Nomogram ratings

[CVStroker]

11.5" is correct, RE uses really beefy baskets for their subs.

[nastynas]

11.5" is correct, RE uses really beefy baskets for their subs.

You're right! But look how big a hole the builder cut

[CVStroker]

Oops. Was he not paying attention? No way that will work. You have two options, either glue in rings there VERY snuggly (not recommended) or make him rebuild the box. You should opt for option 2. If you had it built by a business, they are obligated to rebuild it correctly at their expense because they did not provide what they promised you. If you get that option, have them put the port in the correct place. He'll have to bend the port (if he can't figure that out, get you money back and find a new box builder)

Plus, now that I've got a little clearer picture of the inside, he is either the cleanest carpenter I've ever seen, or he didn't use any kind of glue/sealant on that box. If the second is the case, that sub will eventually blow a seam apart. I can almost guarantee it will blow that terminal cup out as well (learned that one the hard way with my Brahma).

There are some definate problems that need to be fixed now that I've got a good look at the inside.

[nastynas]

Oops. Was he not paying attention? No way that will work. If you had it built by a business, they are obligated to rebuild it correctly at their expense because they did not provide what they promised you.

Plus, now that I've got a little clearer picture of the inside, he is either the cleanest carpenter I've ever seen, or he didn't use any kind of glue/sealant on that box. If the second is the case, that sub will eventually blow a seam apart. I can almost guarantee it will blow that terminal cup out as well (learned that one the hard way with my Brahma).

There are some definate problems that need to be fixed now that I've got a good look at the inside.

I have absolutely no issues with the business rebuilding a new box for me as I have known them a while and they are good people.

What do you mean by 'blowing a seam'? Also when you mention a port mounted in the front baffle do you mean the port firing through the same panel as the sub? Should I bend the port all the way throughout the box or just where it finishes out of the box?

I didn't want a terminal there but forgot to mention it until it was to late. I also wanted the box to be slanting and not just rectangular as I have found that it sounds better (for reasons I can't explain).

Thanks for your help CV, greatly appreciated

[CVStroker]

By blowing a seam I mean the air pressure will literally bust the joint causing an air leak and the cabinet will start to rattle (my dads home theater speakers did that a few years ago, it's quite possibly the most annoying thing a speaker can do)

Yes, the port should fire through the same panel as the sub. Make the bend at the back of the box and have the port play into the box parallel to the back wall.

As for the terminal, your best bet with a sub like that is to use a pair of corrosion proof bolts instead of the classic plastic cup. Just drill two holes slightly smaller than the bolts so the threads will screw in and lock them in place, as well as seal the hole. A pair of nuts on each end will secure the bolt in place as well as give you a place you can attach the wires.

A slanted back will prevent a loaded wave inside the box. Instead of the sound wave coming off the back of the cone reflecting back into the sub, it's re-directed toward the bottom of the box. Thats why it sound better.

[nastynas]

By blowing a seam I mean the air pressure will literally bust the joint causing an air leak and the cabinet will start to rattle (my dads home theater speakers did that a few years ago, it's quite possibly the most annoying thing a speaker can do)

Yes, the port should fire through the same panel as the sub. Make the bend at the back of the box and have the port play into the box parallel to the back wall.

As for the terminal, your best bet with a sub like that is to use a pair of corrosion proof bolts instead of the classic plastic cup. Just drill two holes slightly smaller than the bolts so the threads will screw in and lock them in place, as well as seal the hole. A pair of nuts on each end will secure the bolt in place as well as give you a place you can attach the wires.

A slanted back will prevent a loaded wave inside the box. Instead of the sound wave coming off the back of the cone reflecting back into the sub, it's re-directed toward the bottom of the box. Thats why it sound better.

I have heard bust seams on a home speaker box and it really is one of the most annoying sounds ever.

Thanks for your explanation of the slanting box, never really understood it beforehand.
I am making a list of everything you have mentioned and going to forward it on to be re-built to them specifications.

If there is anything else you would like to add (types of sealant etc) I will be more then welcoome to add that to the criteria for the upcoming build.

Thank you very much indeed CV, I will be keeping you intouch...

Nas

[CVStroker]

My suggestion for building the box is to use Gorilla Glue. It will expand to seal the joint, and the wood will break before the seal does.

Plus, double layering 3/4" MDF isn't necessary, a single layre is more than strong enough to handle that sub. Save yourself some weight and money.

[nastynas]

Thanks CV, do you by any chance have any pictures of what a radded port looks like on a box?

Thanks for all your help btw

[CVStroker]

radded port

typo or trying to confuse me?

[nastynas]

typo or trying to confuse me?

I believe 'Radding' is referred to as rounding over the edges of the port to prevent any noise. I,e. 'A radded port' is a slot port that has had the edges rounded over.

[CVStroker]

Never heard the term before.

As for what it looks like, well, it's not hard to imagine. It doesn't affect the aesthetics of a box negatively as long as it's painted like the inside of the port.