Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo Problems

I own a 2001 Grand Cherokee An I have had to replace 5 window regulators. Chrysler will not admit that have a defect in the regulator design.

my 1996 grand cherokee jeep 4x4 with 150k.in the mornings when i take off,the engine rev's high before going into 2 gear and it's not smooth transition.once ti warms up it's ok.

Im very new to this forum, and I have to admin that since I purchased my 2000 Grand Cherokee i've had problems. And one of them that i have right now, is that im loosing coolant rather quickly. I sent it to a mechanic to fix the problem. The coolant was infiltrating to the oil, making the oil milky white, and everytime i accelerated i would hear a water flow noise on the right passenger side, where the coolant was going to the oil. Since I fixed it, that sound was gone, and thought that i wasn't going to happen anymore, but now, no water flow noise but coolant is still leaking somewhere. My question is this, does anyone have any suggestions or anything that could explain to me what the problem could be?????? Why im I loosing so much coolant so rapidly?

Does anyone know a good source for after-market replacement window regulators and motors that will really fit?

We have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it is having problems with the lights in the rear. At night when you turn the lights on the brake lights nor the tail lights work. We have checked the fuses and we arent sure what is the matter. We have the extended warranty on the car but Daimler Chrysler will not fix it becasue it is not covered under that warranty. If anyone could help please contact me via email at bjc3121991@aol.com. Anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Sounds like a Transmission output sensor, TPS or a Governor pressure switch.

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Originally Posted by mightypuckett

I have 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee that suddenly shifts the overdrive off after driving at highway speed for about an hour. This in turn overheats the transmission (which I have recently had the fluid changed). If I drive less than 55 mph then this doesn't happen. When the overdrive shifts off and I push the button on the gear shift it won't shut off. Any thoughts?

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Had the exact problem with my Ford mustang, and after spending $400 at the dealer with no fix, i went to a friends mechanic, and a new trasmission fixed the whole problem, have been ok for 27,000 miles now.

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Originally Posted by sks6221

Does anyone know a good source for after-market replacement window regulators and motors that will really fit?

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Window regulator replacement, if the motor is making a sound when you press the window button it's good. Just replace the regulator!

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This is a response to my previous write-up

I ordered my new regulator from power up auto. http://www.powerupauto.com/ for 40+ dollars. I checked the site today and the price has already gone up to 90$. You can also get a regulator from Monsterautoparts.com. The price is still not too bad and I got it within a few days.I recommend that you send a email to them to confirm you are ordering the right one for your year vehicle.

INSTRUCTIONS:
It is easy to remove once you figure it out or have instructions...Remember, don’t try to use your window while it’s broke or you will burn up the electric motor. I taped the window in the up position until I got my new regulator.

1. Remove the door panel (3 screws: one in armrest and one near rearview mirror and last one is a hex head located in the door handle well)

2. Pop door panel off easily using a wide flat tip screw driver or something that’s plastic, thin and wide to prevent scratching… start popping it off at the bottom of the door in a corner….there are a bunch of plastic clips holding it on. Don't worry if a couple of them break you can order a few new ones for a couple bucks... No problem.

3. Once you get the panel popped out some, you need to disconnect the power window cable, power mirror cable, and door and lock controls so you can completely remove the panel. (cables have a little clip on the back of them, squeeze it to unlock and remove) (Door and lock metal rods have a plastic retainer, gently turn them and then easily pull out of their respective holes)

4. Remove the speaker (4 screws and unplug connector)

5. Remove the plastic cover (I had a black plastic cover under the door panel and it was attached with some black rubber like glue. The glue is none drying so if you remove it carefully, a little at a time it will stay on the plastic and you can re use it.

6. Where the window comes through the top of the door or ...the part that your arm rests on if you hang your arm out the open window....there are 2 rubber seals that the window comes up between when it’s raised. Remove the inner one (towards the inside of the car) you can pry it up and it will pop out. Be sure to save the 2 sponge looking things that are under each end if your model has them.

7. Take out the 2 clips that hold the window to the regulator. You will have to reach inside the door and pull them out, one on the left and right...no problem.

8. Window removal: Once you have removed the clips holding the window to the regulator you have to gently work the two window “nipples” out of the regulator holes. Once you have it up a little past the regulator window holding piece…turn the window so that the rear of it is up and comes out first….then work it upwards to remove it from the door. It should come out easily, if not take a break because you don’t want to buy glass too.

9. Unplug the power window cable from the window motor (located in the center of the door)

10. Remove screws that hold the regulator and the window motor to the inside of the door (I think there were 4 regulator screws and 3 holding the motor, they are different sizes) they are the only screws left.

11. Push the window motor cable inside the door, then tilt the entire unit from it’s up and down position to a horizontal left-right position. I then patiently fed it through the hole at the bottom right side of the door…under the hole where the speaker used to be.

