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  1. #101
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    '02 Explorer woes

    Geez, I wish I'd read all this 6 months ago. My '02 Explorer's O/D and engine light started flashing on and off around 60,000 miles. Since I'd just paid an arm and leg for the 60,000 service, and since lights kept going off, I didn't worry. Now my car has been at the dealer for 4 days and they've only now figured out the transmission needs to be replaced. They seem to be giving me a big discount compared to what it could cost, but if this is as big a problem as it seems from reading these posts, we shouldn't have to pay a dime. I'm going to dump this lemon as quickly as I can!

  2. #102
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    Problems w/electric windows Ford Explorer 02 eddie bauer?

    The power windows have quit working on my vehicle. Can anyone tell me which fuse exactly is what runs the electric windows and where it's located? I know the fuse box is under the panel but would like ot know if anyone has any personal experience with this type of problem or can point out a good web site with information.

    The manual had almost NOTHING in it about the electrical window system.

  3. #103
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    just had the master power window switch go bad on my 02 explorer. all windows and door locks worked except driver side window went down and would not go back up. needed to replace the switch which is located in the drivers side door panel just below control panel. part was $106.00 plus tax. easy fix. the $106.00 wasn't so easy.

  4. #104
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    Rochester, NY
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    I bought a 2003 Explorer LTD V6 Centennial with 62K miles on it, added the extra protection BaseCARE warranty (glad that I did after reading this and other forums) that will cover me until 9/2009 or 98K miles, and have been having (I think) the rear differential whine since shortly after I bought the vehicle. It only appears between 50mph and 62mph, and sounds like a humming from the rear. It's not terribly loud (drowned out my my stereo or climate control fans most of the time), and sounds like usual truck noise to me. I have also noticed some random cold weather noises (only since temp has dropped below 45 degrees):

    1. Clicking/clattering from my center console when the climate control is set to automatic and temp > 72 degrees, or when the climate control is adjusted to above this temperature from a lower setting. Been told my both another forum reader and the service front desk man at my local dealership that it sounds like the control blend doors.

    2. High-pitched whine from the front of the vehicle shortly after starting in < 30 degree weather. It is intermittent, and only last a very short time (usually less than 2 seconds) before disappearing. May happen once, or may happen several times over the course of the drive.

    I have to say that the truck was in pristine condition when I bought it... the dealer (Mike Ognibene Ford in Batavia, NY) replaced the brakes, rotors, alloys, and tires, in addition to fixing some hood rust, prior to me picking it up all free of charge. I just had the 65K oil change and lubrication performed at my local dealership (not the same one that I bought it from). I haven't noticed any leakage from my undercarriage, or any transmission slipping, etc. It's been snowing, and as far as I can tell, my 4x4 system is functioning fine.

    I am aware of the TSB out there about this problem, and will probably address it in a few months when I have a more relaxed schedule and can take some time with the car at the dealership. I hope my warranty will cover any rear differential or tranny problems that may need to be fixed/replaced, because I cannot afford a $3-4K bill at this point.

    Just wanted to join the conversation... thanks... and as always, any opinions or suggestions are always appreciated.

  5. #105
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    Rochester, NY
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    Many people have also referred to this TSB (technical service bulletin) 05-23-3 from Ford regarding the rear differential noise (see below). My question is this... I have a Ford extended protection plan warranty until 9/09 or 98K miles. The warranty info below states eligibility under the new car limited warranty. Does this mean that I'll have to eat the full cost of repair, even with the d*** extended warranty?

    FORD: 1997-2005 Expedition, F-150
    2002-2005 Explorer
    LINCOLN: 1998-2005 Navigator
    2003-2005 Aviator
    MERCURY: 2002-2005 Mountaineer

    This article supersedes TSB 05-12-6 to update the Service Kit and Service Procedure information.

    ISSUE:
    Some vehicles may exhibit an axle whine or hum during acceleration, deceleration and/or cruise.

    ACTION:
    An axle repair kit has been developed which incorporates most parts required for a comprehensive axle repair. The kit should be used instead of installing a complete axle assembly to repair an axle whine/hum. Replace Ring and Pinion with Axle Kit and Components.

    NOTE: REFER TO THE "DIFFERENTIAL RING AND PINION" IN-VEHICLE REPAIR PROCEDURE IN THE ONLINE WORKSHOP MANUAL SECTION 205-00, FOR THE LATEST AXLE DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR PROCEDURES.

    NOTE: FOR 1999 AND PRIOR MODEL YEAR VEHICLES, USE THE 2000 MODEL YEAR WORKSHOP MANUAL.

    NOTE: WHEN SERVICING THE REAR AXLE ON ANY 2002-2004 F-150, EXPEDITION, NAVIGATOR, EXPLORER OR MOUNTAINEER BUILT BEFORE 3/30/2004, IF FLUID REPLACEMENT IS REQUIRED, REPLACE THE ORIGINAL FUEL EFFICIENT HIGH PERFORMANCE (FEHP) SAE 75W-90 REAR AXLE LUBRICANT WITH SAE 75W-140 HIGH PERFORMANCE SYNTHETIC REAR AXLE LUBRICANT. WHEN THE FLUID TYPE IS CHANGED, REPLACE THE CURRENT "FEHP" METAL TAG WITH A NEW "75W-140" TAG (F3TZ-4121-AA). IN ADDITION, REMOVE OR BLOCK-OUT THE FEHP REFERENCE ON THE MULTI-COLORED LABEL LOCATED ON THE RIGHT SIDE AXLE TUBE. IF THE AXLE IS A LIMITED-SLIP MODEL, USE XL3 ADDITIVE FRICTION MODIFIER IN THE QUANTITY RECOMMENDED BY THE WORKSHOP MANUAL.

    KIT ORDERING: REFER TO THE VEHICLE AXLE TAG FOR AXLE RATIO IDENTIFICATION

    5L3Z-4209-A = (8.8-Inch Ring Gear/3.31 ratio) (1997-2005 F-150)
    5L3Z-4209-B = (8.8-Inch Ring Gear/3.55 ratio) (1997-2005 F-150, 2002-2005 Explorer/Mountaineer/Aviator)
    5L3Z-4209-C = (8.8-Inch Ring Gear/3.73 ratio) (1997-2005 F-150, 2002-2005 Explorer/Mountaineer/Aviator, 2003-2004 Expedition/Navigator)
    5L3Z-4209-D = (9.75-Inch Ring Gear/3.31 ratio) (1997-2005 F-150, 2005 Expedition/Navigator, 1997-2002 Expedition/Navigator)
    5L3Z-4209-E = (9.75-Inch Ring Gear/3.55 ratio) (1997-2005 F-150, 1997-2002 Expedition/Navigator)
    5L3Z-4209-F = (9.75-Inch Ring Gear/3.73 ratio) (1997-2005 F-150, 1997-2005 Expedition/Navigator)
    NOTE: 9.75 REAR AXLE HOUSINGS WERE REDESIGNED IN MID-1999, INCREASING FRONT PINION BEARING SIZE. REPLACING RING & PINIONS IN AN OLD-STYLE AXLE ASSEMBLY WILL REQUIRE INSTALLATION OF SPACER P/N YL3Z-4662-CA. SPACER IS TO BE INSTALLED BETWEEN INNER PINION BEARING AND COLLAPSIBLE SPACER.

    THE AXLE SERVICE KITS INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING COMPONENTS:

    4630 - Head Bearing
    4628 - Head Bearing Cup
    4676 - Pinion Seal
    386989-S2 - Washer (Slinger)
    4621 - Tail Bearing
    4616 - Tail Bearing Cup
    4222 - Differential Bearing Cups
    4221 - Differential Bearings
    4209 - Gear Set (includes pinion shims, pinion nut and crush spacer)
    4209 - Instruction Sheet
    NOTE: THE KIT DOES NOT INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING ITEMS. SOME OR ALL OF THESE ITEMS WILL BE REQUIRED TO COMPLETE THE AXLE SERVICE, DEPENDING ON AXLE APPLICATION/STYLE.

    ORDER AS NEEDED:

    NOTE: REUSE OF RING GEAR BOLTS, CARRIER BEARING CAP BOLTS AND DIFFERENTIAL SLAVE PIN RETAINING BOLT REQUIRES CLEANING OF THREADS AND INSTALLATION OF TA-27 STUD AND BEARING MOUNT RETAINING COMPOUND & SEALANT.

    YL3Z-4662-CA - Pinion Bearing Spacer for 1997-1998 9.75 axles
    XG-14 - Gear Marking Compound
    4067 - Differential Shims 0.241" to 0.307"
    SAE XY-75W140-QL - High Performance Synthetic Rear Axle Lubricant
    XL-3 - Additive Friction Modifier (Limited Slip Axles Only)
    205-506 - Seal Protectors (Rotunda Tool)
    W710084-S439 - Wheel End Nuts
    390266-S100 - Differential Slave Pin Bolt (9.75" axles)
    387426-S100 - Differential Slave Pin Bolt (8.8" axles)
    4B422 - Axle Circlips
    ZC-21 - Metal Surface Cleaner
    TA-29 - Ultra Silicone Sealant
    TA-27 - Stud and Bearing Mount Retaining Compound and Sealer
    F3TZ-4121-AA - Fluid Tag (REQUIRED IF FLUID TYPE IS CHANGED FROM FEHP DURING REPAIR)

    WARRANTY STATUS:
    Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

    OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
    052303A 1997-2002 Expedition, 1998-2002 Navigator, 1997-2004 F-150 Heritage, 2004-2005 F-150: Rear Axle Noise Repair (Includes Time For Road Test To Verify Concern (Beam Axle)) (Do Not Use With 4205A Or 4205A4) 4.7 Hrs.
    052303A 2003-2005 Expedition: Rear Axle Noise Repair (Includes Time For Road Test To Verify Concern (Irs Axle)) (Do Not Use With 4010D Or 4010D4) 5.8 Hrs.
    052303A 2003-2005 Expedition/Navigator With Air Suspension: Rear Axle Noise Repair (Includes Time For Road Test To Verify Concern (Irs Axle)) (Do Not Use With 4010D Or 4010D4) 5.9 Hrs.
    052303A 2002-2005 Explorer/Mountaineer, 2003-2005 Aviator: Rear Axle Noise Repair (Includes Time For Road Test To Verify Concern (Irs Axle)) (Do Not Use With 4010D Or 4010D4) 6.6 Hrs.

    DEALER CODING
    BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
    4209 14
    Last edited by BUmmedic; 01-30-2007 at 06:47.

  6. #106
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    Mar 2005
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    Rear End Noise

    I've had the rear end noise problem with my 2002 Explorer V-6 XLT - went through the dealer and had rear end, driveshaft, and transmission housing replaced all under warranty. The rear end noise never completely went away. Soon after the warranty expired the noise got very loud. The dealer said no warranty because of the time & mileage - about a year and 12,000 miles. I took the Explorer to a local junk yard repair shop. They replaced the rear wheel bearings which were dry. Since the replacement I have put on over 30,000 miles and no noise. Now my airconditioner quit. It has been leaking ever since the 1st year I had the vehicle. I had it recharged and leak tested with no leaks showing for 3 seasons. Then this year a leak showed at the rear axle junction where the A/C tube comes from the front and connects with the rear air. I have had 3 dealers tell me this is a common problem because Ford used steel to steel connections where the items are exposed to the weather. The tube was rusted and leaking. I called Ford with no satisfaction. I had been to a Ford dealer getting prices on a new Freestar, but with Fords reply on the A/C after all the other problems I had with the Explorer, I bought 2 Chrysler Vans, and I love them and I'm not having any problems with them. No wonder Ford is going broke.

  7. #107
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    Feb 2007
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    Londonderry, NH
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    2003 Explorer Issues

    After reading many of these posts/replies, it seems that our 2003 XLT also falls under some of the problems. I have never been to the dealer only for the rear liftgate strut rods recall and a faulty crank trigger when it was brand new.

    We bought our 2003 Explorer, V6, XLT new in 2003 and it now has 30k miles. Out of warranty since the 3 years are up as of 7/06.

    1. Differential whine. Yes, it is there and I noticed it rather early on. It's not very loud and if I let off the gas, it goes away. I'll keep my eye on it.

    2. Strange high pitch from transmission when it's cold out. This comes and goes but the truck shifts nicely even when the sound is present. Trans has had some erratic shifts once in a great while.

    3. In the past few months, my wife complained about the passenger side blowing cold air inside the glove box. Yes, I looked into it this past weekend and it appears the blend door is sitting on top of the cabin air filter. Wonderful. This morning it is 5 degrees F so I shoved a piece of foam up there to stop the air from blowing through.

    I've called called 4 dealerships yesterday at randaom and all three of these itmes are "oh yes, we can fix all of those, and they are all quite comon". So it seems that Ford is once again covering up many things that should be recalled.

    Just an FYI for the Japanese van lovers, Honda had a serious issue with transmissions LOCKING UP on 1999-2002 Odysses and Pilots. They did not send a recall but asked that owners birng your vehicle to the dealer ASAP.

  8. #108
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    hello

    i have a 2002 ford explorer and it just started making a clunking sound from the rear end it does it when going in reverse and when in drive when i start moving or slowing down. could some one please tell me what could be causing this and how to fix it

  9. #109
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    Loud whining and thumping

    My wife and I bought our 2002 4x4 eddie bauer new. We had it in for warranty work on the rearend once, they replaced the clutch pack. Couple other minor things like the seat track and fuel mileage(they re-programmed it). There really have only been a few probs with this car. The rear blend doors click, the rear glass lift gate is out of adjustment(need to do the recall) and there has been a low speed vibration when turning. We also have the rear whine, but pretty much got used to it. There are 94k miles on the car now.

    Last week, my wife sliced the right rear tire on something, so we took it in to get a whole new set of tires since the set on it had about 45k miles on them. Got the tires, everything looks good. Get out on the highway and I hear this loud noise like a helicopter is flying overhead and a subtle thump noise. Slow down and the slower the car goes, the louder the thumping noise is. Come to a stop and start back out, don't hear anything, about 45-50mph get the loud whining noise again. It sounds like the car is in 4x4 high, the steering is a little weird feeling when it does this. I once read a while back that tire circumference can wreak havoc on these vehicles since the auto 4x4 sensors are so touchy.

    I have a good friend who is a Ford Sr. Master Mechanic. I've sent him an e-mail asking about his problem. He thought the low speed shudder while turning might have been the 4x4 auto sensors, but we never looked into it. He said that we might have a hub bearing going out, which is causing the thumping noise now.

    We only have 5 more payments on this thing. We probably should have leased it instead of buy. If anyone has anymore additional information about the problem I described, please post!

    Thanks

  10. #110
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    Same noise

    I had a similar noise and ignored it. Eventually, it got so bad that it felt like the rear end was sliding out from underneath me. I took it to the dealer (fortunately I had the Ford ESP) and it turned out that the axle bearings had essentially disintegrated and the axle nearly fell out. In fact the mechanic said that when he put the truck on the lift the axle nearly fell out of the differential.
    So that was fine until a year later almost to the day the same thing happened on the other side. I took it back in and lo and behold it was the bearing on the other side.
    So don't let it go too long without dealing with it.

  11. #111
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    Ditto...

    my 92,??? mile 2002 Explorer is also making noise. I took it to a tech and he diagnosed it was the timing chain. My extended warranty also just ran out; due to my high mileage. Have you heard anything else re: the chain lasting and just making noise? Did you take your car in and repair it?

    My tech told me it's like a lawn mower chain. [Just so happen his shop was right next to a lawn mower repair shop.] When the chain is loose and it doesn't hit the clip at the right time, it'll make the noise. He said if it misses it completely and I notice the sterring gets tight, to pull on the side and stop the car. He mentioned it'll costs about $2k and he doesn't do the timing chain because it's a pain. I relunctantly called my ford service co and they confirmed my warranty has expried, if it was my timing chain it'll costs about $1k+ (labor) and $500+ (parts).

    Now I'm sitting here with my next car pymt coming up in a couple of days, a car that makes noise (and unsure if it'll break anytime soon), and contemplating to trade-it in and get another vehicle with a not so good credit. Yikes!

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by dawnl
    my 92,??? mile 2002 Explorer is also making noise. I took it to a tech and he diagnosed it was the timing chain. My extended warranty also just ran out; due to my high mileage. Have you heard anything else re: the chain lasting and just making noise? Did you take your car in and repair it?
    dawnl, my 96,000 mile 99 Ford Explorer (4.0 SOHC) had the same issue for a while (at least a year). It had a rough idle when cold and wasn't running very well. I had it serviced several times during that time and unfortunately they never caught it. A few weeks ago I went out to my truck to start it. It made a pretty awful sound, died, and would not start again. A nearby Ford dealership told me it was a "complete engine failure" and quoted me $4700, before tax, for the replacement. I ended up having another mechanic (who confirmed that my valves were damaged) replace the engine with a low-mileage junkyard engine for around 2 grand.

    If it's the same problem as mine, your mechanic is exactly right. This is a very common problem with some Ford engines. They actually extended the warranty on the repair to 72,000 miles for some 98-02 engines. As I understand it, they used a piece of plastic to keep the timing chain taut (Cam Tensioner). This piece fails, bits of plastic drop into the oil pan, the timing belt slips a little causing various engine problems, and eventually, when the chain gets loose enough it slips a tooth and the engine will eat itself. So if you are having this problem, you need to do something. Either fix it, start saving for a new engine, or dump the truck ASAP.

    My new engine is running great, but unfortunately, a week after getting it back, the OD light flashed three times this morning when I shifted into drive. I'm going to pull the transmission pan off this weekend and see what I can see.

  13. #113
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    Get Out While You Can

    I Just Recently Had Problems With My 2002 Ford Explorer Xls. It Was The Timing Chain Just Like Bpopp Is Saying The Rear Passenger Side Chain. I Pulled The Engine And Went Ahead A Replaced All 4 Chains That The Truck Has And The Oil Pump As Well Because Of All The Plastic It Had In The Oil Pan. I Got All Of That Fixed And Drove It For About A Week And The Truck Made A Awful Noise, Died And Wouldnt Start Back. The Truck Acted Like It Was Flooded Out. I Took The Valve Covers Back Off And Looked And The Rocker Arms Looked To Be Really Loose. So Loose That I Took One Out Without The Special Tool You Have To Have. I Then Noticed That That Thing Has Valve Lash Tentioners That Make The Rocker Arms And Valves Not Move. I Took Them Out And Pulled The Rocker Arms Back Off. I Also Pulled The Heads Off And The Noticed The Cut Marks On The Pistons. That Wasnt Good, I Then Notices That The Valves Were Bent. So I Fixed All Of That And Put It All Back Together And It Runs Great. But I Would Listen To Bpopp When He Says Either Start Saving Your Money And Get A Replacement Engine Or Push It Off A Cliff. If I Would Have Known That It Would Have Took All Of The Money To Replace All Of The Parts That I Had To And All Of The Time In Pulling The Engine To Do It All I Would Have Definatly Bought A Engine Out Of A Wrecked Vehicle

  14. #114
    hoosier car doc Registered Member
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    hoosier car doc

    I Recently Tore Into A Diff. Assy. On One And Found Carrier And Pinion Bearings Failed. Along With That The Bearing Cup On The Driver's Side Had Started Spinning In The Case. The Only Way To Know, If You Have Already Rotated Your Tires In The Noise Elimination Process, Is To Dive Into The Rear End And Explore The Problem. Make Sure While The Driveshaft Is Removed To Check For Binding U-joints

  15. #115
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    2002 Mercury Mountaineer Vibration

    My Mountaineer now intermittently makes a rather loud engine compartment noise and the whole car progressively vibrates. After about 30 seconds, the noise and vibration seem to wear off, and there are no indication lights that anything is wrong. In reading the above threads, maybe it's the timing chain? I already took the car to the dealership when the car started acting up, but of course it would not make the noise when out on test ride, and the dealership did not offer any advice. The service manager himself drove the vehicle and told me basically to let the car break so they could figure out what was wrong with it. I really don't like that idea. What do other readers think?

  16. #116
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    Well, the problem was not really a problem at all. The repair shop found that 3 of the brand new tires installed were the wrong size. Like 245 75R16 instead of 245 70R16. Took it back to the tire shop and they swapped out the 3 wrong tires, noise is gone. While I had it at the repair shop, they recommended changing the rear axle gear oil to synthetic with friction modifier. Our '02 has the 3.55 limited slip rear with the towing package. Remarkably, the rear gear oil changed removed all the slow turning vibration we had! So, really now all we have a problem with is one of the rear climate control motors making a clicking noise. My buddy who is a Ford mechanic said they are pretty easy to replace, so I'll probably tackle that this weekend.

  17. #117
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    That's one unfortunate blow with your dealership. Try to get a second opinion from a trusted mechanic. Maybe he can dish out the real problem for you.


    ____________________
    2005 Toyota Tundra Accesorios - Tundra 4x2 06 Catalog by Toyota Motors

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpopp
    dawnl, my 96,000 mile 99 Ford Explorer (4.0 SOHC) had the same issue for a while (at least a year). It had a rough idle when cold and wasn't running very well. I had it serviced several times during that time and unfortunately they never caught it. A few weeks ago I went out to my truck to start it. It made a pretty awful sound, died, and would not start again. A nearby Ford dealership told me it was a "complete engine failure" and quoted me $4700, before tax, for the replacement. I ended up having another mechanic (who confirmed that my valves were damaged) replace the engine with a low-mileage junkyard engine for around 2 grand.

    If it's the same problem as mine, your mechanic is exactly right. This is a very common problem with some Ford engines. They actually extended the warranty on the repair to 72,000 miles for some 98-02 engines. As I understand it, they used a piece of plastic to keep the timing chain taut (Cam Tensioner). This piece fails, bits of plastic drop into the oil pan, the timing belt slips a little causing various engine problems, and eventually, when the chain gets loose enough it slips a tooth and the engine will eat itself. So if you are having this problem, you need to do something. Either fix it, start saving for a new engine, or dump the truck ASAP.

    My new engine is running great, but unfortunately, a week after getting it back, the OD light flashed three times this morning when I shifted into drive. I'm going to pull the transmission pan off this weekend and see what I can see.

    not anymore. Ford just basically said sorry tough luck to you. Have a 02 with 63000 miles and they want 6500 for engine replacement. just a bunch of crooks. I'll never buy a ford again.

  19. #119
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    I have an 02 Explorer that I am having some issues with. I have a humming sound that only happens when I steer to the right. It really sounds like it is in the front, not the rear. My dh has already replaced the wheel hub assembly, and that did nothing for the humming. Any other ideas on what it could be? I am trying to decide whether to keep and try to repair the problem or get rid of it now.

  20. #120
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    2002 Explorer Window Switch

    I have ready several posts which seem to mirror the problem I have with my 2002 Explorere drivers side window. I am trying to compare symptoms with others and comfirm that it is my switch and not the motor before I purchase the part to install. Anyone else have this issue? Can you give me details? Thank you.

  21. #121
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    Smile Timing chain noise

    [QUOTE=Brouillard1]I have an 02 Explorer with 95KM on it and it is making noise between 2K-3K. The noise is coming from the timing chain. The ford Dealership confirmed that it is the timing chain that's making noise. I don't have any warranty left on this vehicule. I am aware of a Ford service bulletin on that very problem. The dealership advised me not to spend unnecessary money on this, they said that the timing change will last as long as the vehicule but will be noisy. That really took me by surprise and I was expecting to lose the Explorer for a day or two. I was ready to put a fight with Ford to have this fix for free. I asked them to put their words on paper but they refused, of course.
    Should I believe them ? Should I be concern? Will the timing chain last as long as they say ?

  22. #122
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    Smile Timing chain noise

    I too had the timing chain tensioner noise between two and three thousand RPMs. You really do need to change the tensioner as Ford has made a modification to the old ones.This should tell you they know there was a problem with the old ones. The chain gets sloppy at those rpms and creates a noise. If it gets too sloppy it could jump timing or break apart. The revised tensioner corrects the problem . If they tell you to keep driving it,its only because the stand to make more money fixxing a blown engine. Good luck.

  23. #123
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    Cool Ford Explorer 2002 od flashes

    can't anybody make a classaction lawsuit against Ford about this scrap suv they call explorer. I changed all wheel bearing,diff & seals, ac compressor, now my OD flashes.......... i'am at 140 000 klm, bought it at encan H. Gregoire giggest mistake of my life. service is full of it and thank god i had the truck checked for the first 30 days of purchase and kept all records of the problems. But now they don't want to fix cause there is allot . they say " what , you want a new truck"? No ! just one that works good for the money!! how many post should there be before some lawyer lifts his ass and saves us, or are they all driving audie's and BMW'S ? WHAT IS THE USE OF WRITTING ABOUT IT AND NOTHING GETS DONE. We need a Ford Leader in our repeeting quest for justice on repeating issues..... yeh ?

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim01
    I am a first time '02 Explorer owner. When I make sharp turns while on 4X4 auto mode, I hear loud popping and whining noises comming from front-end. Two separate dealers told me that this a normal transfer case noise while the vehicle is in 4X4 mode. I got 30k miles, if this IS A PROBLEM I just want to make sure I get the problem corrected before warranty runs out. I WELCOME YOUR COMMENTS....

    By the way, like most of you out there, I got my noisy rear differential replaced last month.
    I realize Tim's post is over two years old, but folks do realize that the 4x4 mode is for off road, don't they? It sounds like the off-road 4 wheel drive mode is being used on pavement, which means the popping and whining is the differential being trashed.

    On pavement, you want torque to go to the fastest spinning tire. In other words, to the tire on the outside of the turn, since it has to travel further than the inside tire.

    Off road, you want to limit the difference between both tires on an axle. You don't want all of the torque going to the tire that's spinning in the mud - you want it going to the tire that still has traction.

    When you make sharp turns in 4 wheel drive in mud or dirt, it's pretty much guaranteed that the tires will slip, which means tension doesn't build up in the differential. When you make sharp turns on pavement, the tires grip the road and tension builds up in the differential until a) the tire finally slips (most likely case which increases tire wear) or b) the axle breaks (not very likely, but it can happen). Either way, that abused differential isn't going to last very long.

    As to the noise, I've never noticed it on my 2002, but I don't drive it that often. I usually drive a Jeep Wrangler with off-road tires and a soft top (or no top or no top and no doors). My whole scale of 'loud road noise' is skewed.

  25. #125
    Junior Member Registered Member
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1

    Thumbs down <<<<<cost Of Repairs>>>>>

    2002 Eddie Bauer Explorer. 60,000 miles.
    The O/D light flickered and the gears started to grind when they shifted. I went straight to the dealer and they said i needed to overhaul the transmission or replace it completely...$4,500-$5,000. I took it to a private transmission guy and he said he could fix it for $2,800. If they eventually do a recall and I get it fixed buy this third party...will I still get reimbursed?!

    Everyone's posts on here are so similar to my current problem. Please if you have any info for me let me know. What did everyone end up doing and how much did it cost?!?!?!?!!?

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