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  1. #51
    I'm in your head Registered Member CVStroker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snake Plissken
    "If you port your subs, tuned to about 30-32 hz, and open up the rear deck, you'll notice a huge difference in the bass."

    But what if I didnt want to alter anything regarding the rear deck or seats, etc....would the ported box STILL make a difference in what is getting into the cabin with seats up, sealed trunk, etc?

    Try wiring the subs correctly first, maybe the out put will increas to where you want it. Then try porting them, that will also increase output. If it's still not enough, you need to with upgrade your subs, or open up the rear deck.
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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by CVStroker
    Methinks your friend is a moron. Thats not how you bridge an amp. Look at the speaker terminals of your amp. You should see 2 + and 2 - symbols, and then you should see something that says which ones to use when bridging the amp. I don't know if what your friend is actually bridging the amp, but I have a feeling it's not good for the amp. When the amp is bridged, you should have 1 pair of wires coming from it, not 2 tied together.

    Wire the positives of the subs to the positive lead from the amp, and the negatives to the negative lead of the amp. Unless you have the 8 ohm versions of those subs, you'll be dropping your ohm load below the stable ohm load of the amp. Look at the manual for your amp, it should show you how to bridge the amp correctly, I gurante it wont be like your friend has it bridged. I think with the way your friend has it wired in stereo, the channels are fighting each other. Bridge it properly, and you'll notice a huge difference.
    Perhaps I described how he had the setup done improperly....how YOU describe the bridging proces, with the positives COMING FROM THE BOX going into the amp's positive terminal and negatives doing the same, IS the way he has it done.....I think I may have described how he did it incorrectly or unclearly....

    Now, what he did do, as I tried to describe, is he TIED TOGETHER the POSITIVE leads coming from each side of the sub box (the positive speaker wires coming from each terminal on the box) and TIED TOGETHER the NEGATIVE leads coming from each side of the box, then TOOK THOSE INDIVIDUALLY and plugged the COMBINED positive wires into the + terminal of the amp and the COMBINED negatives into the - terminal of the amp.....he claims this is running the subs IN PARALLEL and then bridging the amp....is this STILL not correct?

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by CVStroker
    Try wiring the subs correctly first, maybe the out put will increas to where you want it. Then try porting them, that will also increase output. If it's still not enough, you need to with upgrade your subs, or open up the rear deck.
    Yes.....I suspected upgrading the subs would be next.....I mean, the XLCs are not Rockford's best and never were.....

  4. #54
    I'm in your head Registered Member CVStroker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snake Plissken
    Perhaps I described how he had the setup done improperly....how YOU describe the bridging proces, with the positives COMING FROM THE BOX going into the amp's positive terminal and negatives doing the same, IS the way he has it done.....I think I may have described how he did it incorrectly or unclearly....

    Now, what he did do, as I tried to describe, is he TIED TOGETHER the POSITIVE leads coming from each side of the sub box (the positive speaker wires coming from each terminal on the box) and TIED TOGETHER the NEGATIVE leads coming from each side of the box, then TOOK THOSE INDIVIDUALLY and plugged the COMBINED positive wires into the + terminal of the amp and the COMBINED negatives into the - terminal of the amp.....he claims this is running the subs IN PARALLEL and then bridging the amp....is this STILL not correct?

    Yes, that is how to wire them correctly, but you have to make sure you have to 8 ohm version of those subs, otherwise your not running your amp in a stable ohm load. That pre-fab box is hurting your output more than you think as well. Those subs probably prefer a ported box, and it's also way too small for a sealed box.
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  5. #55
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    Snake, let me make one thing clear: people who make blanket statement such as "15s are no good, you should get 12s, they will carry the bass farther..." DON'T KNOW ****. It would be wise for you to run ANY advice you get from your installer past people on the forum, by the sound of it.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by CVStroker
    Yes, that is how to wire them correctly, but you have to make sure you have to 8 ohm version of those subs, otherwise your not running your amp in a stable ohm load. That pre-fab box is hurting your output more than you think as well. Those subs probably prefer a ported box, and it's also way too small for a sealed box.
    Okay....whew....at least Im in the right direction here.....now, I will check on the impedance of those subs, but aside from the fact that the ohm load may be too low for this amp (which I dont see as possible as the amp has NEVER shut down on me nor fed any distortion to the subs no matter how high I got the volume), I am concerned with your statements regarding the box....from ALL the reviews I have read online regarding the Punch XLC subs, I have noticed it is always said that recommended for these speakers a small sealed enclosure....