12. Once out remove 2 screws? (I can’t remember but you will see) to remove the window motor from the regulator. Clean off the surface of the window motor and attach it to the new regulator. If you buy the regulator from http://www.powerupauto.com/Jeep1.html like I did, it comes with basic instruction on how to connect the motor to the regulator.

Install in reverse.

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Originally Posted by wks2001

Hello everyone, It's 7am on a Saturday and I'm about to head back to the job to again try to get my 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo to start before calling the tow man for the 3rd time ths year for this piece of crap.

Problem is a bit diff from all others on this forum and I hope it's not one in waiting for any of you. My car won't start because I can't turn the ignition key to start it. the steering lock mechanism is frozen. And believe me when I say it's frozen - IT"S FROZEN!. I've been working on it for the past 4 days. Before work, during lunch, and after work to no avail. and believe me I've tried all the commonly known suggestions - that's not it.

If anyone on here has any suggestions or have had similar problems with the locking mechanism, please respond asap! Before I forcefully break the %$#@ thing myself and have to repalce the whole ignition assembly.

Oh yeah, I've have the passenger window regulator issue - propped it up with a piece of 2x2 for now. Ordering repalcement from Monsterparts.com for 89.00. Guess I better start sawing off another one for the driver side after reading you all's posts.

also hood has to be propped up - 1 month after i purchased it went out.

A suggestion for tailight issue - both my right side braking and tailights went out on both sides - replacement bulbs fixed driver side but not braking on right. Turns out the leads were being shorted out in the bulb compartment. If u open it you may see burn marks on the plastic housing next to the leads. Temporary fix - turn the knob slowly as if removing it - back and forth and I bet u will see the light come on. you may also want to swap the bulb housings to see if one fit is better than the other. It's been working for me for about 2 months now.

Miracleously, haven't had the brake issue come up yet. I think they are just going to completely fall apart one day. One things for sure, my daughter will not be driving this hunk of junk when she gets her license in FEB. I will not trust my love ones to this piece of crap!

For them only the Toyota Camry will do.

I'm going to go out an get me an old nineties Honda or Toyota for under a grand somewhere and get back my piece of mind,

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Take the plastic cover off from around the ignition switch or lay in the driver side floor and look up into the steering column on the opposite side of the ignition switch. The cable from the shifter connects in there...it may be jammed. If not the problem then you need to pull the ignition switch, it craped out on you.

:mad2: I have been back to the dealer three times for the same thing, It just dosen't start. They have replaced the module and battery in July that was the second time I had visited the dealer with the problem. Now last week Jan. 5th I was back with the same problem, they cant figure out the problem so they just changed the battery! I have been considering contacting a attorney.

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Originally Posted by gcuser

I have Jeep GC 2006, it has electrical problems, display sudenly starts flashing like crazy.
On 2 autorized dealerships they cannot find out the cause of this problem. Anyone has the same issues?

Thanks,

gcuser

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Originally Posted by littlebiggy3

:confused:
I have a 1994 Jeep GC Laredo V8 5.4L and have experienced loud clunking noises coming from both the front and back end while turning. It seems to be worse once the car has been driven at highway speed for 20 min or more. I'm not sure what this noise could possibly be, but I not only hear the noise, but feel the car sort of pull or chug while turning. I have had two mechanics tell me that this is normal for 4x4 vehicles; I personally have never driven one before so do not know. I do realize that my Jeep is all time 4x4, but this noise and motion that the car makes when turning does not feel like something that could be normal. I was just wondering if it is, and if it is not a common occurence, then what it could be.

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I also own a 94 limited and had the exact same issue. The dealer was of no help at all ( you think they would be the experts ) and after a couple of different mechanics looking at it I was sent to a guy by a buddy who found it to be the viscus coupler located in the transfer case. This corrected the problem but was very expensive. I also saw a slight improvement in my gas mileage. P.S. had the jeep for 11 years now and I love it !

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Originally Posted by SAConnors

I too have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee, but the V6 version.

A few months back I experienced a similar problem where the car was idling low (around 500-600 RPMs) at a stoplight and then just shut off. It was running without problem for the 15 minutes prior to this. I restarted the car (after a few tries) and was able to get home by ensuring that I kept the RPM's above 700 or so. After talking with some people who know something about cars, I had the fuel filter replaced and also went ahead and had the fuel injection system cleaned. All of this was only about $70. This seemed to solve the problem for a few months.

About a month ago the car started acting up again. After struggling to start up it would immediately shutoff. The only way I could get it to start and remain running was to give it gas while engaging the starter. After it started I would again keep the RPM's above 700 and then sit there for a little while. Eventually (2-5 minutes later) I could remove my foot from the accelerator and the car would remain idling around 700 RPM's. The car would run fine as long as it was moving, but when it was stopped it was having difficulty idling. It didn't completely shut off, but the RPM's would waver between 500 and 700. Anytime it got near 500 it would get close to shutting down. This was the case for a few weeks.

