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  1. #76
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    2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L 4 wheel drive

    I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L engine 4 wheel drive. I've had to replace a few things. I had to get the engine replaced! And that's one expensive engine to be going out after 3 years. We kept the oil changed every 3-5K miles. And the heater doesn't work. They say $800 to fix the heater because they have to take so much apart to get to it. I've already had the rotors and all replaced and a rear axle leak fixed as well. The coolant system had a leak. I've replaced one of the heated seats. Yep. I spent a crapload replacing things just before the engine went out!!!!! And I've heard from other people and mechanics that they've had to replace a few of these engines. But there is no recall as of yet. Maybe not enough bad ones or something. I would advise a very good and lengthy warranty if you are going to purchase one of these!

  2. #77
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    2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee ENGINE replaced among other things

    omg! I wish there was something we could do about this. We take quite a hit after paying so much for a vehicle and then having to replace over half of it, not to mention the main and most expensive parts. I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4 wheel drive with 4.7L engine. I've had the following issues.

    1 - replaced all rotors and brakes
    2 - fixed rear axle leaks
    3 - replaced driver side heated seat
    4 - replaced driver side speaker and now the passenger side is buzzing
    5 - replaced side paneling that was coming lose
    6 - the heater doesn't work and they say that will cost $800 b/c it's hard to get to
    7 - i replaced the engine which costs $5K for a used one with 40K miles/1yr warranty
    (engine died after 3 years at 70K miles - just quit on me in the middle of the highway!)
    8 - coolant system leak had to be fixed
    9 - the pcm has been replaced
    10 - the 10 disk cd player doesn't work
    11 - now with the engine replaced, it is occassionally not starting, then it will start if i wait and try again -- it's in the shop now. i just got a call that it is the start which is not part of the engine and will cost $350! What is the point in owning this thing! I have better luck with old used cars. I'm trying to be patient. I just don't know whether to get rid of it or what.

    IT NEVER ENDS WITH THIS THING! I love the vehicle. It's nice, comfy, looks good, but it's killing me!

  3. #78
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    JGC Limited Electrical Disaster

    I have the same problems managermike has with my 2000 JGC Limited. The battery completely drains every 2 weeks at this point. My brakes are very choppy, and I have the light show. I'm going to have to take it in for a check, but am not looking forward to the bill. Any advice??

    Quote Originally Posted by managermike
    The hood hydraulic does not work. Then today while driving the radio starts freaking out and the odometer display is flashing like there is an electrical problem happening. Now when I start the car the odometer starts flashing and the ABS and Brake lights stay on after the freaky light show. Anyone have similar problems. I must be the exception to the rule with the brakes, but sorry to say it is true.

  4. #79
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    2006 Laredo Problem

    We have a 2 month old 2006 V6 Laredo, 4WD. We have a recurring problem when we are driving at speed or a stop sign/light and the power goes off. No electrical on the instrument panel. Go to D or P and can restart. The first time back to the dealer found nothing and second time said they re flashed a board or replaced the gateway module. This third time I was told the key is very senstive and it might just move over in the acc position and of course then no electircal power. This is rather dangerous and I wonder if others have had this problem.

    Thanks,
    Ralph

  5. #80
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    2005 Laredo 2WD

    Hello, I have the exact same problem as the post above. My car completely powers off/shuts off during stops, crawls, etc etc. Anything dealing with pressing the brake, the car trembles and makes noises and then stops. I have taken it to the dealership and they said they found nothing wrong with the car. I do not want to continue driving a car that shuts off with unknown causes. This has become more frequent than before, leading me to believe the problem is deteriorating, the dealership said to wait 4,000 miles and see if the "unrecognizeable" problem still persists. I am not willing to wait 4,000 miles for a brand new car with 1,200 miles that I bought 2 months ago brand new.

