• 05-17-2006, 11:26
    fhaley
    Grand Cherokee braking problems
    I have had the same issues with my 1999 Grand Cherokee Laredo; the most bothersome and consistent problems have been brake shudder/shaking and transmission jerks and a loud "clunk" at low speeds. I had the rotors and pads replaced again just 21,000 miles ago and the problem came back again after 6,000 miles. However, I was not even told about the service advisory TSB 05-003-2B - Front Brake pulsation during light to moderate brake application by the 2 local dealerships I went to. They let me waste money replacing the brakes with the old-style parts 2 years after the dealerships were notified of this advisory in 2002!!! When I confronted them with this after going to this site, they said that there was a "recent" advisory and the fix was now available for another $623.38. I have sent an e-mail to Chryler/Jeep about this and have not heard back from them yet, though I will continue to follow up. My real question is this: has anyone performed the fix with the "redesigned" calipers and pads (and new rotors) and does this actually solve the problem?
  • 05-18-2006, 16:07
    ignagonza
    Ne problem with the JGC
    Hi ever one...

    My 96 JGC just die on me. I was driving at 70 miles per hour and suddenly all gauges and the engine went dead...Radio and accesories work fine...I stopped and tried to start the engine again but, after crancking a few times I gave up. Wait for the tow truck and now I have no car...

    Any Ideas...!!!????
  • 06-01-2006, 11:10
    SAEAPP
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ArmyGuy01
    This is a response to my previous write-up

    I ordered my new regulator from power up auto. http://www.powerupauto.com/ for 40+ dollars. I checked the site today and the price has already gone up to 90$. The price is still not too bad and I got it within a few days.I recommend that you send a email to them to confirm you are ordering the right one for your year vehicle.

    INSTRUCTIONS:
    It is easy to remove once you figure it out or have instructions...Remember, don’t try to use your window while it’s broke or you will burn up the electric motor. I taped the window in the up position until I got my new regulator.

    1. Remove the door panel (3 screws: one in armrest and one near rearview mirror and last one is a hex head located in the door handle well)

    2. Pop door panel off easily using a wide flat tip screw driver or something that’s plastic, thin and wide to prevent scratching… start popping it off at the bottom of the door in a corner….there are a bunch of plastic clips holding it on. Don't worry if a couple of them break you can order a few new ones for a couple bucks... No problem.

    3. Once you get the panel popped out some, you need to disconnect the power window cable, power mirror cable, and door and lock controls so you can completely remove the panel. (cables have a little clip on the back of them, squeeze it to unlock and remove) (Door and lock metal rods have a plastic retainer, gently turn them and then easily pull out of their respective holes)

    4. Remove the speaker (4 screws and unplug connector)

    5. Remove the plastic cover (I had a black plastic cover under the door panel and it was attached with some black rubber like glue. The glue is none drying so if you remove it carefully, a little at a time it will stay on the plastic and you can re use it.

    6. Where the window comes through the top of the door or ...the part that your arm rests on if you hang your arm out the open window....there are 2 rubber seals that the window comes up between when it’s raised. Remove the inner one (towards the inside of the car) you can pry it up and it will pop out. Be sure to save the 2 sponge looking things that are under each end if your model has them.

    7. Take out the 2 clips that hold the window to the regulator. You will have to reach inside the door and pull them out, one on the left and right...no problem.

    8. Window removal: Once you have removed the clips holding the window to the regulator you have to gently work the two window “nipples” out of the regulator holes. Once you have it up a little past the regulator window holding piece…turn the window so that the rear of it is up and comes out first….then work it upwards to remove it from the door. It should come out easily, if not take a break because you don’t want to buy glass too.

    9. Unplug the power window cable from the window motor (located in the center of the door)

    10. Remove screws that hold the regulator and the window motor to the inside of the door (I think there were 4 regulator screws and 3 holding the motor, they are different sizes) they are the only screws left.

    11. Push the window motor cable inside the door, then tilt the entire unit from it’s up and down position to a horizontal left-right position. I then patiently fed it through the hole at the bottom right side of the door…under the hole where the speaker used to be.

    12. Once out remove 2 screws? (I can’t remember but you will see) to remove the window motor from the regulator. Clean off the surface of the window motor and attach it to the new regulator. If you buy the regulator from http://www.powerupauto.com/Jeep1.html like I did, it comes with basic instruction on how to connect the motor to the regulator.

    Install in reverse.