Last week the car finely had enough and shut off a few times when I was at stoplights. I decided it wasn't worth driving around and have left it parked in the garage until I decided what to do. Today I searched a few sites with recommendations for stalling cars and tried a few things. One thing I tried was to see if the computer was outputting an error code that could be the problem. I went the key turning process to get the odometer to display the error code, but it just said "done", indicating that there were no codes. So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer and then reconnected and tried to drive the car. At first it seemed like things were getting better because the car would idle around 1000 RPM's. However, after just a few minutes it went back to idling around 700 RPM's and then it started dropping to 500 and below. At that point it was about to shut off and I kept it revved so I could get back home. So resetting the computer didn't work. There was also a recommendation to disconnect the MAP sensor and see what happens, so I did that and nothing changed. Still no good.

I saw this post and it sounded very similar to what was happening to my car. I thought I might be able to add some more detail in case someone had a brilliant idea. :idea: I too do not want to replace the fuel pump if possible because it is a costly repair due to the fact that the fuel tank has to be removed to change the pump. I am curious to see if changing the throttle position sensor will have any effect, but I don't know how to do that. Is it easy? Is there a website with details on where it is or how to do it?

Please let me know of anything you find out and I will do likewise. Thanks...

(For the record, I too have replaced both front window regulators. The first time I did it myself but paid the ridiculous $237 price tag for the part. The worst part was that the dealership made me pay $4 a piece for those crappy green plastic tabs that are gauranteed to break when you take the door apart. I was appalled. The second time I bought the regulator for $90 from the monsterautoparts.com site and did it myself in under an hour. Sorry to see that so many are having the same problems with there Jeeps.)

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I had a Dodge Dakota that did this until it was undrivable, it ended up being the MAP sensor. If you disconnect the MAP sensor it should run awful, if it didnt change how it ran it may be the bad part. The Throttle Position Sensor is easy to change out. Go to your local parts store and purchase a repair manual for your vehicle if you are serious about doing this easy TPS replacement.

I've just about had it with this one!! I am having a problem with the overdrive lockout switch. When I start the car, the OD off light should come on briefly then go out. Sometimes the light comes on and stays on, and the car starts out in second gear, feeling like the tranny is slipping. The governer pressure solenoid and governer pressure transducer swtches along with a wiring harness have all been replaced yet the problem lives on. Has anyone had the same problem?? Any suggestions other than driving it off a cliff ??

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Originally Posted by jank

We have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a whopping 19,000 + miles on it. At 13,000 miles and still under warranty the brakes were replaced because of the pulsing problem. Rotors. Now, 6,000 miles later, it is starting again. Called the dealer who admitted the problem and said that Chrysler knows about it. Obviously. This fix is on us - money wise. And I was told that it was no problem as far as safety. Can that be? Any recourse?

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My 2002 has window problems, two have fallen down.Dealership wants 400.00 per window to repair.This a two wheel drive model that has never been off road.

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Originally Posted by lilbuddy

I've just about had it with this one!! I am having a problem with the overdrive lockout switch. When I start the car, the OD off light should come on briefly then go out. Sometimes the light comes on and stays on, and the car starts out in second gear, feeling like the tranny is slipping. The governer pressure solenoid and governer pressure transducer swtches along with a wiring harness have all been replaced yet the problem lives on. Has anyone had the same problem?? Any suggestions other than driving it off a cliff ??

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You said you changed the governer pressure solenoid.

Did you change the Governor pressure sensor?

If you did check the $30 part.... The Transmission output sensor may be the problem.

Go to this address to see and read about it

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...lr%3D%26sa%3DG

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Originally Posted by ArmyGuy01

You said you changed the governer pressure solenoid.

Did you change the Governor pressure sensor?

If you did check the $30 part.... The Transmission output sensor may be the problem.

Go to this address to see and read about it

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...lr%3D%26sa%3DG

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I printed out some info from that link and I am going to take it to the repair shop that's been trying to fix it!:thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by Tom Mazzucca

My 2002 has window problems, two have fallen down.Dealership wants 400.00 per window to repair.This a two wheel drive model that has never been off road.

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It's a shame that Chrysler/Jeep doesn't repair faulty parts for free and it should be a crime that they continue to use them year after year. Look up my post on broken window regulators for instructions and locations to buy them...I believe you can still buy one for $80.00 - $100.00 and put it in within 1 1/2 hours. Don't give your hard earned money to Chrysler/Jeep. I am currently researching how to make the end pieces out of another material so they don't break anymore, will post when I have it completed.

I do not have any idea what all of you are talking about with these jeep cherokee problems. I own a 97 jeep grand cherokee laredo-inline 6 cylinder- and it has been a champ. I have never had any problems (mine has 150,000 miles on it). The only thing I have had to replace was the tires, brake pags and rotors, and oil.