  6. #81
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    Grand Cherokee braking problems

    I have had the same issues with my 1999 Grand Cherokee Laredo; the most bothersome and consistent problems have been brake shudder/shaking and transmission jerks and a loud "clunk" at low speeds. I had the rotors and pads replaced again just 21,000 miles ago and the problem came back again after 6,000 miles. However, I was not even told about the service advisory TSB 05-003-2B - Front Brake pulsation during light to moderate brake application by the 2 local dealerships I went to. They let me waste money replacing the brakes with the old-style parts 2 years after the dealerships were notified of this advisory in 2002!!! When I confronted them with this after going to this site, they said that there was a "recent" advisory and the fix was now available for another $623.38. I have sent an e-mail to Chryler/Jeep about this and have not heard back from them yet, though I will continue to follow up. My real question is this: has anyone performed the fix with the "redesigned" calipers and pads (and new rotors) and does this actually solve the problem?

  7. #82
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    Cool Ne problem with the JGC

    Hi ever one...

    My 96 JGC just die on me. I was driving at 70 miles per hour and suddenly all gauges and the engine went dead...Radio and accesories work fine...I stopped and tried to start the engine again but, after crancking a few times I gave up. Wait for the tow truck and now I have no car...

    Any Ideas...!!!????

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyGuy01
    This is a response to my previous write-up

    I ordered my new regulator from power up auto. http://www.powerupauto.com/ for 40+ dollars. I checked the site today and the price has already gone up to 90$. The price is still not too bad and I got it within a few days.I recommend that you send a email to them to confirm you are ordering the right one for your year vehicle.

    INSTRUCTIONS:
    It is easy to remove once you figure it out or have instructions...Remember, don’t try to use your window while it’s broke or you will burn up the electric motor. I taped the window in the up position until I got my new regulator.

    1. Remove the door panel (3 screws: one in armrest and one near rearview mirror and last one is a hex head located in the door handle well)

    2. Pop door panel off easily using a wide flat tip screw driver or something that’s plastic, thin and wide to prevent scratching… start popping it off at the bottom of the door in a corner….there are a bunch of plastic clips holding it on. Don't worry if a couple of them break you can order a few new ones for a couple bucks... No problem.

    3. Once you get the panel popped out some, you need to disconnect the power window cable, power mirror cable, and door and lock controls so you can completely remove the panel. (cables have a little clip on the back of them, squeeze it to unlock and remove) (Door and lock metal rods have a plastic retainer, gently turn them and then easily pull out of their respective holes)

    4. Remove the speaker (4 screws and unplug connector)

    5. Remove the plastic cover (I had a black plastic cover under the door panel and it was attached with some black rubber like glue. The glue is none drying so if you remove it carefully, a little at a time it will stay on the plastic and you can re use it.

    6. Where the window comes through the top of the door or ...the part that your arm rests on if you hang your arm out the open window....there are 2 rubber seals that the window comes up between when it’s raised. Remove the inner one (towards the inside of the car) you can pry it up and it will pop out. Be sure to save the 2 sponge looking things that are under each end if your model has them.

    7. Take out the 2 clips that hold the window to the regulator. You will have to reach inside the door and pull them out, one on the left and right...no problem.

    8. Window removal: Once you have removed the clips holding the window to the regulator you have to gently work the two window “nipples” out of the regulator holes. Once you have it up a little past the regulator window holding piece…turn the window so that the rear of it is up and comes out first….then work it upwards to remove it from the door. It should come out easily, if not take a break because you don’t want to buy glass too.

    9. Unplug the power window cable from the window motor (located in the center of the door)

    10. Remove screws that hold the regulator and the window motor to the inside of the door (I think there were 4 regulator screws and 3 holding the motor, they are different sizes) they are the only screws left.

    11. Push the window motor cable inside the door, then tilt the entire unit from it’s up and down position to a horizontal left-right position. I then patiently fed it through the hole at the bottom right side of the door…under the hole where the speaker used to be.

    12. Once out remove 2 screws? (I can’t remember but you will see) to remove the window motor from the regulator. Clean off the surface of the window motor and attach it to the new regulator. If you buy the regulator from http://www.powerupauto.com/Jeep1.html like I did, it comes with basic instruction on how to connect the motor to the regulator.