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike patton
    Snake, let me make one thing clear: people who make blanket statement such as "15s are no good, you should get 12s, they will carry the bass farther..." DON'T KNOW ****. It would be wise for you to run ANY advice you get from your installer past people on the forum, by the sound of it.
    I think what he was actually getting at Mike was that he feels 15s will give a much "sloppier" bass, which is true, as opposed to 12s that will mix a throbbing punch with a good rolloff carry for outside-the-car bass; I gotta tell you, I had a Kicker SS-12 enclosure in an old system which was in a 1991 Nissan 240SX, powered by TWO Coustic amps, one running in bridged mode feeding one sub in the Kicker box, and the other bridged feeding the other sub....this thing ROOOOOCKED.....I was setting off car alarms, people got dizzy inside the car....these 15s, I gotta be honest, dont do that.....it DOES in fact seem like its a messy, dirty, obnoxious bass from these Rockford 15s, and on top of that, the bass isnt getting into the street........

  8. #58
    I'm in your head Registered Member CVStroker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snake Plissken
    I think what he was actually getting at Mike was that he feels 15s will give a much "sloppier" bass, which is true, as opposed to 12s that will mix a throbbing punch with a good rolloff carry for outside-the-car bass; I gotta tell you, I had a Kicker SS-12 enclosure in an old system which was in a 1991 Nissan 240SX, powered by TWO Coustic amps, one running in bridged mode feeding one sub in the Kicker box, and the other bridged feeding the other sub....this thing ROOOOOCKED.....I was setting off car alarms, people got dizzy inside the car....these 15s, I gotta be honest, dont do that.....it DOES in fact seem like its a messy, dirty, obnoxious bass from these Rockford 15s, and on top of that, the bass isnt getting into the street........

    It's all in install, and, right now, with that pre-fab box, your install sucks. If you build a box to specs of that amp, you'll have the bass you want.
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  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by CVStroker
    It's all in install, and, right now, with that pre-fab box, your install sucks. If you build a box to specs of that amp, you'll have the bass you want.
    You may feel that the install "sucks," but the box was built --- as assured to be by the shop (and I saw the paperwork order slip) --- to Rockford's specifications for the XLCs...now, dont get the wrong impression here, the bass does ROMP----everything shakes to death inside the car, but the bass is in fact sloppy and boomy and does not, for some reason, carry out of the vehicle --- are you telling me that 15's DO NOT give a somewhat boomier, sloppier bass than smaller drivers? You do believe that?

  10. #60
    I'm in your head Registered Member CVStroker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snake Plissken
    You may feel that the install "sucks," but the box was built --- as assured to be by the shop (and I saw the paperwork order slip) --- to Rockford's specifications for the XLCs...now, dont get the wrong impression here, the bass does ROMP----everything shakes to death inside the car, but the bass is in fact sloppy and boomy and does not, for some reason, carry out of the vehicle --- are you telling me that 15's DO NOT give a somewhat boomier, sloppier bass than smaller drivers? You do believe that?

    I believe that a 15, or even a good 18 can sound as good as a 10 or a 12, especially is the XBL^2 motor is being used. The problem with most sloppy sounding 15s and 18s is they use the motor designed for the 12. If you have a woofer that's designed from the ground up as a 18" woofer, it will sound good.
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  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snake Plissken
    are you telling me that 15's DO NOT give a somewhat boomier, sloppier bass than smaller drivers? You do believe that?
    I believe that, and I have proof inside my car. I have a 15" sub right now that sounds way tighter, faster, and punchier than all of the 12s I've owned previously. If your sub does not sound very good, don't blame the size of the sub. Blame the sub itself. In other words, if you have a shitty 15, that does not automatically make all 15s shitty. Get it?

  12. #62
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    i had the same problem your just out of tune keep the sealed enclosure. on your head unit put all settings to 0 or flat and start with the mid 500 put it to negative one or two or until the voice sounds more clear (where the voice does not sound like its screaming at you even if you have the volume high. then lower bass on the 60-250 lower one nob down then go to your treble and raise until it sounds louder and clear and once you got that down turn up the bass and let me know if there is a difference if not then just turn down the setting on the bass boost on the amp if you have it on your amp and if not just lower the main level gain on the amp your just putting to much power somewhere and its not letting the music sound how it supposed to. or if your head unit has an option to choose what size speaker like mine says normal narrow middle wide change those settings before anything and see if that makes a difference. that's what fixed my problem. when I play with the equalizer I try to get the sound to have a rumble or thunder kind of sound (I use the mid and treb for that and that makes the sound wave hit a lot more cleaner and people will turn trust me on that

  13. #63
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    I agree with almost every word)

  14. #64
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    And I like it when the bass is heard outside.

  15. #65
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    Or you can arrange a small street disco, it's fun.

  16. #66
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    I do not like when the music in the car is too loud.

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