[QUOTE=POinCO]
5. Most recently, the engine comes very close to dying while cruising at freeway speeds then picks back up, again. Today, it started, drove 5 feet, died and refused to start, again. It's in the shop. I'll update this posting with the results.


my jeep did the same thing just the other day it was running fine i never had any problem with it at all then it just died and wont start at all!!! i checked for fire but no fire i was just wondering what might be wrong? i just hope it aint the computer any ideas let me know

I just purchased a replacement window regulator for 65.00 with 6 moth warrenty fm Greenleaf salavage for my 1998 grand cherokee cost me 40.00 to have it put in 1-21-07

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Originally Posted by wmercer

I also have same type of front end clunking noise as mentioned in this forum, when at very slow speeds/parking lot turns in my 94 ZJ Jeep. Still chasing the problem. Hopefully we can find answers here. thanks in advance.

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This sounds like one of your front axles is shot. I've replaced them on (2 different) honda civics in about 2 hrs. and I'm no mechanic. Never done one in a Jeep before, but my Jeep is making said clunk (same sound I heard in the honda civic) while turning in a tight space. I took it to a local shop and he confirmed it was the axle. They quoted me $300 for the repair.
Someone had posted illustrated instructins on how to replace the civic's axles online.. I can't find similar dirs for the jeep online tho.

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Originally Posted by thehim

Im very new to this forum, and I have to admin that since I purchased my 2000 Grand Cherokee i've had problems. And one of them that i have right now, is that im loosing coolant rather quickly. I sent it to a mechanic to fix the problem. The coolant was infiltrating to the oil, making the oil milky white, and everytime i accelerated i would hear a water flow noise on the right passenger side, where the coolant was going to the oil. Since I fixed it, that sound was gone, and thought that i wasn't going to happen anymore, but now, no water flow noise but coolant is still leaking somewhere. My question is this, does anyone have any suggestions or anything that could explain to me what the problem could be?????? Why im I loosing so much coolant so rapidly?

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I have the same issue right now. i blew my upper radiator hose back in August (06), so when I saw I was leaking coolant again, I naturally figured the lower had gone (it is common that they last fairly equal amounts of time). I bought the hose and got it home. But on closer inspection, it isn't the hose. But coolant literally runs out of the system onto the floor when i pour it in the radiator. I can't quite see where it is coming from (and i tried to see with a small mirror). My best guess is the water pump's shot.If it is, it is coming from where it mounts to the engine. All I can see is the the source of the leak is back behind the pump's front pulley. So when I pour water/antifreeze into the radiator's fill spout, it flows down thru the radiator, out thru the bottom radiator hose and up to the pump and somewhere after this, it leaks. I'm just hoping it is the water pump and not a cracked head.
Now the pulley's on the front of the engine are making an periodic loud squeak-like noise. I have no heat in the car (I'm guessing because there is never any water/antifreeze in the heater to heat-up).

I love my jeep, but the issues are piling up now (132,000 miles).

[ ] transmission seems to be having issues. The car shifts gears very rough when it is colder outside (mornings, or in winter). Seems to go away once the car warms-up. I am usually able to feather the gas pedal to make the shifting smoother, but this is getting annoying. I was told i could flush the transmission to possibly fix, or thin the fluid by adding some kerosene.. But I have no idea how much and don't feel confident doing so.

[ ] I had the car won't start problem (and all electrical stuff inside the car wen't out). I changed my battery and voila. problem is gone... One thing I can say for anyone stuck on the side of the road though, is that if you have anything to pull the battery's wires with, do so. at least work them back and forth on the post for a minute. that will usually get you started (unless the battery is completely shot)

[ ] I'm losing oil at a fast pace (about 1 quart every 2 weeks. If i take a ride on the highway, I lose about 1 quart per hour). When I start my engine, I will occassionally get a huge puff of blue smoke. So I know either my cylindars are leaking oil, or my rocker-cover drain holes are plugged, or both. But I also found that the rubber gasket under the oil pan was bulging out of the seal in the front to the point where i could put a screwdriver behind it... I loosened all of the bolts that were easy to get at and pryed the pan down in the front very carefully and push the rubber gasket back under (it didn't appear to be torn). So far so good.

[ ] my rear-end makes abnormal noise. hhahaha.. that sounds funny. But seriously, the noise is hard to describe except to say that it is weird that i can hear the rear gear box at all. Dealer said this was acceptable. so far, it hasn't given me any problems (noise apreared before I bough tit at 33,000 miles. I'm now at 132,000)

[ ] vacuum pump is hsot or i have a leak in my vauum lines that control the air conditioning/heater... Started off that the heater or AC wouldl shift from the dash/floor to defroster when I hit the gas. Now it is stuck in the defroster setting.