    Install in reverse.
    ArmyGuy01 - Great directions! I am so glad I found this forum. My passenger side window regulator went out last week (2001 GC). Not knowing what to do, I called the dealership and they quoted me 402 bucks! Ridiculous! The guy at the dealership couldnt even tell me if the motor was included with the regulator. I then began researching it online and found this forum. I ordered the part from the place you suggested...powerupauto...Great place, great service, and great price! The guy Scott there should really be commended! Anyway, Scott shipped my part last Thursday and I received it this past tuesday (have to remember it was a holiday monday). I printed out these directions you have provided here and the project was a breeze! It took me only 1.5 hours to do it by myself. Thanks again for posting such great advice and directions ArmyGuy!
    Last edited by SAEAPP; 06-01-2006 at 11:26.

  9. #84
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    JGC Window Regulator

    We have an 04 JGC with 40K miles. Our D/S front window regulator broke while the Jeep was parked. The "5 star" dealership quoted me at $445 plus tax to fix the problem. I did get the service guy to admit that they see an "unusually high" number of window regulator problems in the Grand. I called Jeep, complained and moaned. They contacted the dealership and got the price reduced to $100. Worth trying.

  10. #85
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    2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee is a LEMON

    I feel your pain. I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee that I have had recurring problems with the Rotors. I have had them turned twice, and replaced the rotors once, and they need replacing again. It has only 63,000 miles on it. My other recurring problem is with the window regulators. I've replaced 3 out of 4 now. Each time it was $400. When I spoke with the service manager at the dealership and explained the problems, he would not acknowledge either recurring problem. Told me I was just "lucky." Yeah, lucky enough to be sold a lemon. I took my Jeep to Big 10 Tires yesterday to have them do the rotors...fed up with giving the dealership all my money. They wouldn't touch the brakes until I spoke with the dealership and found out if my Grand Cherokee fell under some bulletin that came out that said they used the wrong size calipers on some models and years and that it would cause the rotors to warp prematurely. There is a kit being sold for about $500 to fix the problem...again, not a freebie to their problem...more money. I left there very upset I found this out from a car repair place and not from my dealer after having discussed the problem with him personally. I called the dealer and, I guess he is still looking it up, as he never called me back. Can't wait to dump this car. What a disappointment. 41 years old, this was my first new car in my entire life. What a joke? I also wrote to the Jeep people...haven't heard anything back.

  11. #86
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    Angry The Death Wobble

    I have a 95 jeep gc and I to have had the same brake, wobble , rotor problems as everyone has. We have changed the track arm, tie rod ends. And still get the death wobble, now I'm being told that it could be the control arm bushings. There seems to be some play in that. Should I spend another 500$ to fix this or will it fix it at all. Any Help PLEASE.

  12. #87
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    Update on my brake problem...

    After a stupid response from Daimler Chrsyler saying it was the way my wife drives and brakes, I decided to have the "factory-recommended fix" for $623.38 that I mentioned in my earlier post. I can say that the new calipers are a VERY different design from the originals on my 1999 GC Laredo. This did resolve the issue (just as it did when I replaced rotors last time), so I'm hoping that the addition of the new style calipers will resolve the problem for longer than 6,000 miles (there is a 1 year warranty by Jeep on my new parts)...will let everyone know how it turns out.

  13. #88
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    Update on my brake problem...

    After a stupid response from Daimler Chrsyler saying it was the way my wife drives and brakes, I decided to have the "factory-recommended fix" for $623.38 that I mentioned in my earlier post. I can say that the new calipers are a VERY different design from the originals on my 1999 GC Laredo. This did resolve the issue (just as it did when I replaced rotors last time), so I'm hoping that the addition of the new style calipers will resolve the problem for longer than 6,000 miles (there is a 1 year warranty by Jeep on my new parts)...will let everyone know how it turns out.

