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  1. #101
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    Starting to wonder if it should be called Heep

    Wife and I got a 2004 GC brand new. At 9,000 miles, rotors were warped to hell. Here I am at 14,200 and the rotors are gone again. Called DC, and was told to have the local dealer do the Diag, and call them with results, and maybe they would cover part of the repairs. Looking today (on page 1 of this forum), I found that there is a class-action lawsuit for the 99-04 GC's regarding the front brakes. Called the lawyer - paperwork to go out soon, settlement most likely to come in October. For 03/04, they may only cover up to 30k miles, but 99-02 maybe more.

    So far, outside thermometer is screwy (only reads accurately when it wants to), brakes gone x2, rough idle at a stop after 20 seconds, had to add antifreeze (guess the dealer sold it w/ low fluid) and an occasional jerk when releasing the brakes after a stop.

    For those with tranny issues, I work in a trans shop. The 96-up are not the best trannies ever built. The governor solenoid/transducers do go occasionally, but if you still get gov. pressure codes after doing the solenoid/transducer, check the oxygen sensor wiring. Somehow, Chrysler wired these two together. If you have the 99-01 V8, make sure the dealer reflashes your computer - I think they did on the 01's already, but if they didn't, you may be missing your top gear.

  2. #102
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    I have a 2001 Jeep and I too have the front end wobble problems, as well as the fact that sometimes my tail lights will not turn off. My keys are not even in the ignition and my tail lights will continue to stay on. I was wondering if anyone else has this problem?

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by justnikki18
    I have a 2001 Jeep and I too have the front end wobble problems, as well as the fact that sometimes my tail lights will not turn off. My keys are not even in the ignition and my tail lights will continue to stay on. I was wondering if anyone else has this problem?
    For how long do the lights stay on? Your alarm system could be causing that...

  4. #104
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    If he is looking for plantiffs, how do we get in touch with him? I would love for Chrysler to do something for ALL of us that have had prolbems.


    Quote Originally Posted by rubenc
    Per Autoblog 11/17/2004:
    "Details are sketchy but it seems a lawyer in the Kansas City area is looking for plantiffs in a class action lawsuit against Jeep for the faulty brakes found in the 1999-2004 Grand Cherokee. My significant other leases a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee and we're on our second trip to the dealer to fix the front brakes. The last time they said it was warped rotors. From message boards I've read we're not the only ones with this problem and this lawsuit might indeed get more folks onboard."



    http://autoblog.com/entry/0771224811266534/

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tracey
    If he is looking for plantiffs, how do we get in touch with him? I would love for Chrysler to do something for ALL of us that have had prolbems.
    According to the lawyer in the posted link, if you are in the class by virtue of owning the vehicle, you will be mailed paperwork. I'm not sure if this includes used Jeeps, but give them a call - supposedly this is to be in place by October.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajt*
    I am having a problem with my 2000 Laredo. It has problems starting and i have to crank the engine two or three times before it will start. I also have a problem with the power locks and windows. Any suggestions?
    I had the same problems and had the fuel pump replaced all because a 15 cents rubber gasket. The problem is because this gasket, air goes into the fuel line which causes the fuel to drain back to the gas tank, this is why you have to crank the engine multiple times until you have fuel to start the car. It is amazing that one has to get a new fuel pump which cost over 300 Dollars just because a 15 cebt rubber gasket has failed. This is American Technology !!!!

  7. #107
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    Unhappy So why doesn't Chrysler stand behind their product ?

    Hello all.

    I found this site while researching to see if anyone else is having the same Jeep problems I am. Needless to say - I wasn't surprised by the postings here.

    For all of the "Jeep" reputation - and all of the common problems their vehicle seems to have , why don't they just fix the issues ? Other car makers do - they send out notices when there is a problem and sometimes even BEFORE there is a lawsuit......
    This is our 2nd Jeep product. Our 1st was a Cherokee - LOVED it ! ( Of course , it was a lease so we didn't have it very long, or had very many miles on it.)

    We now are in our 4th year owning a 2002 GC Laredo. I only have 39,000 miles on it, so it's not driven a lot or has ever been "off - roaded".

    I found out my brakes/ rotors etc... were VERY bad back in year 2 when I only had @14,000 miles on it. I say 'found out' because the guys at my local Goodyear noticed them while changing out one of my tires. I had no warning that they were going bad, much less that it was down to the rotors. No noise, no problems. They told me that the object that engages when brakes are bad that "alerts" you/ makes a noise/whateve r was defective and had never engaged. GoodYear replaced everything that needed it relatively cheap and I haven't had a problem since...( at least that I know about,LOL....)