[ ] My windshield was leaking severely for a while there. Weird thing was, I couldn't find the damned leak for a long time. I'd hit it with a hose and no water... But be out in th rain for a few minutes and my passenger side would leak under the dash. Turned-out to be plugged drain holes under the wiper arm compartments.. remove he wiper arms from their posts. open your hood and pull-up the grill (1st remove the little plugs that hold them on). on each side, there are large drain holes. you need to clean-out the smaller drain holes in the comparment below using the large drain holes here for access. I found the most effective tool for doing this was the air-compressor with a 2 foot chunk of soft copper tubing (the kind that you hook up the refrigerator's ice maker with). I stuck the copper tube on my air-chuck thing and put that down through the big drain holes and blew out the area underneath that I couldn't see. Problem solved. The area you can't see down there has smaller drain holes that plug-up more easily.

[ ] i had my shifter worked on back in 2001 as part of a recall. I noticed about a year later that my jeep was no longer able to stay in 4W-low anymore (used to work before the 'fixed' it). I'll go about 2 feet and it pops out of gear into neutral. Works if I hold it in gear

[ ] I go through tires quickly and always pay the extra $$ for re-aligments with every tire rotation. The alignments always come-back as not that far out of whack too.

[ ] I've only replaced my rotors once (since 1998). My front right axle is shot at the moment and makes a loud clunking noise when I turn hard turns. Was an easy job, but you do need something to squeeze the calipers back with (I used a small anvil vice).

[ ] the damned rear-door pistons don't hold the door up.. I have a friggin piece of wood I use to keep it up. Funny thing is, is that my father in law has a jeep and also keeps a stick in it to hold the door up! I guess this is a problem with most gull-wing style doors tho.

[ ] cupholders suck. All of them. the tall rinks you get at any fast-food place will fall out if not held while driving. I opted for the between-the-legs method. I used a rolll of packing tape for a while, but lost it when it clung to a fiend's drink once... I was home before i realized and the knuckle-head used the tape before I got it back. that worked pretty well though.

2000 - 2004 i think Sine up!

http://www.lawyersandsettlements.com/case/dccorp

Do you guys know if the 8cyl or the 6 has the faulty heads/engine?:rolleyes:

Was, buying a 2001 Limited 2wd 8cyl for $7500, but now don't think so, thanks to you guys. I loved my 95 ???

WHATS THE GAS MILAGE - 6 and 8???

Is it's ac evaporator is buy the $800 heater core?

fyi ---the evaperaton drain tube plugs/floods! the 1995 body styles, check the fire wall leaf screen security/edge and tube on floor gets kicked off, seems like I drilled frame to acess/find it drains in fram! and cleared with blower insted of ripping car apart.. Don't know about 00-04s.

Hi! Just Sighned Up In Need Of Help With 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee And Check Gauges Light Comes On And Oil Pressure Gauge Goes Down. We Have Replaced The Oil Pump,filter, And Gasket! Any Other Owners With Advice Appreciated Or Any Recommeddations Feel Free!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey - this is my first post - I'm glad to find others out there in similar situations :

I've owned my 2001 JEEP GC for a few years now, bought it used, with 32,000 and purchased an extended warranty for 3yrs/36K. Currently, I have 74,000 miles on it.
I love the vehicle and I find it very practical for my everyday use.

1. I've experienced one widow regulator failure/front passngr side which after a heated verbal exchange with the dealer, was covered under the extended warranty for $50 out of pocket.

2. I have also had an experience with the electrical system apparently malfunctioning -
the dash lights and needles would go crazy, the engine would stop and then restart while at idle speeds or slightly higher. Also, I would occasionally turn the ignition key to crank and nothing would happen. The fuses were all checked and a service center ran a test on the alternator and engine and couldn't find anything wrong. These problems persisted for about a week or two before the vehicle just wouldnt start one morning and had to be towed. I was told the problem was possibly a bad ground wire from the battery, and/or potential faulty alarm system and that my current battery was in need of replacement. The service center replaced my battery with one that I was told had a higher capacity than the one I had before, and so far - there has been no problem with any of those issues again. < about 18 months ago >

3. I have had one set of new rotors and brake pads installed since purchase, about 8 months ago, and just recently have had to have the rotors turned due to some warping.
I received a letter from D/C Jeep in regards to the class action lawsuit, but according to my understanding I was not eligible to opt into the lawsuit because I was not the original owner, nor had I had to replace any brake parts while under the original warranty. I never responded to the letter. Received a second letter, didn't answer back on that one either.

4. Last week, a routine oil change revealed a LEAKING rear wheel seal, on the passenger side.... AND a loose/faulty fan clutch under the hood. Service center replaced the wheel bearing and the seal, and a new fan clutch. Car came out of shop on Friday night at 7pm. 02/09/07

5. SAT/SUN/MON -- my temperature control gauge for the AC/HEAT has stopped working, nothing but HOT and i mean HOT air comes out of the vents regardless of where the dial is on blue/red. I had noticed in the past, that when i ran the HEAT at a level other than MAX, if I turned the dial back to Blue, to cool the air down, that occasionally the dial would have to be turned to MAX on heat/red, then immediately MAX on cold/blue, almost like a combination safe, before the temp would drop for the air coming from the vents.
I'm going to contact the service center to see if this can be related to the fan clutch repair... will have to update on that.

thanks!