    ArmyGuy01 - Great directions! I am so glad I found this forum. My passenger side window regulator went out last week (2001 GC). Not knowing what to do, I called the dealership and they quoted me 402 bucks! Ridiculous! The guy at the dealership couldnt even tell me if the motor was included with the regulator. I then began researching it online and found this forum. I ordered the part from the place you suggested...powerupauto...Great place, great service, and great price! The guy Scott there should really be commended! Anyway, Scott shipped my part last Thursday and I received it this past tuesday (have to remember it was a holiday monday). I printed out these directions you have provided here and the project was a breeze! It took me only 1.5 hours to do it by myself. Thanks again for posting such great advice and directions ArmyGuy!
  • 06-06-2006, 10:32
    tkipp
    JGC Window Regulator
    We have an 04 JGC with 40K miles. Our D/S front window regulator broke while the Jeep was parked. The "5 star" dealership quoted me at $445 plus tax to fix the problem. I did get the service guy to admit that they see an "unusually high" number of window regulator problems in the Grand. I called Jeep, complained and moaned. They contacted the dealership and got the price reduced to $100. Worth trying.
  • 06-11-2006, 12:34
    wanda0824
    2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee is a LEMON
    I feel your pain. I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee that I have had recurring problems with the Rotors. I have had them turned twice, and replaced the rotors once, and they need replacing again. It has only 63,000 miles on it. My other recurring problem is with the window regulators. I've replaced 3 out of 4 now. Each time it was $400. When I spoke with the service manager at the dealership and explained the problems, he would not acknowledge either recurring problem. Told me I was just "lucky." Yeah, lucky enough to be sold a lemon. I took my Jeep to Big 10 Tires yesterday to have them do the rotors...fed up with giving the dealership all my money. They wouldn't touch the brakes until I spoke with the dealership and found out if my Grand Cherokee fell under some bulletin that came out that said they used the wrong size calipers on some models and years and that it would cause the rotors to warp prematurely. There is a kit being sold for about $500 to fix the problem...again, not a freebie to their problem...more money. I left there very upset I found this out from a car repair place and not from my dealer after having discussed the problem with him personally. I called the dealer and, I guess he is still looking it up, as he never called me back. Can't wait to dump this car. What a disappointment. 41 years old, this was my first new car in my entire life. What a joke? I also wrote to the Jeep people...haven't heard anything back.
  • 06-23-2006, 11:01
    bigmug1
    The Death Wobble
    I have a 95 jeep gc and I to have had the same brake, wobble , rotor problems as everyone has. We have changed the track arm, tie rod ends. And still get the death wobble, now I'm being told that it could be the control arm bushings. There seems to be some play in that. Should I spend another 500$ to fix this or will it fix it at all. Any Help PLEASE.
  • 06-24-2006, 09:02
    fhaley
    Update on my brake problem...
    After a stupid response from Daimler Chrsyler saying it was the way my wife drives and brakes, I decided to have the "factory-recommended fix" for $623.38 that I mentioned in my earlier post. I can say that the new calipers are a VERY different design from the originals on my 1999 GC Laredo. This did resolve the issue (just as it did when I replaced rotors last time), so I'm hoping that the addition of the new style calipers will resolve the problem for longer than 6,000 miles (there is a 1 year warranty by Jeep on my new parts)...will let everyone know how it turns out.
  • 06-24-2006, 09:02
    fhaley
    Update on my brake problem...
    After a stupid response from Daimler Chrsyler saying it was the way my wife drives and brakes, I decided to have the "factory-recommended fix" for $623.38 that I mentioned in my earlier post. I can say that the new calipers are a VERY different design from the originals on my 1999 GC Laredo. This did resolve the issue (just as it did when I replaced rotors last time), so I'm hoping that the addition of the new style calipers will resolve the problem for longer than 6,000 miles (there is a 1 year warranty by Jeep on my new parts)...will let everyone know how it turns out.
  • 06-26-2006, 11:10
    jay.reynolds
    2002 Cherokee window problem
    I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, at 15,000 miles the brakes and rotors had to be replaced, now at 40,000 the drivers side window just fell into the door, seems like I am seeing alot of that going around, I was quoted 355 dollars to replace the motor. I have owned alot of chrysler vehicles and it seems the Cherokee always has brake problems, I do not pull anything with this vehicle and we drive it very carefully. I payed alot for this vehicle, when I asked the salesperson why it costs so much, the answer was "it holds its value because its a Jeep" , try to get that same answer when you try to trade it in and they bad mouth the rough ride.
  • 06-27-2006, 05:46
    ymadas
    98 JGC Problem
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by managermike
    I have a 2000 JGC that I bought new. It now has about 74k miles on it. v6. I had the shocks done all the way around at 30k. The driver elec door lock at some point and that's about it. The rear driver door elec lock needs to be done right now. I brought it in at about 60k to look at the brakes because I was getting worried I have never had them done. They said they are worn about half way and to check them again about now. No vibrations, ever so slight engine ping for a long time. The hood hydraulic does not work. Then today while driving the radio starts freaking out and the odometer display is flashing like there is an electrical problem happening. Now when I start the car the odometer starts flashing and the ABS and Brake lights stay on after the freaky light show. Anyone have similar problems. I must be the exception to the rule with the brakes, but sorry to say it is true.


    I'm also having a problem with my windows not working and the lights flashing also my winshield wipers won't work and the sound of the doors opening/closing...anyone having similar problems or can tell me what they think might be going on....
    managermike...I'd like to hear from you...
  • 06-27-2006, 19:43
    gapeach
    2002 Grand Cherokee Transmission headache
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by RF43
    Hello Everyone, I am new to this forum. I live in Central New Jersey, and after reading many of the posted comments regarding this vehicle, all I can say is I wish I knew then what I know now. I purchased a 2002 JGC new, with a factory incentive 36k Bumper/Bumper -100k Drivetrain warranty. (at the time, the inclusion of this warranty was a major determining factor for purchase.) While I havn't experienced some of the seemingly more common ailments, it has had it's problems. A majority of my driving is highway, no offroad usage. Currently have 94k on said Vehicle.
    Here's the list:

    Brakes- 30k, it warped a set of front rotors. Dealer said it would cost around 1500.00 to fix the front (!) brakes, which included New rotors, new pads, new bearings, new calipers and get this- NEW SPINDLES- what a deal- Said thanks but no thanks. Took Vehicle to a local service station, had the rotors trued for a cost of 75.00 and was able to log an additional 18k on the same brakes (Keep in mind- highway driving). At which point I replaced the front brakes and installed aftermarket rotors. Those rotors are still going strong, even after another brake job and truing at 85k. Bottom line- Chrysler, along with other car manufacturers are keeping costs down by using cheaper materials.

