know i dont need to spend large amounts for clean, powerful bass. 2nd... kicker zx750.1 . 2 s12L5s 1 was mentioned above as dead. i think i could scrap up 350$ for that... equipment is 1.5yr old and healthy so i believe. the corners of the subs are still strong. the amp still pushes like it always did, seemingly.... I can't find a website for them and have only found one for sale online but i think its long gone.

Is this sub sort of extinct... or do i have to join a secret society to obtain the higher knowledge of its whereabouts.

And i really enjoy bass as much as i enjoy sportbikes. much interest and passion involved in the relationship.. so with that being said; What could i power this new sub with. What should i put in my 2002 chrysler with 210,000 miles, besides heavier duty wire in the crucial 3 wires as listed on this forum.

[imaguyilikeneatstuff]

I dont want to run dual amps or anything either. and from what i read a brahma can handle a lot but i think 1 1kwatt rms amp would be plenty. How much does cold weather effect woofers.
oh..i found out info i was looking for on brahma i didnt have to join a secret society. just had to search for more than a minute
So they went out of business...?
now what... lol

now im gonna go be a vegetable. and eat a lottt

edit..
i found http://www.powermaxelectronics.com.. nice..

that really narrowed my selection...

now for real going go be a vegetable for real..
will be looking forward to ur input.

[Easy E]

Adire Audio is long gone. Check www.reaudio.com The XXX series used to be very similar to the Adire Tumult, which was a beefier version of the Brahma. I haven't followed RE in a while but they were top notch stuff. I knew a few of the guys at RE.

[imaguyilikeneatstuff]

k.

what do you think of

http://www.powermaxelectronics.com/p...&idcategory=13

Seems like a killer deal and a really beefy sub.

i found a sundown amp for 280.. 1200 rms.
but i dont know much of this brand.

http://www.powermaxelectronics.com/p...&idcategory=10

Its obviously a decent power match up. but do you think that this amp would overheat easily, or that i may encounter any other problems..
I really like the prices on these items however im a little skeptical because of my ignorance. My gut tells me these are awesome deals. I just want good, powerful sound. without breaking my wallet with crazy prices like one would pay for one(1) ridiculous 1000$ W7 (waste of money) I also want reliability. Im not asking you to make my mind up for me. Just want a higher experienced opinion to guide me u kno?

Thanks again

Cody.

Edit.

I looked into the RE subs.. u r right ez. they still seem to be top notch stuff and i found nice prices on ebay. still would like input on the Cadence 15'' tho.

Another factor i was thinking about that i would like more insight into..
Whats difference between 2 12's and 1 15''(besides obvious). I really like double bass. ive tried a memphis C3 15'' vs my kicker 12'' L5's and the C3 seemed to hit deeper (obviously) but it seemed to struggle with the double bass.. it just didnt seem as percise as the L5's.

im terribly confused.

[KirK]

I know MTX makes square subwoofers now. I think the twelve inch model handles up to 750W RMS. I'm not sure what the model number is, but I imagine it's as easy as typing the description in a search engine. I know the Kicker L5's are square. Maybe you can use your existing enclosure.

What's the internal volume of the enclosure you have now. If it conforms with the MTX woofers volume specifications, I'm sure the two will make a good combination. From what I read, the square MTX 12" subwoofer performs similarly to a Kicker 12" L7 (i.e. one-way excursion is 15.2 mm).

Otherwise, the Reasonant Engineering XXX is a good route to take. Good luck.

[imaguyilikeneatstuff]

I do not know how to calculate this internal volume.
But i think the box is somewhere around 38x16x16 with somewhere around 4.5 ft^3. and 3/4'' thick material. Its kickers ported enclosure for the l5/7's. And it was loud and sounded good.