  14. #89
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    2002 Cherokee window problem

    I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, at 15,000 miles the brakes and rotors had to be replaced, now at 40,000 the drivers side window just fell into the door, seems like I am seeing alot of that going around, I was quoted 355 dollars to replace the motor. I have owned alot of chrysler vehicles and it seems the Cherokee always has brake problems, I do not pull anything with this vehicle and we drive it very carefully. I payed alot for this vehicle, when I asked the salesperson why it costs so much, the answer was "it holds its value because its a Jeep" , try to get that same answer when you try to trade it in and they bad mouth the rough ride.

  15. #90
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    98 JGC Problem

    Quote Originally Posted by managermike
    I have a 2000 JGC that I bought new. It now has about 74k miles on it. v6. I had the shocks done all the way around at 30k. The driver elec door lock at some point and that's about it. The rear driver door elec lock needs to be done right now. I brought it in at about 60k to look at the brakes because I was getting worried I have never had them done. They said they are worn about half way and to check them again about now. No vibrations, ever so slight engine ping for a long time. The hood hydraulic does not work. Then today while driving the radio starts freaking out and the odometer display is flashing like there is an electrical problem happening. Now when I start the car the odometer starts flashing and the ABS and Brake lights stay on after the freaky light show. Anyone have similar problems. I must be the exception to the rule with the brakes, but sorry to say it is true.

    I'm also having a problem with my windows not working and the lights flashing also my winshield wipers won't work and the sound of the doors opening/closing...anyone having similar problems or can tell me what they think might be going on....
    managermike...I'd like to hear from you...

  16. #91
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    2002 Grand Cherokee Transmission headache

    Quote Originally Posted by RF43
    Hello Everyone, I am new to this forum. I live in Central New Jersey, and after reading many of the posted comments regarding this vehicle, all I can say is I wish I knew then what I know now. I purchased a 2002 JGC new, with a factory incentive 36k Bumper/Bumper -100k Drivetrain warranty. (at the time, the inclusion of this warranty was a major determining factor for purchase.) While I havn't experienced some of the seemingly more common ailments, it has had it's problems. A majority of my driving is highway, no offroad usage. Currently have 94k on said Vehicle.
    Here's the list:

    Brakes- 30k, it warped a set of front rotors. Dealer said it would cost around 1500.00 to fix the front (!) brakes, which included New rotors, new pads, new bearings, new calipers and get this- NEW SPINDLES- what a deal- Said thanks but no thanks. Took Vehicle to a local service station, had the rotors trued for a cost of 75.00 and was able to log an additional 18k on the same brakes (Keep in mind- highway driving). At which point I replaced the front brakes and installed aftermarket rotors. Those rotors are still going strong, even after another brake job and truing at 85k. Bottom line- Chrysler, along with other car manufacturers are keeping costs down by using cheaper materials.

    Things that go "Bump": At around 32k, I noticed what seemed to be a delay in shifting from 2nd to first gear on a downshift. Most often it would occur stopping for a traffic light or stop sign. I would sometimes happen on the slowdown, other times it would happen at point of acceleration. The sensation is one of being gently bumped from behind, or a solid clunk. Took it to the dealer I bought the vehicle from and they tried to fix the problem by replacing a governor sensor- literally one trip around the block and back to the shop it went. The service manager sent a mechaninc with me to verify the occurence, which he did. Was told to bring it back the following Monday, which I did. At that point, the service manager told me that they had already fixed it once and wern't going to waste any more of their time on it- I was livid, these guys are a small Dealership two blocks from my Business. A phone call to Chrysler resulted in a recommendation to one of their 5 star service centers, I was told since the local shop wasn't rated, not to go there anymore. ( I have a feeling this is more about Corporate pressuring the small dealers than about getting better service, but I played along). Went to their recommended center (same one that offered the bargain on the brakes) and they identified a problem and tried to fix it. This lasted for about 25 miles before it had to go back for the same issue. Again, they tried to fix it by changing a different part. Same result- less than a hundred miles later ti was back though not as pronounced. Then at around 36k miles, I started hearing noises, grinding and moaning sounds coming from the central area of the vehicle. Uh oh -I thought maybe the torque converter had gone bad and was also the culprit for the rough shifting. Into the shop it goes. Test drive the Mechanic "ouldn't hear" what I was hearing. When he finally figured out I wasn't going away he acknowledged he heard "some sounds" and would have them checked out. This time around they claimed to have replaced a bearing in the transfer case. At first he accused me of installing the wrong fluid. When I informed them that the fluid in the case was whatever Chrysler had put in atthe factory, he then said someone must have tampered with it. I then asked for a technical printout showing the chemical analysis breakdown. He said he couldn't provide that and that the repair would be warrantied. Bump in shifting still there, but that sound was gone. Decided to live with the transmission shifting problem for a while.