    I have 2 issues now - the transmission and lights. Transmission started acting up in the city. Fine on the "highway" , but in town it would die when I came to a complete stop and sounded like a manual transmission that was in the wrong gear. Yesterday, the OBDS light came on the same time as the O/D Off light. Today there is no Reverse. We have the 7/ 70,000 powertrain? warranty , but the service manager said it probably won't cover whatever is wrong - either way it's going in tommorrow, so if anyone has any advice - I'd take it.

    The lights ? The lights make me want to cry.....The rear ones are a pain in the ***.
    Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Right now the rear lights only work when the headlights are off. Before, the Tailgate light and the Right rear light worked while the Left was out - until you put the brakes on and then the Right and Tailgate went out and the Left would come on. Yes, it has been to the dealership who can't explain it and bulbs and fuses have been repeatedly replaced.

    A few months back ? The engine fan assembly broke off into pieces. We didn't know that was what happened. We started the engine and heard a large 'bump'. My husband opened the hood and checked things out , but didn't see anything wrong. Few days later the radiator blew up in the BK Drive thru.... It had been damaged by the pieces of the broken fan that flew off inside . We live on an Army post and the nearby auto skills center fixed it and the manager said he had 4 other Jeeps in at that same time with the same problem...Called Jeep and ,of course, THEY know nothing about a problem like that.....

    You know ? It doesn't get great gas mileage, these days, but we bought it because we wanted a safe, reliable car. My husband deploys frequently and we have 6 yr old twins. He wanted the peace of mind that came with an automobile with a good reputation. Whoever called it a "Heep" had it right. Too bad all of the other reputable auto reviews don't include the links to forums like this. We probably wouldn't have bought this car..

    Moving to Germany soon and planning to buy the Volvo SUV.............

  8. #108
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    same problem with window

    Quote Originally Posted by ssquick454
    i have an 01 GC and it now has 80,000 miles. the passenger window regulator broke, so i took it out. i found a place on the internet called Parts Direct and they sell the part for $109.00 delivered. i also took out the other three regulators reinforced the plastic cable retainer so they will not break in the future. also what happens, is the slide that the window rides up and down on loses it's lubrication, so i added lube. i replaced the rotors once and the transmission rebuilt under warranty. i am a master auto tech and this suv has been okay considering what i have put it thru................ talk 2 me
    Just yesterday as I was coming home from work my window was acting funny....I put the window down and it just jerked then went all the way down....now by all the reviews I read it seems like I have the same problem also and its too weird that everyone has the same problems but chrysler doesn't want to recognize the problem. Anyways i would like to know how to fix it myself so If you can help me please do thank you. my email address is nestea2001@hotmail.com

  9. #109
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    overdrive turns off in Jeep GC

    I have 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee that suddenly shifts the overdrive off after driving at highway speed for about an hour. This in turn overheats the transmission (which I have recently had the fluid changed). If I drive less than 55 mph then this doesn't happen. When the overdrive shifts off and I push the button on the gear shift it won't shut off. Any thoughts?

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammrsigpi
    For how long do the lights stay on? Your alarm system could be causing that...

    The longest they remained on was 24 hours. I don't have an alarm... It's starting to kill my battery, Im constantly having to get it jumped.

  11. #111
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    Instructions for Window regulator installation

    Quote Originally Posted by SAEAPP
    ArmyGuy01 - Great directions! I am so glad I found this forum. My passenger side window regulator went out last week (2001 GC). Not knowing what to do, I called the dealership and they quoted me 402 bucks! Ridiculous! The guy at the dealership couldnt even tell me if the motor was included with the regulator. I then began researching it online and found this forum. I ordered the part from the place you suggested...powerupauto...Great place, great service, and great price! The guy Scott there should really be commended! Anyway, Scott shipped my part last Thursday and I received it this past tuesday (have to remember it was a holiday monday). I printed out these directions you have provided here and the project was a breeze! It took me only 1.5 hours to do it by myself. Thanks again for posting such great advice and directions ArmyGuy!
    I just wanted to say THANKS to ArmyGuy01 also, for the below instructions on installing the window regulator. Also thanks to you for reposting them. The only difference is that I bought the regulator and motor for $90.00 + $10 for shipping at www.monsterautoparts.com. The whole process took me 45 minutes. I can't wait to stop by the dealership that quoted me between $450-$500 to replace, of which $225 was just for the part.