    Things that go "Bump": At around 32k, I noticed what seemed to be a delay in shifting from 2nd to first gear on a downshift. Most often it would occur stopping for a traffic light or stop sign. I would sometimes happen on the slowdown, other times it would happen at point of acceleration. The sensation is one of being gently bumped from behind, or a solid clunk. Took it to the dealer I bought the vehicle from and they tried to fix the problem by replacing a governor sensor- literally one trip around the block and back to the shop it went. The service manager sent a mechaninc with me to verify the occurence, which he did. Was told to bring it back the following Monday, which I did. At that point, the service manager told me that they had already fixed it once and wern't going to waste any more of their time on it- I was livid, these guys are a small Dealership two blocks from my Business. A phone call to Chrysler resulted in a recommendation to one of their 5 star service centers, I was told since the local shop wasn't rated, not to go there anymore. ( I have a feeling this is more about Corporate pressuring the small dealers than about getting better service, but I played along). Went to their recommended center (same one that offered the bargain on the brakes) and they identified a problem and tried to fix it. This lasted for about 25 miles before it had to go back for the same issue. Again, they tried to fix it by changing a different part. Same result- less than a hundred miles later ti was back though not as pronounced. Then at around 36k miles, I started hearing noises, grinding and moaning sounds coming from the central area of the vehicle. Uh oh -I thought maybe the torque converter had gone bad and was also the culprit for the rough shifting. Into the shop it goes. Test drive the Mechanic "ouldn't hear" what I was hearing. When he finally figured out I wasn't going away he acknowledged he heard "some sounds" and would have them checked out. This time around they claimed to have replaced a bearing in the transfer case. At first he accused me of installing the wrong fluid. When I informed them that the fluid in the case was whatever Chrysler had put in atthe factory, he then said someone must have tampered with it. I then asked for a technical printout showing the chemical analysis breakdown. He said he couldn't provide that and that the repair would be warrantied. Bump in shifting still there, but that sound was gone. Decided to live with the transmission shifting problem for a while.

    Leaks: At about 65 k, both rear axle seals had let go. Gear Oil was everwhere, ruined the rear disc brakes and parking brake assemblies. Chrysler warrantied the Seals, but refused to warranty the damage caused to the brakes. net net- 450 worth of Service center repairs out of pocket on a warranty related issue. Noted problem with transmission, said they couldn't find anything.

    93k- Start losing antifreeze, but have no visible leaks and the oil doesn't seem to have the normal telltale signs of coolant (Foamy milkshake appearance), except that there seemed to be a little condensation on the oil filler cap. 1300 miles later, my oil pressure starts acting up. Went from 50 psi cold/ 40 cruising/ idle to 40-50 cold, 35 crusing and around 10 at idle, in gear or out. On hot start ups, sometimes the check guage light would stay on- ru roh, something is amiss. Took to my friends shop and put a mechanical guage on it to verify the numbers. Nope, Something wrong with the motor. He calls the local dealer, and the shop advised him that the 6 cyl engine has a tendency to develop a cracked head, right below the valve cover. Shop said this caused coolant to leech into the oil and wipe out the camshaft bearings and or main bearings, resulting in lower than normal oil pressure, or if not caught in time- motor failure. Said it should be covered under drivetrain warranty. SOO- I take it to the 5 star center again. Service manager didn't want to know from Adam about what some other dealer said, insisted that his guys would figure it out and let me know how they would handle it. I also mentioned the transmission problem again. Result- Yes, it has a cracked head. Yes, Chrysler will authorize the replacement of the head assembly. Said he had 2 techs test drive the vehicle and they couldn't find anything abnormal with the shifting. When I queried about possible bearing failure due to the low oil pressure, at first he said that 10lbs was normal for that engine. When I insisted that it wasn't, he then stated that it was considered "acceptable". When I told him it is an early sign of engine failure resulting from bearing clearances opening up, he said there is no way to know that, and there is no way to know that the coolant leak caused the problem. I then told him that it is a known fact that the heads have a tendency to crack and leak fluid into the oil, causing bearing failure (as per comments from another Jeep center) all he said was Chrysler will not warranty the replacement of the motor. He again insisted 3-5 lbs of pressure at Idle is sufficient, 10 in gear with foot on brake being normal for this motor. Says can't fix what they don't find with regard to the transmission. (it's now jolting instead of bumping, but I guess this is also considered"Normal")This was yesterday and today. I have written another letter to Chrysler, but I honestly do not expect anything to come of it other than what has already been told to me by the dealer. My dealings with Chrysler corporate service have left me to think they care more about servicing their shareholders and bottom line more than their customers. I apologize for the longwinded post, but I tried to be thorough so that anyone else having problems might also benefit to some degree. Bottom line, I wouldn't purchase another of these vehicles, and I certainly do not recommend the purchase of a used one. I will be trading mine in on a new something or other ASAP. Are there any class action suits being filed wrt these vehicles, if so- who to contact and the reasons for suit would be appreciated. Like I said, I feel fortunate to have logged a fair amount of mileage with relatively few unresolved incidents, but my luck can't old out forever. if anyone is interested in the specific dealership info, please pm for that.


    Hey, I would like to know if you have any updates on your transmission issues. The dealerships and mechanics I have taken my car to cannot seem to find anything really wrong, but they say it is just an annoyance. My car seems to be doing the same thing as yours...when I stop there is a jerk when downshifting, and there is hesitation when switching into gears when I accelerate from a stopping point. Tonight, I was driving down the road and all of the sudden my car jerked and when I accelerated, the transmission seemed to have slipping and would not switch into third(?) gear. When I stopped and put it in park, then back to drive, it was normal but now my engine light is on. Have you had similar problems? Do you know if the 100k drivetrain warranty applies to ALL 2002 JGC's? I only have 74K on mine, but I have had many of the same problems as other JGC owners. Please let me know if this sounds like your transmission problem, and any advice would be helpful!!
  • 06-29-2006, 12:17
    Tracey
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by shawn99JGC
    I have a 99 JGC and for the last year whenever i brake and only when i brake do i get this problem. the frontend vibrates and the steering wheel also vibrates but no pulsating in the brake pedal. I have changed the front rotors and pads twice and the rear rotors and pads once, and everytime it does absolutely nothing. I had a tierod that was a little loose and also changed that, it did nothing. But when i tell people the problem they swear to me its the rotors. Please help? the rest of the frontend feels very tight. any clues would help