[QUOTE=ignagonza]Hi ever one...

My 96 JGC just die on me. I was driving at 70 miles per hour and suddenly all gauges and the engine went dead...Radio and accesories work fine...I stopped and tried to start the engine again but, after crancking a few times I gave up. Wait for the tow truck and now I have no car...

Any Ideas...!!!????[/QUOTE Hello I had the same promblem with my 96 jgc was driving and went dead. I do most of my work myself on my jgc. but had took it to a repair shop, found out that it was the CRANK SHAFT SENSOR. If this fails you could trying starting it all day it still wont start, the part cost about $90 bucks, I do suggest that the part comes from the jeep dealer , they tryed putting after market part on it first never worked correctly. it would start but when driving it would jerk like riding a rodeo bull. After I request jeep part only worked fine never had a promblem . I hope this helps

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Originally Posted by mpls31

I had this issue on my 1994 at about 50K miles. I ended up replacing the viscous coupler. What is that? About $1300 bucks with labor. The dealer said Jeeps were notorious for this at low miles. I haven't had any problems with it since. I had a flat, and being a full time 4x4, with a smaller tire on one of the 3, it was virtually inoperable. I could not go over 5 miles per hour. Fortunately, my tire dealer was less than a mile away. I had to drive on the shoulder and let the spare spin out in the gravel. The minute I tried hard pavement, the vehicle hopped and pounded--just like the turn in the parking lot. I did make it to the tire shop---and ended up replacing the coupler within the month. Still not sure whether driving on the mini spare forced the coupler out, or if it was out to begin with and that's why I couldn't drive on it.

The dealer told me there was a recall on Jeeps 1995 to 1999 that were full time 4x4's to replace the minispare---as everyone knows, full time 4x4 does not work well when you have one tire of smaller size. For some reason, the recall didn't apply to my 1994 model and I was left to fight my debate with Jeep. I tried to claim it as a saftey issue, since I was immobile in my situation. Jeep said tough luck. And after telling them "well, I just bought my last Jeep" they dismissively said, "well sir, you have that right as a consumer." nevertheless, I ended up buying a 2000 to go along with my 1994 a few months later and....

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I agree with this guy on the viscous coupler being the problem. Big bucks. Get the seal replaced when you do it. Problem is less during the cold winter days.

I am new to this form. I own a 2001 GCJ 4x4 4.0. Had it for a year. But reading most of the posts you all seem to have many different problems but all related. The breaks were a mistake by Jeep who fit the wrong type of small truck unit to the spindle. Most like mine have been replaced by the Akiebdo (JAP SP?) These do not vibrate and heat as bad. The only problem you all seem to not have is the problem with the driver or passenger eight way seats breaking away from the floor of the car. No I did not have and accident.:thumbsup: My daughter was driving and she is not the biggest person you see. She came to a stop light and upon getting the green and pressing on the gas the seat just gave way. She was not in traffic and was able to regain control of the vehicle. She called me crying and I went and drove it back to our house. Upon inspection of the seat adjuster assembly I found that there were at least 45 cracks in the metal parts and welds used in its construction. Musta been made on a FRIDAY!! I am a machinist and have access to process that can detect flaws in metal. I went thru all the e-mailing and hageling with D.C and to make a long story short they will not replace the part. Which by the way costs 350.00 wholsale. Bottom line D.C dosen't give a CRAP about costomer saf tey! :mad2:
OH yea you people with the window thing....When you clean you vehicle make sure you do not spray water into the door (window down) or try to dry the window part way down. Pushing up on any automatic window half way opened will cause the cable inside to come off its "shiv". Just thougfht you reader might like to know that. Took me 112.00 and about 2 hours work to replace. Was kinda fun:blush2:

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Originally Posted by trish

i just recently have encountered a problem with my '04 GC Laredo. two days ago i got in to go to work and it started up fine, but the interior lights stayed on- even when I shut off the car (a wonderful monday to start my week). I re-closed all the doors and the lights still wouldn't go off. I turned on the car again and i realized I couldn't roll down the window. From the driver's side panel, I couldn't move any of the side mirrors, any of the windows, nor engage the lock. i popped out the fuse to the interior lights and put it back in, now the interior lights work fine. when I get out and use the fob to lock the car, all the doors lock except the driver side door. no whirring of a motor when I hit the buttons, nothing. the dealership told me it could be a $270 part by their best guess, but is it something I could do at home for much cheaper? though the a/c works fine, the gas mileage is even more horrendous now and I'm ready to get rid of this thing... once i can get it in sellable condition.
any help?