    Thanks again!!!

    -




    Originally Posted by ArmyGuy01
    This is a response to my previous write-up

    I ordered my new regulator from power up auto. http://www.powerupauto.com/ for 40+ dollars. I checked the site today and the price has already gone up to 90$. The price is still not too bad and I got it within a few days.I recommend that you send a email to them to confirm you are ordering the right one for your year vehicle.

    INSTRUCTIONS:
    It is easy to remove once you figure it out or have instructions...Remember, don’t try to use your window while it’s broke or you will burn up the electric motor. I taped the window in the up position until I got my new regulator.

    1. Remove the door panel (3 screws: one in armrest and one near rearview mirror and last one is a hex head located in the door handle well)

    2. Pop door panel off easily using a wide flat tip screw driver or something that’s plastic, thin and wide to prevent scratching… start popping it off at the bottom of the door in a corner….there are a bunch of plastic clips holding it on. Don't worry if a couple of them break you can order a few new ones for a couple bucks... No problem.

    3. Once you get the panel popped out some, you need to disconnect the power window cable, power mirror cable, and door and lock controls so you can completely remove the panel. (cables have a little clip on the back of them, squeeze it to unlock and remove) (Door and lock metal rods have a plastic retainer, gently turn them and then easily pull out of their respective holes)

    4. Remove the speaker (4 screws and unplug connector)

    5. Remove the plastic cover (I had a black plastic cover under the door panel and it was attached with some black rubber like glue. The glue is none drying so if you remove it carefully, a little at a time it will stay on the plastic and you can re use it.

    6. Where the window comes through the top of the door or ...the part that your arm rests on if you hang your arm out the open window....there are 2 rubber seals that the window comes up between when it’s raised. Remove the inner one (towards the inside of the car) you can pry it up and it will pop out. Be sure to save the 2 sponge looking things that are under each end if your model has them.

    7. Take out the 2 clips that hold the window to the regulator. You will have to reach inside the door and pull them out, one on the left and right...no problem.

    8. Window removal: Once you have removed the clips holding the window to the regulator you have to gently work the two window “nipples” out of the regulator holes. Once you have it up a little past the regulator window holding piece…turn the window so that the rear of it is up and comes out first….then work it upwards to remove it from the door. It should come out easily, if not take a break because you don’t want to buy glass too.

    9. Unplug the power window cable from the window motor (located in the center of the door)

    10. Remove screws that hold the regulator and the window motor to the inside of the door (I think there were 4 regulator screws and 3 holding the motor, they are different sizes) they are the only screws left.

    11. Push the window motor cable inside the door, then tilt the entire unit from it’s up and down position to a horizontal left-right position. I then patiently fed it through the hole at the bottom right side of the door…under the hole where the speaker used to be.

    12. Once out remove 2 screws? (I can’t remember but you will see) to remove the window motor from the regulator. Clean off the surface of the window motor and attach it to the new regulator. If you buy the regulator from http://www.powerupauto.com/Jeep1.html like I did, it comes with basic instruction on how to connect the motor to the regulator.

    Install in reverse.
    Last edited by catz479; 07-15-2006 at 10:36. Reason: trying to get the THUMBS DOWN icon off the title

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by binzca
    I had the same problems and had the fuel pump replaced all because a 15 cents rubber gasket. The problem is because this gasket, air goes into the fuel line which causes the fuel to drain back to the gas tank, this is why you have to crank the engine multiple times until you have fuel to start the car. It is amazing that one has to get a new fuel pump which cost over 300 Dollars just because a 15 cebt rubber gasket has failed. This is American Technology !!!!
    Don't waste your money on the fuel pump. A lot of vehicles' fuel pumps run and bring the fuel line up to pressure when the key is in the "On" position. I'm not sure for all Grand Cherokees, but at least the '99 group needs to see a crank signal to run the fuel pump. Cranking it for a second, then waiting a few seconds and cranking again always works for me. You shouldn't need to crank it many times, just once and give it time to come up to pressure.

  13. #113
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    Unhappy 2004 JGC Laredo

    i just recently have encountered a problem with my '04 GC Laredo. two days ago i got in to go to work and it started up fine, but the interior lights stayed on- even when I shut off the car (a wonderful monday to start my week). I re-closed all the doors and the lights still wouldn't go off. I turned on the car again and i realized I couldn't roll down the window. From the driver's side panel, I couldn't move any of the side mirrors, any of the windows, nor engage the lock. i popped out the fuse to the interior lights and put it back in, now the interior lights work fine. when I get out and use the fob to lock the car, all the doors lock except the driver side door. no whirring of a motor when I hit the buttons, nothing. the dealership told me it could be a $270 part by their best guess, but is it something I could do at home for much cheaper? though the a/c works fine, the gas mileage is even more horrendous now and I'm ready to get rid of this thing... once i can get it in sellable condition.
    any help?