    Hi Shawn,
    I also have a 99JGC and have had rotor problems. From what I hear, Jeep knows about this problem and won't address it. My ex-boyfriend is a mechanic and has worked on numerous things on my Jeep. I just changed my rotors for the 4th time in 4 years last weekend. I too put brand new rotors on the front and the back. I replaced the front pads about 6 months ago and just did the back.
    From the symptoms you are describing I too believe it is your rotors. Are you always putting new rotors on or turned rotors? Also, what kind of pads did you put on? I used semi-metallic pads - ceramic is the best, but not necessary.
    Do you allow enough room for breaking - the problem with this year is that Jeep did not make the breaks big enough to hold the weight of the vehicle and it does not sit high enough to get lots of air to cool the breaks off, therefore they wear out.
    I don't understand how you say that nothing has changed when you change them - who are you taking your Jeep to? If you get it fixed again, I would ask to see the OLD rotors and pads to ensure that they are not turning them or simply not doing anything and charging you for the work.
  • 06-29-2006, 12:29
    Tracey
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rockvalley4
    I have had nothing but trouble with the brakes on my 1999 jeep grand cherokee loredo also. It is a shame because I love everything else about my jeep. I have had to have the rotors replaced twice and shaved once and I don't even have 40 thousand miles on it yet. I only drive it on the road. When I am doing about 50mph and come to a stop light and go on the brakes the steering wheel shakes and vibrates all over the place. This last time the whole jeep vibrates. It is pretty scary, it makes you wonder if your brakes are going to give out. I take it in for repair and I am always told the rotors are warped. I don't know anyone else with disc brakes on other vehicles going through this. Why do they keep warping out? Is it because the rotors are made cheaply or is it a design problem, or are the garages doing temporary repairs instead of fixing it right so that I have to keep coming back? I want to keep my jeep until it costs more to repair it than it is worth (that is what I usualy do with any vehicle I buy) but if this keeps happening with the rotors I may wind up trading it in for something else.

    Hi,
    I repllied to Shawn's email too, but I have a 99 JGC also. I have had many problems with my Jeep. My ex-boyfriend works on my Jeep all the time for me - he is a mechanic. Jeep knows about the problem, but won't fix this. The problem is that the weight of the vehichle is to heavy for the small breaks they put on, plus the breaks don't sit up enough to get a lot of air to cool them off. Getting Semi-Metallic pads will help. The other problem I have found is the wheel bearings and carrier bearings tend to go bad. Jeep made the car very Shi**y. They set the pinion dept too tight, put crapy bolts on, not big enough breaks and not the greatest axel's. Just so you know if you have problems - you have a Dana 30 front and a Dana 35 rear. I suggest you either learn how to change your own or find a mechanic friend - it is much cheaper - about $65 for the front rotors and about $80 for the rear.
  • 06-29-2006, 12:47
    Tracey
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ignagonza
    Hi ever one...

    My 96 JGC just die on me. I was driving at 70 miles per hour and suddenly all gauges and the engine went dead...Radio and accesories work fine...I stopped and tried to start the engine again but, after crancking a few times I gave up. Wait for the tow truck and now I have no car...

    Any Ideas...!!!????

    Sounds like you need a new engine.....
  • 07-02-2006, 16:50
    RonZ444
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 88cherokee
    I recently purchased a 1996 4WD Laredo :) . A couple days later my wife was driving it, and the front end started to shake uncontrollably :( . It shakes so bad the steering wheel also shakes. As my wife put it..."it almost feels like the tire is wobbling and going to fall off." It didn't do it again for about 1 week. Then it happened to me. It happened while I was applying the brake (same with my wife). The shaking does not stop after I release the brake. It normally lasts for about 10-15 seconds, then stops. It seems to be happening only under 40 mph. It doesn't happen all the time either. I'm clueless as to what it is, and I'm not quite ready to take it back to the dealership. I have called them and informed them about the problem, but they didn't know what the problem was either. :confused:
    I've done several visuals of the tires, axle, and such, but can't find anything out of place. Can Anyone Help Me?!

    Thanks,
    1996LaredoGuy

    -------

    That is a common problem that they even have a name for it (Death wobble). It is in your suspension or brakes. Mine was a bad brake caliper 18.00 at advanced auto. I would also check your track bar. This can be ordered at quadratec.com for about 60.00. These are the most common problems. If they are not the problem make sure you suspension is not lose.

    No, it's your stabiliser bar! I had the same problem... and it's very dangerous because it can wobble your wheels right off.
  • 07-05-2006, 07:48
    chiphunt1
    2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport
    Quote:

    93k- Start losing antifreeze, but have no visible leaks and the oil doesn't seem to have the normal telltale signs of coolant (Foamy milkshake appearance), except that there seemed to be a little condensation on the oil filler cap. 1300 miles later, my oil pressure starts acting up. Went from 50 psi cold/ 40 cruising/ idle to 40-50 cold, 35 crusing and around 10 at idle, in gear or out. On hot start ups, sometimes the check guage light would stay on- ru roh, something is amiss. Took to my friends shop and put a mechanical guage on it to verify the numbers. Nope, Something wrong with the motor. He calls the local dealer, and the shop advised him that the 6 cyl engine has a tendency to develop a cracked head, right below the valve cover. Shop said this caused coolant to leech into the oil and wipe out the camshaft bearings and or main bearings, resulting in lower than normal oil pressure, or if not caught in time- motor failure. Said it should be covered under drivetrain warranty. SOO- I take it to the 5 star center again. Service manager didn't want to know from Adam about what some other dealer said, insisted that his guys would figure it out and let me know how they would handle it. I also mentioned the transmission problem again. Result- Yes, it has a cracked head. Yes, Chrysler will authorize the replacement of the head assembly. Said he had 2 techs test drive the vehicle and they couldn't find anything abnormal with the shifting. When I queried about possible bearing failure due to the low oil pressure, at first he said that 10lbs was normal for that engine. When I insisted that it wasn't, he then stated that it was considered "acceptable". When I told him it is an early sign of engine failure resulting from bearing clearances opening up, he said there is no way to know that, and there is no way to know that the coolant leak caused the problem. I then told him that it is a known fact that the heads have a tendency to crack and leak fluid into the oil, causing bearing failure (as per comments from another Jeep center) all he said was Chrysler will not warranty the replacement of the motor. He again insisted 3-5 lbs of pressure at Idle is sufficient, 10 in gear with foot on brake being normal for this motor. Says can't fix what they don't find with regard to the transmission. (it's now jolting instead of bumping, but I guess this is also considered"Normal")This was yesterday and today. I have written another letter to Chrysler, but I honestly do not expect anything to come of it other than what has already been told to me by the dealer. My dealings with Chrysler corporate service have left me to think they care more about servicing their shareholders and bottom line more than their customers. I apologize for the longwinded post, but I tried to be thorough so that anyone else having problems might also benefit to some degree. Bottom line, I wouldn't purchase another of these vehicles, and I certainly do not recommend the purchase of a used one. I will be trading mine in on a new something or other ASAP. Are there any class action suits being filed wrt these vehicles, if so- who to contact and the reasons for suit would be appreciated. Like I said, I feel fortunate to have logged a fair amount of mileage with relatively few unresolved incidents, but my luck can't old out forever. if anyone is interested in the specific dealership info, please pm for that.

    I purchased my Cherokee at 32,000 miles. It was certified pre owned vehicle with a 80,000/8 year warranty. Right now it has 70,000 miles on it and a cracked head. I also started losing oil pressure, but couldn't see any signs of water in the oil. I took it into the dealer and Chrysler has denied my warranty. The claim there was rust in the cooling system. Is that my fault? Hell no. When I bought this vehicle, all fluids were supposed to be changed. The recommended coolant change for this vehicle is 75,000 after the first 36 month change, which should have been done by chrysler dealership. The dealership took my motor apart and then denied my warrantly based upon oil change maintenance schedule. Once I proved the oil had been changed at regular intervals, Chrysler called and denied the warranty based upon rust in the cooling system. I have been hung up on by Chrysler customer service and overall treated like dog crap. My state, Kentucky, does provide customer arbitration. I have not filed for arbitration yet, but am about to do so. Has anyone has any experience with this? I recommend that no one ever by a Chrysler vehicle. It's like they got my money and could care less about repeat customers. I'm close to picketing outside the dealership, so customers will go elsewhere. Lets see how much they like that.
  • 07-05-2006, 13:57
    Helpfire
    2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Problems
    I just don't understand how things brake down right after the warranty expires. My 2001 JGC has had problems with the wobble in the front when braking and forget these losey power windows. I have paid to fix them 3 TIMES already and just had another one brake today. I just ordered the regulator thanks to a post on this site and I will install the part myself. No more dealing with dealer's inflated prices.
  • 07-05-2006, 15:21
    keithj
    2001 Grand Cherokee
    Hello to all,
    I thought I was the only one having similar problems with their Jeep Grand Cherokee. I had to replace my brakes, rotors and pads twice within a years time, appromixately 5,000 miles apart. It would seem to me that with normal drivingm brakes should last at least 20 to 30 thousand miles. The third time I took my jeep to the dealer, I was quoted about 800 dollars because they told me I needed brakes all the way around, rotors and pads. The next day, I took my jeep to Midas.....$89 dollars later I was out the door. What a rip-off from Chrysler-Jeep if I had taken it there. I've become extremely suspicious of Jeep dealers at this point. I also had a passenger side window fail, just after my warranty expired(75,000 extended). How convenient. I bit the bullet on this one because I was about to go on a cross-country trip and had to have my window repaired. It was apparently what they call the regulater. The window basically fell off the track. Now I'm wondering if they just put it back on the track with the old parts or replaced everything. The invoice didn't specify. Don't get me wrong though, because I still love my jeep. I suspect it's the quality of original workmanship and the dealers are at fault. Makes you wonder why people don't buy American any longer. I quest Detroit still hasn't gotton it yet. Mayve someday.

    Keith
  • 07-05-2006, 15:25
    keithj
    I hear you talkin. These are exactly the symptoms for my 2001 GC. I'll be running my Jeep into the ground and when it dies that's it. I'm going foreign. I hate to say it......
  • 07-06-2006, 08:41
    SCARPENTER
    2002 Jgc
    My Jeep is a 2002 with 67,000miles on it. I have had to replace the radio. The driver front window. The back tail gate motor stopped working. The air shocks to hold the hood open stopped working and now I'm having major electrical problems. When I'm driving down the road the gages start going crazy and the lights start flashing. Then when I stopped my car yesterday me and my two girls got stranded. Now I feel real unsafe driving this car.I called to see if there was any recall on this and they told me no not on my jeep I would be responsible for it. I don't think that is fair. That is not normal wear and tare for an auto to do that. Anything anyone can suggest this might be? My lights come on as well the brakes and other lights when this happens.
  • 07-06-2006, 14:08
    Hammrsigpi
    Starting to wonder if it should be called Heep
    Wife and I got a 2004 GC brand new. At 9,000 miles, rotors were warped to hell. Here I am at 14,200 and the rotors are gone again. Called DC, and was told to have the local dealer do the Diag, and call them with results, and maybe they would cover part of the repairs. Looking today (on page 1 of this forum), I found that there is a class-action lawsuit for the 99-04 GC's regarding the front brakes. Called the lawyer - paperwork to go out soon, settlement most likely to come in October. For 03/04, they may only cover up to 30k miles, but 99-02 maybe more.

    So far, outside thermometer is screwy (only reads accurately when it wants to), brakes gone x2, rough idle at a stop after 20 seconds, had to add antifreeze (guess the dealer sold it w/ low fluid) and an occasional jerk when releasing the brakes after a stop.

    For those with tranny issues, I work in a trans shop. The 96-up are not the best trannies ever built. The governor solenoid/transducers do go occasionally, but if you still get gov. pressure codes after doing the solenoid/transducer, check the oxygen sensor wiring. Somehow, Chrysler wired these two together. If you have the 99-01 V8, make sure the dealer reflashes your computer - I think they did on the 01's already, but if they didn't, you may be missing your top gear.
  • 07-06-2006, 17:43
    justnikki18
    I have a 2001 Jeep and I too have the front end wobble problems, as well as the fact that sometimes my tail lights will not turn off. My keys are not even in the ignition and my tail lights will continue to stay on. I was wondering if anyone else has this problem?
  • 07-07-2006, 02:32
    Hammrsigpi
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by justnikki18
    I have a 2001 Jeep and I too have the front end wobble problems, as well as the fact that sometimes my tail lights will not turn off. My keys are not even in the ignition and my tail lights will continue to stay on. I was wondering if anyone else has this problem?

    For how long do the lights stay on? Your alarm system could be causing that...
  • 07-07-2006, 11:09
    Tracey
    If he is looking for plantiffs, how do we get in touch with him? I would love for Chrysler to do something for ALL of us that have had prolbems.


    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rubenc
    Per Autoblog 11/17/2004:
    "Details are sketchy but it seems a lawyer in the Kansas City area is looking for plantiffs in a class action lawsuit against Jeep for the faulty brakes found in the 1999-2004 Grand Cherokee. My significant other leases a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee and we're on our second trip to the dealer to fix the front brakes. The last time they said it was warped rotors. From message boards I've read we're not the only ones with this problem and this lawsuit might indeed get more folks onboard."



    http://autoblog.com/entry/0771224811266534/

  • 07-07-2006, 12:44
    Hammrsigpi
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Tracey
    If he is looking for plantiffs, how do we get in touch with him? I would love for Chrysler to do something for ALL of us that have had prolbems.

    According to the lawyer in the posted link, if you are in the class by virtue of owning the vehicle, you will be mailed paperwork. I'm not sure if this includes used Jeeps, but give them a call - supposedly this is to be in place by October.
  • 07-07-2006, 17:18
    binzca
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ajt*
    I am having a problem with my 2000 Laredo. It has problems starting and i have to crank the engine two or three times before it will start. I also have a problem with the power locks and windows. Any suggestions?

    I had the same problems and had the fuel pump replaced all because a 15 cents rubber gasket. The problem is because this gasket, air goes into the fuel line which causes the fuel to drain back to the gas tank, this is why you have to crank the engine multiple times until you have fuel to start the car. It is amazing that one has to get a new fuel pump which cost over 300 Dollars just because a 15 cebt rubber gasket has failed. This is American Technology !!!!
  • 07-12-2006, 16:00
    Aschton
    So why doesn't Chrysler stand behind their product ?
    Hello all.

    I found this site while researching to see if anyone else is having the same Jeep problems I am. Needless to say - I wasn't surprised by the postings here.

    For all of the "Jeep" reputation - and all of the common problems their vehicle seems to have , why don't they just fix the issues ? Other car makers do - they send out notices when there is a problem and sometimes even BEFORE there is a lawsuit......
    This is our 2nd Jeep product. Our 1st was a Cherokee - LOVED it ! ( Of course , it was a lease so we didn't have it very long, or had very many miles on it.)

    We now are in our 4th year owning a 2002 GC Laredo. I only have 39,000 miles on it, so it's not driven a lot or has ever been "off - roaded".

    I found out my brakes/ rotors etc... were VERY bad back in year 2 when I only had @14,000 miles on it. I say 'found out' because the guys at my local Goodyear noticed them while changing out one of my tires. I had no warning that they were going bad, much less that it was down to the rotors. No noise, no problems. They told me that the object that engages when brakes are bad that "alerts" you/ makes a noise/whateve r was defective and had never engaged. GoodYear replaced everything that needed it relatively cheap and I haven't had a problem since...( at least that I know about,LOL....)

    I have 2 issues now - the transmission and lights. Transmission started acting up in the city. Fine on the "highway" , but in town it would die when I came to a complete stop and sounded like a manual transmission that was in the wrong gear. Yesterday, the OBDS light came on the same time as the O/D Off light. Today there is no Reverse. We have the 7/ 70,000 powertrain? warranty , but the service manager said it probably won't cover whatever is wrong - either way it's going in tommorrow, so if anyone has any advice - I'd take it.

    The lights ? The lights make me want to cry.....The rear ones are a pain in the ***.
    Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Right now the rear lights only work when the headlights are off. Before, the Tailgate light and the Right rear light worked while the Left was out - until you put the brakes on and then the Right and Tailgate went out and the Left would come on. Yes, it has been to the dealership who can't explain it and bulbs and fuses have been repeatedly replaced.

    A few months back ? The engine fan assembly broke off into pieces. We didn't know that was what happened. We started the engine and heard a large 'bump'. My husband opened the hood and checked things out , but didn't see anything wrong. Few days later the radiator blew up in the BK Drive thru.... It had been damaged by the pieces of the broken fan that flew off inside . We live on an Army post and the nearby auto skills center fixed it and the manager said he had 4 other Jeeps in at that same time with the same problem...Called Jeep and ,of course, THEY know nothing about a problem like that.....

    You know ? It doesn't get great gas mileage, these days, but we bought it because we wanted a safe, reliable car. My husband deploys frequently and we have 6 yr old twins. He wanted the peace of mind that came with an automobile with a good reputation. Whoever called it a "Heep" had it right. Too bad all of the other reputable auto reviews don't include the links to forums like this. We probably wouldn't have bought this car..

    Moving to Germany soon and planning to buy the Volvo SUV.............
  • 07-13-2006, 18:27
    kenaji
    same problem with window
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ssquick454
    i have an 01 GC and it now has 80,000 miles. the passenger window regulator broke, so i took it out. i found a place on the internet called Parts Direct and they sell the part for $109.00 delivered. i also took out the other three regulators reinforced the plastic cable retainer so they will not break in the future. also what happens, is the slide that the window rides up and down on loses it's lubrication, so i added lube. i replaced the rotors once and the transmission rebuilt under warranty. i am a master auto tech and this suv has been okay considering what i have put it thru................ talk 2 me

    Just yesterday as I was coming home from work my window was acting funny....I put the window down and it just jerked then went all the way down....now by all the reviews I read it seems like I have the same problem also and its too weird that everyone has the same problems but chrysler doesn't want to recognize the problem. Anyways i would like to know how to fix it myself so If you can help me please do thank you. my email address is nestea2001@hotmail.com
  • 07-14-2006, 09:53
    mightypuckett
    overdrive turns off in Jeep GC
    I have 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee that suddenly shifts the overdrive off after driving at highway speed for about an hour. This in turn overheats the transmission (which I have recently had the fluid changed). If I drive less than 55 mph then this doesn't happen. When the overdrive shifts off and I push the button on the gear shift it won't shut off. Any thoughts?
  • 07-14-2006, 18:15
    justnikki18
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Hammrsigpi
    For how long do the lights stay on? Your alarm system could be causing that...


    The longest they remained on was 24 hours. I don't have an alarm... It's starting to kill my battery, Im constantly having to get it jumped.
  • 07-15-2006, 10:18
    catz479
    Instructions for Window regulator installation
    :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :) :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SAEAPP
    ArmyGuy01 - Great directions! I am so glad I found this forum. My passenger side window regulator went out last week (2001 GC). Not knowing what to do, I called the dealership and they quoted me 402 bucks! Ridiculous! The guy at the dealership couldnt even tell me if the motor was included with the regulator. I then began researching it online and found this forum. I ordered the part from the place you suggested...powerupauto...Great place, great service, and great price! The guy Scott there should really be commended! Anyway, Scott shipped my part last Thursday and I received it this past tuesday (have to remember it was a holiday monday). I printed out these directions you have provided here and the project was a breeze! It took me only 1.5 hours to do it by myself. Thanks again for posting such great advice and directions ArmyGuy!

    I just wanted to say THANKS to ArmyGuy01 also, for the below instructions on installing the window regulator. Also thanks to you for reposting them. The only difference is that I bought the regulator and motor for $90.00 + $10 for shipping at www.monsterautoparts.com. The whole process took me 45 minutes. I can't wait to stop by the dealership that quoted me between $450-$500 to replace, of which $225 was just for the part.


    Thanks again!!!

    -




    Originally Posted by ArmyGuy01
    This is a response to my previous write-up

    I ordered my new regulator from power up auto. http://www.powerupauto.com/ for 40+ dollars. I checked the site today and the price has already gone up to 90$. The price is still not too bad and I got it within a few days.I recommend that you send a email to them to confirm you are ordering the right one for your year vehicle.

    INSTRUCTIONS:
    It is easy to remove once you figure it out or have instructions...Remember, don’t try to use your window while it’s broke or you will burn up the electric motor. I taped the window in the up position until I got my new regulator.

    1. Remove the door panel (3 screws: one in armrest and one near rearview mirror and last one is a hex head located in the door handle well)

    2. Pop door panel off easily using a wide flat tip screw driver or something that’s plastic, thin and wide to prevent scratching… start popping it off at the bottom of the door in a corner….there are a bunch of plastic clips holding it on. Don't worry if a couple of them break you can order a few new ones for a couple bucks... No problem.

    3. Once you get the panel popped out some, you need to disconnect the power window cable, power mirror cable, and door and lock controls so you can completely remove the panel. (cables have a little clip on the back of them, squeeze it to unlock and remove) (Door and lock metal rods have a plastic retainer, gently turn them and then easily pull out of their respective holes)

    4. Remove the speaker (4 screws and unplug connector)

    5. Remove the plastic cover (I had a black plastic cover under the door panel and it was attached with some black rubber like glue. The glue is none drying so if you remove it carefully, a little at a time it will stay on the plastic and you can re use it.

    6. Where the window comes through the top of the door or ...the part that your arm rests on if you hang your arm out the open window....there are 2 rubber seals that the window comes up between when it’s raised. Remove the inner one (towards the inside of the car) you can pry it up and it will pop out. Be sure to save the 2 sponge looking things that are under each end if your model has them.

    7. Take out the 2 clips that hold the window to the regulator. You will have to reach inside the door and pull them out, one on the left and right...no problem.

    8. Window removal: Once you have removed the clips holding the window to the regulator you have to gently work the two window “nipples” out of the regulator holes. Once you have it up a little past the regulator window holding piece…turn the window so that the rear of it is up and comes out first….then work it upwards to remove it from the door. It should come out easily, if not take a break because you don’t want to buy glass too.

    9. Unplug the power window cable from the window motor (located in the center of the door)

    10. Remove screws that hold the regulator and the window motor to the inside of the door (I think there were 4 regulator screws and 3 holding the motor, they are different sizes) they are the only screws left.

    11. Push the window motor cable inside the door, then tilt the entire unit from it’s up and down position to a horizontal left-right position. I then patiently fed it through the hole at the bottom right side of the door…under the hole where the speaker used to be.

    12. Once out remove 2 screws? (I can’t remember but you will see) to remove the window motor from the regulator. Clean off the surface of the window motor and attach it to the new regulator. If you buy the regulator from http://www.powerupauto.com/Jeep1.html like I did, it comes with basic instruction on how to connect the motor to the regulator.

    Install in reverse.
  • 07-18-2006, 22:58
    JTPA
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by binzca
    I had the same problems and had the fuel pump replaced all because a 15 cents rubber gasket. The problem is because this gasket, air goes into the fuel line which causes the fuel to drain back to the gas tank, this is why you have to crank the engine multiple times until you have fuel to start the car. It is amazing that one has to get a new fuel pump which cost over 300 Dollars just because a 15 cebt rubber gasket has failed. This is American Technology !!!!

    Don't waste your money on the fuel pump. A lot of vehicles' fuel pumps run and bring the fuel line up to pressure when the key is in the "On" position. I'm not sure for all Grand Cherokees, but at least the '99 group needs to see a crank signal to run the fuel pump. Cranking it for a second, then waiting a few seconds and cranking again always works for me. You shouldn't need to crank it many times, just once and give it time to come up to pressure.
  • 07-19-2006, 14:38
    trish
    2004 JGC Laredo
    i just recently have encountered a problem with my '04 GC Laredo. two days ago i got in to go to work and it started up fine, but the interior lights stayed on- even when I shut off the car (a wonderful monday to start my week). I re-closed all the doors and the lights still wouldn't go off. I turned on the car again and i realized I couldn't roll down the window. From the driver's side panel, I couldn't move any of the side mirrors, any of the windows, nor engage the lock. i popped out the fuse to the interior lights and put it back in, now the interior lights work fine. when I get out and use the fob to lock the car, all the doors lock except the driver side door. no whirring of a motor when I hit the buttons, nothing. the dealership told me it could be a $270 part by their best guess, but is it something I could do at home for much cheaper? though the a/c works fine, the gas mileage is even more horrendous now and I'm ready to get rid of this thing... once i can get it in sellable condition.
    any help?

    -trish
  • 07-20-2006, 14:05
    raincrow
    97 GCL--front end scoot?
    I have a 97 GCL, bought used 3 yrs ago. Can relate to brake poblems, tried to have the old ones turned, but shop couldn't do, so bought new rotors. Then my pads overheated, replaced the calipers. problem solved, I think, haha. ABS light comes on sometimes, maybe flushing brake fluid might help. Now, the front end. Have thought about this scooting thing when turning sharp in i.e. parking lots. People standing close are very frightened. I have selec-trac, and the 4 wheel high doesnt work, but 4 wheel low does. I'm leaning toward vacuum swithc on the transfer case. If it isn't fully disengaged, sounds like it could be the culprit. Any comments would be gladly received.
  • 07-21-2006, 20:28
    jeep owner
    Window regulator problem
    I too have had both front window regulators go out on my 2003 model. Unfortunately when one piece breaks you have to purchase the whole regulator.:cryin: It will cost you over $300.00 if you go to the dealer. I found a place that speacializes in windows and paid under $300.00. Have you had any problems, or anyone else who might read this thread, with the rpm jumping and not being able to accelerate with the pedal to the floor and at times your vehicle dying as well as the engine light on? Well, I have experienced this and it was corrected for a short time by replacing the tps sensor I believe, and fixing a short in the wiring that was causing the sensor to burn up. It continued to do the same thing so I took it back in and they replaced the sensor again and no relief. The third time they had the wiring pulled and working on it and they said that we needed a new harness. It seems to be running fine now I am just waiting to see for how long hopefully a good while. Any feedback or input? I would love to hear it.:idea:
  • 07-22-2006, 04:48
    Ernest
    2002 Cherokee window problem
    I have contacted Chrysler about the same problem with my 2002 Grande Cherokee.

    Early May, my Driver Front Passenger window fell as a passenger was rolling up the window. A loud pop, then it dropped. Service rep at dealer described problem as a plastic part that wears and fails. Said it was worse with extreme temp changes. Living in central Tx, one tends to get upper 90s,100s this time of year. Service rep said this happens often. $430 later, I'm on my way.

    This past Monday, July 17th, I'm at work, left windows cracked as it as the temps have been topping 100 here. Once I get on the road, I roll the windows up ... and POP .. .there goes the front driver side window. Same dealership, different service rep. This one knew the problem as soon as I mentioned pop and drop. Told him how I had just been there two months ago for same problem on passenger side. He went on and on about how the problem happens all to often, how expensive it was. Even mentioned that Chrysler should just issue a recall and fix the problem. No offer to assist with cost though, just told me to hold on to the receipts.

    I called Chrysler on Tuesday, July 18, reported a problem, got a "Reference #". The rep said he'd research and call me back. Friday, July 21, I called back to get the status. Another rep pulled up the ticket and had to consult with the original agent. Seems like the agent had not been about to contact the dealership for details. Huh? When I picked up the Jeep, the service rep mentioned that Chrysler had contacted them regarding my problem.

    Now, I have no confidence in the vehicle. Fortunately, I've be around home/work when this happens. Have a garage at home, no problem leaving windows open at work, weather permitting. But, now worried that if I'm travelling, or just going to the grocery store, dinner, etc. I may have to leave my Jeep in a parking lot with window rolled down, or change my plans and head back home.

    Sorry for the long post, but just acknowleding my problem and venting.
  • 07-22-2006, 12:54
    susers
    Window fell into door panel
    Just today as I was rolling down front passenger window, the glass went down into the door panel and will not come back up. Electrical stills work but glass must be off frame. Need help...dealerships in Denver want $430 and $480 respectively to fix. Sounds awfully high to me...what can I do? Any help/guidance appreciated.
    Susan
    sussandoz@aol.com
  • 07-23-2006, 05:24
    Ernest
    Did you hear a fairly loud "pop" at anytime prior?

    You may have a power window "regulator" that failed, apparently a known problem. In my case the dealership charged $226 for the part, the rest was labor, totaling around $430 each time.
  • 07-24-2006, 10:43
    julyjack
    GC widow problems
    I have a 2003 GC and yesterday the passenger window went down and refuses to go back up. I assume after seeing the notes on this site I now have a $400.00 problem. What a piece of junk if this is indeed the case! I have not experienced the front brakes issue that I've seen posted here but I can only assume that's next. Is there any help if this Jeep is so called "certified"?
  • 07-27-2006, 04:14
    chloetar
    2000 GC Laredo problems/resolutions
    Hi, I have a 2000 Laredo with 97,000 miles that was purchased new. As with many others, the brakes were shot and replaced and upgraded under warranty. Once at 9,000 and once at 32,000. Since then, I did a complete brake job at 65,000.

    Also, the power door lock somehow disengaged and it cost me $175.00 to fix.

    My transmission started to buck and hunt one day (about85,000) and the check engine light came on. The code was injector #8 problem. I called the dealer and he told me to run some injector cleaner in there and clean the TB and IAC valve.

    I did what the dealer told me and there have been no problems since. My Jeep has been a great vehicle, the oil has been changed regularly, tranny flushed twice, ready for three w/filter replacement, tranfer case maintained as well as diffs. The vehicle is off-road a lot because we have a farm and it has towed all of it's life.

    If you just put gas in and drive, all vehicles will break. Am I lucky, I don't know, but $175 in unplanned repairs over 6 years does not seem like a bad run.


    For those with the tranny problems, try cleaning the TB and IAC valve with TB cleaner. I think that may be one of the big problems people run into. A can of TB cleaner is about 4 bucks a new trans is about 3000.

    Good Luck

    P.S. the radio and CD player do suck. (Infinity Gold)