Im kinda tight on money on account of school and all so idk if i can afford MTX's new sq sub. but i did look it up. nice . i was thinking about the one 15'' cadence that i posted about above along with the amp as well..
they are both priced nicely lol.
With that sub at 1500 rms.
and that amp running around the same.
just seems right..
except the super low price on that sub makes me wary. i think its an 08 model and warranty info says doa only.

i rlly hate being with only 1 sub... the 1L5 gets just as loud as the 2 together did. but i feel like im going to kill the other one if its loud so i rarely turn it up.
I really just want this next system to give people (people with vaginas) orgasms from the bass. i also want it to last a while. and be accurate...
yeah...
that would be the equivalent of doing a wheelie at 140mph to me..

[KirK]

I do not know how to calculate this internal volume.
But i think the box is somewhere around 38x16x16 with somewhere around 4.5 ft^3. and 3/4'' thick material. Its kickers ported enclosure for the l5/7's. And it was loud and sounded good.


Im kinda tight on money on account of school and all so idk if i can afford MTX's new sq sub. but i did look it up. nice . i was thinking about the one 15'' cadence that i posted about above along with the amp as well..
they are both priced nicely lol.
With that sub at 1500 rms.
and that amp running around the same.
just seems right..
except the super low price on that sub makes me wary. i think its an 08 model and warranty info says doa only.

i rlly hate being with only 1 sub... the 1L5 gets just as loud as the 2 together did. but i feel like im going to kill the other one if its loud so i rarely turn it up.
I really just want this next system to give people (people with vaginas) orgasms from the bass. i also want it to last a while. and be accurate...
yeah...
that would be the equivalent of doing a wheelie at 140mph to me..

Okay, presuming you have taken General Chemistry the internal volume is calculated using this lovely process called Dimensional Analysis. From the numbers you provided me, here is what I arrived at

(9728 in^3) x (1 ft^3) / (1728 in^3) -- (1470.42187500 in^3) x (1 ft^3) / (1728 in^3) = (insert answer here)

Whew! Sorry, I don't have access to a calculator right now and all of that just looks cumbersome. But, I hope that helps. The Subtractand is the volume including the panels and the Subtractor is the volume of all the panels.

As far as Cadence is concerned, I've read good reviews about their amplifiers, but I haven't heard anything about their drivers. Sorry. Easy E can definitely shed more light here, or can suggest an alternative. Just check the forums periodically.

* KirK Edit

Whoops! I forgot that partition that separates the chambers... and I suspect I made a sign error. Whoops #2: that elusive 0.75 factor. Grrrrr!!! How foolish of me... Sorry.

[imaguyilikeneatstuff]

lol it does look a little combersome. but i do believe the internal volume is 6.414 cu ft. But how does this relate to new subs? lol. Well anyway i may as well milk the cow. How does internal volume relate to the tuning of a box. Lower volume = higher hz? throwing ur answer in a nutshell would be appreciated lol.

My L5s were nice and loud. and they'd hit nice and low. But with this 15" i want to get just as low if not lower and still have some really hard kick through some double bass metal.

Oh and there is no divider in the box, its ported.
A friend told me the other day that even if i goto a much larger amp that it wouldnt matter because my alternator probably doesnt push out much more than 1k watts. Is this true?

The cadence is a "competition" sub. Should i shy away from comp subs for use in a daily driver?

thanks,
Cody.

I think what im looking for from u guys is buying guidance, if u will. The kinda unbiased guidance i could never get from the douchebags down at soundworld who jack off to their JL audio equipment. Not that JL isnt nice stuff.. i rlly like the slash amps.. but uk..

[KirK]

lol it does look a little combersome. but i do believe the internal volume is 6.414 cu ft. But how does this relate to new subs? lol. Well anyway i may as well milk the cow. How does internal volume relate to the tuning of a box. Lower volume = higher hz? throwing ur answer in a nutshell would be appreciated lol.

My L5s were nice and loud. and they'd hit nice and low. But with this 15" i want to get just as low if not lower and still have some really hard kick through some double bass metal.