    -trish

  14. #114
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    97 GCL--front end scoot?

    I have a 97 GCL, bought used 3 yrs ago. Can relate to brake poblems, tried to have the old ones turned, but shop couldn't do, so bought new rotors. Then my pads overheated, replaced the calipers. problem solved, I think, haha. ABS light comes on sometimes, maybe flushing brake fluid might help. Now, the front end. Have thought about this scooting thing when turning sharp in i.e. parking lots. People standing close are very frightened. I have selec-trac, and the 4 wheel high doesnt work, but 4 wheel low does. I'm leaning toward vacuum swithc on the transfer case. If it isn't fully disengaged, sounds like it could be the culprit. Any comments would be gladly received.

  15. #115
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    Window regulator problem

    I too have had both front window regulators go out on my 2003 model. Unfortunately when one piece breaks you have to purchase the whole regulator. It will cost you over $300.00 if you go to the dealer. I found a place that speacializes in windows and paid under $300.00. Have you had any problems, or anyone else who might read this thread, with the rpm jumping and not being able to accelerate with the pedal to the floor and at times your vehicle dying as well as the engine light on? Well, I have experienced this and it was corrected for a short time by replacing the tps sensor I believe, and fixing a short in the wiring that was causing the sensor to burn up. It continued to do the same thing so I took it back in and they replaced the sensor again and no relief. The third time they had the wiring pulled and working on it and they said that we needed a new harness. It seems to be running fine now I am just waiting to see for how long hopefully a good while. Any feedback or input? I would love to hear it.

  16. #116
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    2002 Cherokee window problem

    I have contacted Chrysler about the same problem with my 2002 Grande Cherokee.

    Early May, my Driver Front Passenger window fell as a passenger was rolling up the window. A loud pop, then it dropped. Service rep at dealer described problem as a plastic part that wears and fails. Said it was worse with extreme temp changes. Living in central Tx, one tends to get upper 90s,100s this time of year. Service rep said this happens often. $430 later, I'm on my way.

    This past Monday, July 17th, I'm at work, left windows cracked as it as the temps have been topping 100 here. Once I get on the road, I roll the windows up ... and POP .. .there goes the front driver side window. Same dealership, different service rep. This one knew the problem as soon as I mentioned pop and drop. Told him how I had just been there two months ago for same problem on passenger side. He went on and on about how the problem happens all to often, how expensive it was. Even mentioned that Chrysler should just issue a recall and fix the problem. No offer to assist with cost though, just told me to hold on to the receipts.

    I called Chrysler on Tuesday, July 18, reported a problem, got a "Reference #". The rep said he'd research and call me back. Friday, July 21, I called back to get the status. Another rep pulled up the ticket and had to consult with the original agent. Seems like the agent had not been about to contact the dealership for details. Huh? When I picked up the Jeep, the service rep mentioned that Chrysler had contacted them regarding my problem.

    Now, I have no confidence in the vehicle. Fortunately, I've be around home/work when this happens. Have a garage at home, no problem leaving windows open at work, weather permitting. But, now worried that if I'm travelling, or just going to the grocery store, dinner, etc. I may have to leave my Jeep in a parking lot with window rolled down, or change my plans and head back home.

    Sorry for the long post, but just acknowleding my problem and venting.

  17. #117
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    Window fell into door panel

    Just today as I was rolling down front passenger window, the glass went down into the door panel and will not come back up. Electrical stills work but glass must be off frame. Need help...dealerships in Denver want $430 and $480 respectively to fix. Sounds awfully high to me...what can I do? Any help/guidance appreciated.
    Susan
    sussandoz@aol.com

  18. #118
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    Did you hear a fairly loud "pop" at anytime prior?

    You may have a power window "regulator" that failed, apparently a known problem. In my case the dealership charged $226 for the part, the rest was labor, totaling around $430 each time.

  19. #119
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    GC widow problems

    I have a 2003 GC and yesterday the passenger window went down and refuses to go back up. I assume after seeing the notes on this site I now have a $400.00 problem. What a piece of junk if this is indeed the case! I have not experienced the front brakes issue that I've seen posted here but I can only assume that's next. Is there any help if this Jeep is so called "certified"?

  20. #120
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    2000 GC Laredo problems/resolutions

    Hi, I have a 2000 Laredo with 97,000 miles that was purchased new. As with many others, the brakes were shot and replaced and upgraded under warranty. Once at 9,000 and once at 32,000. Since then, I did a complete brake job at 65,000.

    Also, the power door lock somehow disengaged and it cost me $175.00 to fix.

    My transmission started to buck and hunt one day (about85,000) and the check engine light came on. The code was injector #8 problem. I called the dealer and he told me to run some injector cleaner in there and clean the TB and IAC valve.

    I did what the dealer told me and there have been no problems since. My Jeep has been a great vehicle, the oil has been changed regularly, tranny flushed twice, ready for three w/filter replacement, tranfer case maintained as well as diffs. The vehicle is off-road a lot because we have a farm and it has towed all of it's life.

    If you just put gas in and drive, all vehicles will break. Am I lucky, I don't know, but $175 in unplanned repairs over 6 years does not seem like a bad run.


    For those with the tranny problems, try cleaning the TB and IAC valve with TB cleaner. I think that may be one of the big problems people run into. A can of TB cleaner is about 4 bucks a new trans is about 3000.

    Good Luck

    P.S. the radio and CD player do suck. (Infinity Gold)

  21. #121
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    same problem with broken window regulators

    First it was my driver side window - a loud pop and then the window dropped and would not go up. Four hours later as my passenger door was being closed I watched the window slide into the frame. Two broken regulators in one afternoon. The 2001 jeep has been at the dealer all week - repairs are $425 per door. $300 for parts per window the rest labor. Sorry that I did not find this forum earlier....

  22. #122
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    How do I unlock the head restraints? HELP!!!

    HI, is there a way to completely unlock and remove the head restraints of the 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo? I am trying to install the seat covers and could not remove the head rests,

  23. #123
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    Class-action law suite for bad front brakes on 1999-2002 GC

    After filing a complaint with Jeep, I recieved a class-action settlement form from Daimler-Chrysler to complete and send to their lawyers. I assume that there are others in this thread that might have recieved this settlement letter also...anyone? If not, I recommend that you contact Daimler Chrysler via their web-site, as I did. You will need all past receipts to use for proof of payment to resolve the issue. This was for the pulsating brake problem only...there is no class action suite for other problems (electric windows, transmission jerking, etc.) that I am aware of.

  24. #124
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    Wire eaten up

    Quote Originally Posted by 2000Jeep
    We have run into this problem with our 2000 Jeep(does not start up sometimes, seems a bit random). We took it to the dealership a couple times and they said they could not reproduce the problem, which is quite frustrating and am now concerned about the safety of my family in this vehicle. If others have run into this problem shouldn't the dealership know what "could" be the problem. Any suggestions on what to do here? We are now thinking of selling/trading this jeep in. Thanks in advance for any advice.
    I had this problem years ago with my Jeep CJ-7, and it turned out back then that the problem was that the connectors were made out of different types of metal and they corroded due to Bi- Metallic Corrosion. (Galvanic corrosion). http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tabl...or_bi_met.html

    I do not know if that is your problem, but the "eaten away" sounds to me that this is an old problem rearing its ugly head again.

  25. #125
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    Angry

    to any one out there who wants to say that all of us having problems are just bad drivers...do a little bit better research!
    I am a normal driver, who does nothing but go back and forth on the highway. No off roading, no crazy driving, nothing...very careful driver
    I have replaced brakes and rotors several times, window regulator, transmission X's 2 (its not fun to come off of a grave yard shift at the hospital, after being up for 24 hours, and have the car break down as the 2nd transmission blows in the middle of the major road way), front differential, rear differential, lines going to the transmission (after i am onto the 3rd transmission) blowing which in turn leaked out all my fluid and left me stranded just before a long trip out of state...and all of this was by 60,000 miles....i am not a genius, however 2 transmissions and brake jobs every 5 months seems a little excessive, especially when a transmission goes for $3,000 (thankfully the 2nd one was under warrenty, however that first one really hurt). I got rid of an '87 car, which cost me next to nothing to drive, to get this piece of junk that has cost me $7,000 in car repairs in 2 years...for a car that is only 5 years old, that's ridiculous...for everyone else out there...i really feel your pain....never ever ever again will i trust jeep GC's!!!!!!!

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