-trish

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I had the same exact problem today. Today the windows stopped working and the dome light stayed lite. Well, I'm a pretty good trouble shooter but this one took all day. First, I thought it was the Driver side control module. The Dealership even told me it was when I ask for help. I swapped it with a friends jeep and that was not the problem. Check all fuses and that wasn't it either. After 6 hours, I said the hell with it and put everything back together. Then I realized the door jamb had connectors in it. So I took that apart. The negative black wire was broken. I guess since the wire is so think (#12), the door jamb made the wire bend over and over again until it broke. I put a $.05 splice connector in it and it was fixed.
I hope this helps someone.

Hi - I scanned through some of the prior posts and may have missed a similar question, response - I apologize if this is a repeat.

The other day on the way home my Jeep started making a noise. It sounded like it was coming from the right front end. I turned off the defrost/fan to make sure it wasn't that.
It started out making a noise like when you spin a bicycle tire and then let the spokes flip against a card or something. Then it made a noise like if you were to blow something out of a pipe, sort of like a thump. Then it turned into a squeak/squeeling noise. It would continue if I took my foot off of the accelorator, but would slow down and stop as the Jeep slowed down and stopped. It seemed to get worse if I turned the wheel to the left.

Any ideas what this could be :confused:

Thanks

I just finished reading all the posts here, and I do feel lucky as a dog with a bone. My 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo is passing thru 289,000 miles on it and it drives like brand new. The one thing I learned early is DO NOT TAKE IT TO THE DEALER!!!
I go to the small shops and have been doing so for the last 13 years.:p If I went to the dealer every time I had a problem, I would've junked my car a long time ago.
ONE CLEAR EXAMPLE: :10: I received a coupon in the mail from Chrysler Jeep for a transmission oil change. My transmission was perfectly fine! But I'll do it anyway and leave the car with them. I get the car back and 15 miles out of the dealer, the transmission starts shifting from first to overdrive, skipping 2nd and 3rd!!!! At a stop sign, I needed to pull the lever back to first just to get going again. Also, the overdrive off button did not illuminate anymore. I went back immediately and asked them about it. Of course "would you like to make an appointment?" Hell no!!
They said my overdrive solenoid was "shot" and the button doesn't stay in because it doesn't "click" anymore. Ha Ha Ha, engineers know that it's a momentary-on button.
I was perplexed and felt a sad loss. So a year later, I pulled into my local Aamco transmission shop for a fluid change. GET THIS!!! 10 miles from the Aamco shop, everything starts working perfectly normal again...no codes, button lights up and the tranny shifts like new. WHATEVER THE "DEALER " PUT INTO MY TRANSMISSION CAUSED IT TO STOP FUNCTIONING PROPERLY, AAMCO PUT IN THE RIGHT FLUID AND IT STARTED TO WORK AGAIN! IF I LET THE DEALER WORK ON MY CAR, THEY WOULD'VE SCREWED IT UP EVEN MORE AND TAKE ENORMOUS AMOUNTS OF MONEY FROM ME.:mad2: But I didn't let them.:thumbsup:
I love my 93 Jeep V8, and this week I'm buying a '96 Limited V8. The 98-04's just don't have the smooth ride as does the first generation units.
I wish you all luck, and never let the dealers work on your brakes. They use the cheapest parts available and that's why your brakes warp!!!!!!!

Well I first came to this site looking for information on replacing my cracked Exaust Manifold. But realized the many other issues I share with other owners.

1) I seem to be having intermittent eletrical problems with the lights. Seems to only happen at night - go figure thats when the lights are on. Any way they go beserk flashing off and on (I feel like I am in a cop car trying to pull some one over) Not sure what has possesed my JGC but the Dealership here dosen't think their is a problem because they can't reproduce it. (I said it was Intermitent) Any Ideas out there.

2) Along those same lines of intermitent problems when I first start my jeep cold (left all night) or Hot (just ran into the store for a second) the darn thing won't hold an idle and just dies. If I apply a little gas am manually keep it running after 30 - 180 seconds it holds on it's own. Again dealership has no answers since they can't seem to reproduce the problem. Also worth noting is that the problem occured more often whan my battery needed replacing and at this time would take longer to hold an idle. Any Ideas out there?

3) As I mentioned above I do currently have a Cracked Exaust manifold which is quite loud when I start my Jeep. Anyone have a good Idea on a fair price for replacement, also any recomended replacement part?

BTW here is a list of the things I have had to have replaced in the 7 Years I have had the Jeep.
1 Transmition($2500), 1 Radio($500), 1 Radiator($300), 1 RD window switch, and 1 FD Door Lock Actuator($150), 1 Battery(??), 1 Fuel Pump(??), a Front Differential Plug($20). 1 Break replacement and roter repair(??), and several sets of tires(??). I have had my Jeep for 6 years and am quite happy with this fairly short list of fixes on a vehicle with over 118,000 miles, I would like to keep the thing so any help with the above mentioned problems would be greatly appriciated.