Oh and there is no divider in the box, its ported.
A friend told me the other day that even if i goto a much larger amp that it wouldnt matter because my alternator probably doesnt push out much more than 1k watts. Is this true?

The cadence is a "competition" sub. Should i shy away from comp subs for use in a daily driver?

thanks,
Cody.

I think what im looking for from u guys is buying guidance, if u will. The kinda unbiased guidance i could never get from the douchebags down at soundworld who jack off to their JL audio equipment. Not that JL isnt nice stuff.. i rlly like the slash amps.. but uk..

Okay, one final "Whoops". I forgot to multiply the 0.75 by 2 on all the lateral sides of the enclosure. So this is the definitive "modified" result...

(7404.1875 in^3) x (1 ft^3) / (1728 in^3) approximately 4.3 ft^3.

But you said 6.414 ft^3. That internal volume is even better. Now, the reason I brought up "internal volume" is that if you wanted to replace the one subwoofer with another 12" L5 or if you wanted to replace both with two square 12" MTX of two 12" L7 Kickers, then it would be feasible with your existing ported enclosure. But, I do understand where you're comming from. The new MTX drivers are a bit expensive. The higher the internal volume is, especially with a vented enclosure, the lower the tuning. So, yes, your assumption is correct. It sounds like you want a new subwoofer, so, you can neglect my inquiry of "internal volume".

As far as the 15" subwoofer is concerned. Any 15" will get low, and even some can dip into the infrasonic frequencies. So, that characteristic "deep" sound will not be a problem. Given the size of a 15", the bass will sound powerful, but if you're moving from two twelves to a fifteen, you will notice a decrease in sound pressure. Two twelves will displace air much faster than a lone fifteen will. I hope that answers that one question.

As far as the automobiles direct current is concerned. If your sound system exceeds 1000 watts RMS, then yes, it's time for an alternator upgrade. Easy E and CVStoker recommend getting the alternators through a fellow by the name of Dom Iraggi. Here is his contact info: dominick@tds.net or 1-615-287-7991.

Now, it's time to answer your question about the "buying guidance". Cody, there's this saying in reference to loudspeaker performance. "There's no replacement for driver displacement." That is to say, a loudspeaker is only as good as the volume of surrounding air it displaces. There is other attributes such as the loudspeakers motor performance. But, the driver's displacement is the critical facet. So when you're shopping and comparing drivers, keep a sharp eye on "Driver Displacement" in the driver's thiele parameters. Naturally, the higher the displacement, the better. Good luck, Cody. I hope all of that helps.

[imaguyilikeneatstuff]

Hmmm...
My car has quite a bit of mileage. i dont know if i should go the aftermarket alternator route with this vehicle(210k miles).

hmm hmmm hmm

This info was what i was looking for. Now my research will be a little more loaded if you know what i mean. I think i may just end up saving up, getting two 15's (!) and a 1(+)k watt amp.
How about 1 12 and 1 15?
I could design an enclosure to hold 1 15 and 1 12, right? or should they be in seperate enclosures.

Or...

How i was thinking before..

Would 1 15 and 1 10 be good for hitting a wider array of frequencies? The ten for hitting highs and the 15 for lows? Could any cancellation occur?

[KirK]

Hmmm...
My car has quite a bit of mileage. i dont know if i should go the aftermarket alternator route with this vehicle(210k miles).

hmm hmmm hmm

This info was what i was looking for. Now my research will be a little more loaded if you know what i mean. I think i may just end up saving up, getting two 15's (!) and a 1(+)k watt amp.
How about 1 12 and 1 15?
I could design an enclosure to hold 1 15 and 1 12, right? or should they be in seperate enclosures.

Or...

How i was thinking before..

Would 1 15 and 1 10 be good for hitting a wider array of frequencies? The ten for hitting highs and the 15 for lows? Could any cancellation occur?

Well, if there is a contrast in the size of the subwoofer drivers in the vehicle, then there will be some phase cancellation issues. Try keeping things the same size to avoid that issue.

As far as those sizes are concerned, a twelve inch driver is usually a great alternative for those seeking a happy-medium, if you will, between the sound of a ten and a fifteen. However, this is just my perceptive bias. If you want one fifteen, that works just as well too. Then, it's just a matter of setting the Low-Pass-Filter on your amplifier. In general, 80 Hz is a good adjustment.

[Easy E]

Time to clear some things up. First of all car audio is 80% install and 20% equipment. I can make most 15s sound like a 10. Just stick it in a small sealed box so the QTC is around .9 and you should be set as long as the inductance of the driver isn't too high. Woofer speed has to do with inductance and not the size of the driver. I still have the white paper on my other computer if you care to read it. Other things that can cause the woofer to sound muddy or slow is the delay of the speaker. You mostly run into those issues with large ported boxes.

Don't ever mix subwoofer sizes, or subwoofers or types of boxes. It will just sound like butt. Each subwoofer has a different frequency response delay etc and cause all types of phasing issues.

About competition subwoofers it can mean many things. It could be a marketing term, or it can mean it is designed for the maximum amount of SPL and sound like total ass. It really depends on the manufacture. I don't have any experience with Cadence subwoofers.

The amplifier you are looking at I have never heard of them before. Since it is preorder it makes me cautious of any issues.

What kind of budget do you have to spend? Give us a rough estimate and I can maybe work up some magic for you.

[imaguyilikeneatstuff]

I would like to read any informative literature. What is a "white paper" in this case? google tells me a few things but i dont know how the term is used here.

I could scrap up around 300 for my kicker zx 750.1. and my 1 L5..
maybe.
so..
i think i should safely assume
200..
+ other sources.
i think i would spend around 700.
maybe more..
i wanna go above and beyond what i had with my kickers..
i plan on making my enclosures too
and i think i spent way too much on the kicker system..
around 1.2k

so thats that
cat in a hat
mike birbiglia..

[KirK]

Time to clear some things up. First of all car audio is 80% install and 20% equipment. I can make most 15s sound like a 10. Just stick it in a small sealed box so the QTC is around .9 and you should be set as long as the inductance of the driver isn't too high. Woofer speed has to do with inductance and not the size of the driver. I still have the white paper on my other computer if you care to read it. Other things that can cause the woofer to sound muddy or slow is the delay of the speaker. You mostly run into those issues with large ported boxes.

Sorry, Easy E. I just thought I would help him out with what little knowledge I had... or I guess lack thereof...

Good luck, Cody. Sorry if I gave you false guidance. I like to read up on things that are related to car audio. However, like I said before, I am not educated in acoustical engineering. So when I read up on articles and reviews, I suppose I just take it as here-say without rigorously contemplating some of the statements. My posts, to some degree, reflect what I have read over the years. I suppose I accept it as true; unconscious about the article or review's invalidity. I guess I'm stupid and am destined to be stupid no matter what profession, or for that matter obsession, I pursue. Who was I to criticize jlaudioman18? I'm just as dumb as he is...

I guess I am of no use here. I'm going to go away now.

Good Bye.

[imaguyilikeneatstuff]

I guess I'm stupid and am destined to be stupid no matter what profession, or for that matter obsession, I pursue. Who was I to criticize jlaudioman18? I'm just as dumb as he is...

I guess I am of no use here. I'm going to go away now.

Good Bye.

You are at least are open minded enough to seek a greater understanding. Whereas idiots like JLaudioman flood the world with their tunnel vision minds.

Im not high enough for this philosophic deep thinking.
On with the woofer guidance, bat man.


-waiting Ez's reply, wondering if he thinks a 700 dollar budget is crazy-

Oh, and EZE u said its all set up. And phase cancellation occurs with different sizes. So... If i were to still want to hit highs and lows, i could do so by: Same sized subs, Seperate boxes, Different sized boxes. End.?

[Easy E]

KirK you are not useless, keep trying and learning. A $700 budget isn't crazy. I know someone who created a SPL van for $500 and beat everyone at the local competition. The biggest question is how much space do you have to work with? That way I can decide if you should go multiple small woofers or a few bigger ones etc. Also what balance of SQ and SPL do you want? Another brand that is still around is the Incriminator Audio. They have a few subs as well and mostly cheap.

[imaguyilikeneatstuff]

My trunk is large. My kicker enclosure fits in with ease but there was only 1 foot of room after the port. I would say my trunk is somewhere near 5x4x1.5. im pretty sure i could fit 2 15's at least. Should i keep my kicker zx750.1 or try to get some money out of it? it seems to be a killer amp, really. i was thinking about 1000 and a cap but cant decide, or know of a better alternative. As far as SPL... i like spl. and i enjoy quality. i want as much SPL as possible while keeping respectable SQ.

[carnut1420]

helping ur brain is impossible

dupontregistry

[Easy E]

Sorry about the delay. You can keep your kicker amp if you want its not a bad amp.

Get a RE SX D4 15" (Dual 4 ohm so you can wire it into parallel to 2 ohms) or a Incriminator Audio DVC 1 ohm (so you can wire it in series to 2 ohms).

Once you decide on which sub, I can help you design a box to get the most out of the subwoofer. Sorry about the delay I was out of town for a few days.

[imaguyilikeneatstuff]

Sorry about the delay. You can keep your kicker amp if you want its not a bad amp.

Get a RE SX D4 15" (Dual 4 ohm so you can wire it into parallel to 2 ohms) or a Incriminator Audio DVC 1 ohm (so you can wire it in series to 2 ohms).

Once you decide on which sub, I can help you design a box to get the most out of the subwoofer. Sorry about the delay I was out of town for a few days.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RE-AUDIO-SX1...item45eda7690b


Thats the RE. And i believe its the model you suggested, Please check link to make sure.
I couldn't find an incriminator 1ohm. Is that the death row series?
Either way, Ill go with the RE.
Sorry for my delay haha.
Enjoying college break, its good stuff.

Back to amps. I will try the RE with my 2yo kicker amp. Although im thinking i just may want to goto 1000.. IF i do goto 1000... what will the difference be? My kicker is a 750 mono, and from my understanding, kicker amps are fairly underrated.

So
Would i notice a worthy difference upping to 1000 rms?
As far as longitude goes, would the sub be better off with 750 than 1000, or would it not make a difference (I have learned how to adjust amps and deck to keep a healthy output, just putting it out there)
And finally, If 1000 would be worth it, What brands should i look at for quality vs good price..

sorry for my delay as well.

[Easy E]

That is a D2, look for the D4 and use your current amp. If you go to 1000 watts you will gain the maximum 1db.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RE-AUDIO-SX1...#ht_4816wt_996

[imaguyilikeneatstuff]

That is a D2, look for the D4 and use your current amp. If you go to 1000 watts you will gain the maximum 1db.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RE-AUDIO-SX1...#ht_4816wt_996

Alright.. Im buying an RE.
And i will definitely keep my amp.
Would two(2) of these subs = more SPL?

I think i may have the space in my trunk.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-NEW-RE-AUDIO-S...QQcmdZViewItem

Thats a link for two D4's for around 265 a piece.

If 2 would be a waste of money, forget i mentioned it.

[Easy E]

I would go with one woofer, you won't see much gain going with 2 unless you want to get a bigger amp which means bigger alternator etc.

[imaguyilikeneatstuff]

I would go with one woofer, you won't see much gain going with 2 unless you want to get a bigger amp which means bigger alternator etc.

Alright, kinda what i figured. Will order sub soon. And pick up some 1/2'' mdf.

[Easy E]

1/2" MDF is way too thin. Go at least 3/4"MDF and don't forget to brace it well.