    Leaks: At about 65 k, both rear axle seals had let go. Gear Oil was everwhere, ruined the rear disc brakes and parking brake assemblies. Chrysler warrantied the Seals, but refused to warranty the damage caused to the brakes. net net- 450 worth of Service center repairs out of pocket on a warranty related issue. Noted problem with transmission, said they couldn't find anything.

    93k- Start losing antifreeze, but have no visible leaks and the oil doesn't seem to have the normal telltale signs of coolant (Foamy milkshake appearance), except that there seemed to be a little condensation on the oil filler cap. 1300 miles later, my oil pressure starts acting up. Went from 50 psi cold/ 40 cruising/ idle to 40-50 cold, 35 crusing and around 10 at idle, in gear or out. On hot start ups, sometimes the check guage light would stay on- ru roh, something is amiss. Took to my friends shop and put a mechanical guage on it to verify the numbers. Nope, Something wrong with the motor. He calls the local dealer, and the shop advised him that the 6 cyl engine has a tendency to develop a cracked head, right below the valve cover. Shop said this caused coolant to leech into the oil and wipe out the camshaft bearings and or main bearings, resulting in lower than normal oil pressure, or if not caught in time- motor failure. Said it should be covered under drivetrain warranty. SOO- I take it to the 5 star center again. Service manager didn't want to know from Adam about what some other dealer said, insisted that his guys would figure it out and let me know how they would handle it. I also mentioned the transmission problem again. Result- Yes, it has a cracked head. Yes, Chrysler will authorize the replacement of the head assembly. Said he had 2 techs test drive the vehicle and they couldn't find anything abnormal with the shifting. When I queried about possible bearing failure due to the low oil pressure, at first he said that 10lbs was normal for that engine. When I insisted that it wasn't, he then stated that it was considered "acceptable". When I told him it is an early sign of engine failure resulting from bearing clearances opening up, he said there is no way to know that, and there is no way to know that the coolant leak caused the problem. I then told him that it is a known fact that the heads have a tendency to crack and leak fluid into the oil, causing bearing failure (as per comments from another Jeep center) all he said was Chrysler will not warranty the replacement of the motor. He again insisted 3-5 lbs of pressure at Idle is sufficient, 10 in gear with foot on brake being normal for this motor. Says can't fix what they don't find with regard to the transmission. (it's now jolting instead of bumping, but I guess this is also considered"Normal")This was yesterday and today. I have written another letter to Chrysler, but I honestly do not expect anything to come of it other than what has already been told to me by the dealer. My dealings with Chrysler corporate service have left me to think they care more about servicing their shareholders and bottom line more than their customers. I apologize for the longwinded post, but I tried to be thorough so that anyone else having problems might also benefit to some degree. Bottom line, I wouldn't purchase another of these vehicles, and I certainly do not recommend the purchase of a used one. I will be trading mine in on a new something or other ASAP. Are there any class action suits being filed wrt these vehicles, if so- who to contact and the reasons for suit would be appreciated. Like I said, I feel fortunate to have logged a fair amount of mileage with relatively few unresolved incidents, but my luck can't old out forever. if anyone is interested in the specific dealership info, please pm for that.

    Hey, I would like to know if you have any updates on your transmission issues. The dealerships and mechanics I have taken my car to cannot seem to find anything really wrong, but they say it is just an annoyance. My car seems to be doing the same thing as yours...when I stop there is a jerk when downshifting, and there is hesitation when switching into gears when I accelerate from a stopping point. Tonight, I was driving down the road and all of the sudden my car jerked and when I accelerated, the transmission seemed to have slipping and would not switch into third(?) gear. When I stopped and put it in park, then back to drive, it was normal but now my engine light is on. Have you had similar problems? Do you know if the 100k drivetrain warranty applies to ALL 2002 JGC's? I only have 74K on mine, but I have had many of the same problems as other JGC owners. Please let me know if this sounds like your transmission problem, and any advice would be helpful!!

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by shawn99JGC
    I have a 99 JGC and for the last year whenever i brake and only when i brake do i get this problem. the frontend vibrates and the steering wheel also vibrates but no pulsating in the brake pedal. I have changed the front rotors and pads twice and the rear rotors and pads once, and everytime it does absolutely nothing. I had a tierod that was a little loose and also changed that, it did nothing. But when i tell people the problem they swear to me its the rotors. Please help? the rest of the frontend feels very tight. any clues would help
    Hi Shawn,
    I also have a 99JGC and have had rotor problems. From what I hear, Jeep knows about this problem and won't address it. My ex-boyfriend is a mechanic and has worked on numerous things on my Jeep. I just changed my rotors for the 4th time in 4 years last weekend. I too put brand new rotors on the front and the back. I replaced the front pads about 6 months ago and just did the back.
    From the symptoms you are describing I too believe it is your rotors. Are you always putting new rotors on or turned rotors? Also, what kind of pads did you put on? I used semi-metallic pads - ceramic is the best, but not necessary.
    Do you allow enough room for breaking - the problem with this year is that Jeep did not make the breaks big enough to hold the weight of the vehicle and it does not sit high enough to get lots of air to cool the breaks off, therefore they wear out.
    I don't understand how you say that nothing has changed when you change them - who are you taking your Jeep to? If you get it fixed again, I would ask to see the OLD rotors and pads to ensure that they are not turning them or simply not doing anything and charging you for the work.

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockvalley4
    I have had nothing but trouble with the brakes on my 1999 jeep grand cherokee loredo also. It is a shame because I love everything else about my jeep. I have had to have the rotors replaced twice and shaved once and I don't even have 40 thousand miles on it yet. I only drive it on the road. When I am doing about 50mph and come to a stop light and go on the brakes the steering wheel shakes and vibrates all over the place. This last time the whole jeep vibrates. It is pretty scary, it makes you wonder if your brakes are going to give out. I take it in for repair and I am always told the rotors are warped. I don't know anyone else with disc brakes on other vehicles going through this. Why do they keep warping out? Is it because the rotors are made cheaply or is it a design problem, or are the garages doing temporary repairs instead of fixing it right so that I have to keep coming back? I want to keep my jeep until it costs more to repair it than it is worth (that is what I usualy do with any vehicle I buy) but if this keeps happening with the rotors I may wind up trading it in for something else.
    Hi,
    I repllied to Shawn's email too, but I have a 99 JGC also. I have had many problems with my Jeep. My ex-boyfriend works on my Jeep all the time for me - he is a mechanic. Jeep knows about the problem, but won't fix this. The problem is that the weight of the vehichle is to heavy for the small breaks they put on, plus the breaks don't sit up enough to get a lot of air to cool them off. Getting Semi-Metallic pads will help. The other problem I have found is the wheel bearings and carrier bearings tend to go bad. Jeep made the car very Shi**y. They set the pinion dept too tight, put crapy bolts on, not big enough breaks and not the greatest axel's. Just so you know if you have problems - you have a Dana 30 front and a Dana 35 rear. I suggest you either learn how to change your own or find a mechanic friend - it is much cheaper - about $65 for the front rotors and about $80 for the rear.

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by ignagonza
    Hi ever one...

    My 96 JGC just die on me. I was driving at 70 miles per hour and suddenly all gauges and the engine went dead...Radio and accesories work fine...I stopped and tried to start the engine again but, after crancking a few times I gave up. Wait for the tow truck and now I have no car...

    Any Ideas...!!!????
    Sounds like you need a new engine.....

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88cherokee
    I recently purchased a 1996 4WD Laredo . A couple days later my wife was driving it, and the front end started to shake uncontrollably . It shakes so bad the steering wheel also shakes. As my wife put it..."it almost feels like the tire is wobbling and going to fall off." It didn't do it again for about 1 week. Then it happened to me. It happened while I was applying the brake (same with my wife). The shaking does not stop after I release the brake. It normally lasts for about 10-15 seconds, then stops. It seems to be happening only under 40 mph. It doesn't happen all the time either. I'm clueless as to what it is, and I'm not quite ready to take it back to the dealership. I have called them and informed them about the problem, but they didn't know what the problem was either.
    I've done several visuals of the tires, axle, and such, but can't find anything out of place. Can Anyone Help Me?!

    Thanks,
    1996LaredoGuy

    -------

    That is a common problem that they even have a name for it (Death wobble). It is in your suspension or brakes. Mine was a bad brake caliper 18.00 at advanced auto. I would also check your track bar. This can be ordered at quadratec.com for about 60.00. These are the most common problems. If they are not the problem make sure you suspension is not lose.
    No, it's your stabiliser bar! I had the same problem... and it's very dangerous because it can wobble your wheels right off.

  21. #96
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    2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport

    93k- Start losing antifreeze, but have no visible leaks and the oil doesn't seem to have the normal telltale signs of coolant (Foamy milkshake appearance), except that there seemed to be a little condensation on the oil filler cap. 1300 miles later, my oil pressure starts acting up. Went from 50 psi cold/ 40 cruising/ idle to 40-50 cold, 35 crusing and around 10 at idle, in gear or out. On hot start ups, sometimes the check guage light would stay on- ru roh, something is amiss. Took to my friends shop and put a mechanical guage on it to verify the numbers. Nope, Something wrong with the motor. He calls the local dealer, and the shop advised him that the 6 cyl engine has a tendency to develop a cracked head, right below the valve cover. Shop said this caused coolant to leech into the oil and wipe out the camshaft bearings and or main bearings, resulting in lower than normal oil pressure, or if not caught in time- motor failure. Said it should be covered under drivetrain warranty. SOO- I take it to the 5 star center again. Service manager didn't want to know from Adam about what some other dealer said, insisted that his guys would figure it out and let me know how they would handle it. I also mentioned the transmission problem again. Result- Yes, it has a cracked head. Yes, Chrysler will authorize the replacement of the head assembly. Said he had 2 techs test drive the vehicle and they couldn't find anything abnormal with the shifting. When I queried about possible bearing failure due to the low oil pressure, at first he said that 10lbs was normal for that engine. When I insisted that it wasn't, he then stated that it was considered "acceptable". When I told him it is an early sign of engine failure resulting from bearing clearances opening up, he said there is no way to know that, and there is no way to know that the coolant leak caused the problem. I then told him that it is a known fact that the heads have a tendency to crack and leak fluid into the oil, causing bearing failure (as per comments from another Jeep center) all he said was Chrysler will not warranty the replacement of the motor. He again insisted 3-5 lbs of pressure at Idle is sufficient, 10 in gear with foot on brake being normal for this motor. Says can't fix what they don't find with regard to the transmission. (it's now jolting instead of bumping, but I guess this is also considered"Normal")This was yesterday and today. I have written another letter to Chrysler, but I honestly do not expect anything to come of it other than what has already been told to me by the dealer. My dealings with Chrysler corporate service have left me to think they care more about servicing their shareholders and bottom line more than their customers. I apologize for the longwinded post, but I tried to be thorough so that anyone else having problems might also benefit to some degree. Bottom line, I wouldn't purchase another of these vehicles, and I certainly do not recommend the purchase of a used one. I will be trading mine in on a new something or other ASAP. Are there any class action suits being filed wrt these vehicles, if so- who to contact and the reasons for suit would be appreciated. Like I said, I feel fortunate to have logged a fair amount of mileage with relatively few unresolved incidents, but my luck can't old out forever. if anyone is interested in the specific dealership info, please pm for that.

    I purchased my Cherokee at 32,000 miles. It was certified pre owned vehicle with a 80,000/8 year warranty. Right now it has 70,000 miles on it and a cracked head. I also started losing oil pressure, but couldn't see any signs of water in the oil. I took it into the dealer and Chrysler has denied my warranty. The claim there was rust in the cooling system. Is that my fault? Hell no. When I bought this vehicle, all fluids were supposed to be changed. The recommended coolant change for this vehicle is 75,000 after the first 36 month change, which should have been done by chrysler dealership. The dealership took my motor apart and then denied my warrantly based upon oil change maintenance schedule. Once I proved the oil had been changed at regular intervals, Chrysler called and denied the warranty based upon rust in the cooling system. I have been hung up on by Chrysler customer service and overall treated like dog crap. My state, Kentucky, does provide customer arbitration. I have not filed for arbitration yet, but am about to do so. Has anyone has any experience with this? I recommend that no one ever by a Chrysler vehicle. It's like they got my money and could care less about repeat customers. I'm close to picketing outside the dealership, so customers will go elsewhere. Lets see how much they like that.

  22. #97
    Junior Member Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    1

    2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Problems

    I just don't understand how things brake down right after the warranty expires. My 2001 JGC has had problems with the wobble in the front when braking and forget these losey power windows. I have paid to fix them 3 TIMES already and just had another one brake today. I just ordered the regulator thanks to a post on this site and I will install the part myself. No more dealing with dealer's inflated prices.

  23. #98
    Junior Member Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    2

    2001 Grand Cherokee

    Hello to all,
    I thought I was the only one having similar problems with their Jeep Grand Cherokee. I had to replace my brakes, rotors and pads twice within a years time, appromixately 5,000 miles apart. It would seem to me that with normal drivingm brakes should last at least 20 to 30 thousand miles. The third time I took my jeep to the dealer, I was quoted about 800 dollars because they told me I needed brakes all the way around, rotors and pads. The next day, I took my jeep to Midas.....$89 dollars later I was out the door. What a rip-off from Chrysler-Jeep if I had taken it there. I've become extremely suspicious of Jeep dealers at this point. I also had a passenger side window fail, just after my warranty expired(75,000 extended). How convenient. I bit the bullet on this one because I was about to go on a cross-country trip and had to have my window repaired. It was apparently what they call the regulater. The window basically fell off the track. Now I'm wondering if they just put it back on the track with the old parts or replaced everything. The invoice didn't specify. Don't get me wrong though, because I still love my jeep. I suspect it's the quality of original workmanship and the dealers are at fault. Makes you wonder why people don't buy American any longer. I quest Detroit still hasn't gotton it yet. Mayve someday.

    Keith

  24. #99
    Junior Member Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    2

    Angry

    I hear you talkin. These are exactly the symptoms for my 2001 GC. I'll be running my Jeep into the ground and when it dies that's it. I'm going foreign. I hate to say it......

  25. #100
    Junior Member Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1

    2002 Jgc

    My Jeep is a 2002 with 67,000miles on it. I have had to replace the radio. The driver front window. The back tail gate motor stopped working. The air shocks to hold the hood open stopped working and now I'm having major electrical problems. When I'm driving down the road the gages start going crazy and the lights start flashing. Then when I stopped my car yesterday me and my two girls got stranded. Now I feel real unsafe driving this car.I called to see if there was any recall on this and they told me no not on my jeep I would be responsible for it. I don't think that is fair. That is not normal wear and tare for an auto to do that. Anything anyone can suggest this might be? My lights come on as well the brakes and other lights when this happens.

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