I am also new to the forum, but happened to be looking on google for an answer to my question about some things, and came across this. I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and bought it back in September. I haven't had too many problems out of it, other than dealing with it making a funny noise when accelerating (sort of like the noise explained earlier with the bike spokes and card) and it making a sound like blowing whenever I turn off the car, I can't really explain it. I've also dealt with the issue of my interior lights staying on when I am driving. I got fed up with it and didn't know what to do, so I just took the fuse out and do without my interiors. My Jeep has 250,000 miles on it, but other than these and the next issue, I've had no problems. It's in great shape, too.
A current issue I am focused on is the fact that (like a lot of others on here) my driver side window continues to fall out of track whenever I roll it down. It's automatic, so it's rougher to fix I guess. I got a quote on the part they said I'd need and they said it would be 118 bucks, but I am looking to see if I can find it cheaper, and if it's even the right thing. I think he said it was a regulator. I am worried that the window will break if I continue to use it. Any suggestions?

I have a 2001 JGC Laredo with cloth seats. Every time I get out of the vehicle it shocks the ever loving crap out of me when I touch the door to close it. Does anyone else have this static electricity problem? If so, what did you do to fix it? BTW, I also have every other problem in this thread, it seems, from the crappy brakes to a passenger side window that is being held up with Duct Tape.:mad2: Oh, did I mention, I HATE THIS JEEP!!!!! :mad:

I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 4.0L V-6. The truck itself has 153,000 but the engine has 63,000. Anyway, I have problems every now and then with the vehicle not wanting to shift out of 1st. Only does this when I've been driving for awhile and then I have to shut the truck off and recrank it a few minutes later. (like going into the store for a minute or pumping gas.) If I let it sit for awhile, and then recrank it, it will shift fine. Sometimes it takes a few minutes and sometimes hours. Anyway, I have a good friend that's a mechanic for Chrysler and he seems stumped. We've put the Jeep on 2 different scanners twice and get nothing for error codes. He seems to think it's the TPS. Vehicle runs great and shifts fine except for shutting it off and recranking a few minutes later, which then it doesn't want to go out of 1st. I can tell when it's going to do it by touching the accelerator with my foot because it feels real heavy like there's a lot of resistance in the pedal. After I shut it off and let it sit for awhile, I can crank her up and she shifts like new. Any help is appreciated! Have already had the speed sensor replaced. Thinking it may be the governor sendor but not sure with no codes showing up.

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Originally Posted by tennblondie78

I have a 2001 JGC Laredo with cloth seats. Every time I get out of the vehicle it shocks the ever loving crap out of me when I touch the door to close it. Does anyone else have this static electricity problem? If so, what did you do to fix it? BTW, I also have every other problem in this thread, it seems, from the crappy brakes to a passenger side window that is being held up with Duct Tape.:mad2: Oh, did I mention, I HATE THIS JEEP!!!!! :mad:

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Did you ever find out what causes the shock? The SAME thing happens to me!!

My Jeep does the same thing as far as shocking the crap out of me!...Did you ever find out what causes that??

Hi I'm new to the thread and was hoping someone could offer help for a problem I have with my 96 Jeep Grand Laredo.

It seems whoever worked on my brakes last stripped the caliper bolts on the passenger side. Not only the bolts but the knuckle threads as well.
Is there a way to get around replacing the steering knuckle? If not is it a lot of work to replace the knuckle? Does it require getting front end alignment afterwards. Thanks/Dan

I actually have the same problem with getting shocked whenever I get out of the seat and go to shut the door. I found that if you actually touch something like the metal part(s) of the door BEFORE you get off the seat, you don't get shocked. See, we have cloth seats and it causes static electricity whenever you slide off of the seat or whatever, and then you touch the metal and voila. Other than that, I don't know.

I'm a new member... Just wanted to be added to the "me too" list. I have a 2000 GC that I bought new. Had the brake problems at less than 2000 miles. They replaced the rotors and pads. What a joke!!!! I have since replaced the following myself: rotors twice and the calipers last year. It's back again. This time I get the steering wheel shake intermittently out of the blue. Sometimes it drives like a caddy and sometimes with the shake and brake pulsating, it drives like shi*. In addition, my hatch and rear passenger door locks chirp and do not lock. I have to manually push the lever after remote locking the rest of the doors. Just had the tires rotated and front end aligned today then I replaced the rear pads. Looks like I/we have two options; replace the rotors with heavy duty vented along with the new larger calipers and ceramic pads or try the new calipers and rotors that the front end guy at NTB clued me on today. He said there was a TMS? which states that the dealership now has larger calipers and different rotors to correct our issues. Seems to me that chrysler should be paying for this!!!!!!!!! I love my jeep but will not buy another one.............................................:m ad2: