Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo Problems

I am the owner of a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. My car has 34,000 miles and my 3 year warranty ended a year ago. I, like so many on this forum have had numerous problems. In fact, a Chrysler customer service employee had not seen so many problems in a long time. I will review some of the problems. First, like so many owners, the Jeep's brakes have been inferior from the start. The brakes rotors were replaced on Chryslers dime at about 4,000 miles, then at 13,000, the front brake calipers were replaced, at 20,000 rotors were replaced. Also at 20,000 miles the passenger front window fell into door. The regulator was replaced by Chrysler as the car was under warranty at the time. The driver front window fell into the door a few months ago and I paid $550.00 to replace the regulator. I have had 3 flat tires which I can't really blame on Chrysler, but none the less, it happened when driving the Jeep so I am mentioning this also. Keep in mind, I live in California, so maybe some of the prices I am going to mention seem exhorbitant. Well everything costs alot in California. The median price of homes in Orange County where I live are $645,000 dollars. I live in a $1,000,000 dollar 2400 square foot home! Prices in California are inflated. Anyway, I have regretted purchasing this car almost from the start. My car prior to the Jeep was a Lexus and never had a problem. Plus all Lexus service was free at the dealership and they give you a loaner car for free. Anyway, I leased the Lexus and decided not to buy it at the end of the lease. I have come to regret my decision. Ok, so I decided to buy the Jeep with the idea of giving it to my daughter when she turns 16 to drive. My daughter is 16 and will get her license in Feb. 2006. I do not feel the car to be safe or dependable enough for her. The Jeep is paid for so I would like to keep it as long as I can;however it has had so many problems that I am not sure if it is prudent to keep it knowing that the chances for more problems is quite certain. Anyway, I will go on with my story. Sometimes I get off track.:) For awhile now the car seems to have transmission probs. Keep in mind the car is out of warranty and only has 34,000 miles on it. I read on a website that sometimes transmission problems can be resolved by unhooking the battery for 24 hours and it will reset and the transmission probs will disappear. I know nothing about cars. The transmission probs started about 4 months ago. The car felt like it did not shift out of 2nd gear. I replaced the battery(!) 3 months ago and after that it seemed like the transmission probs stopped for awhile but they came back again. Anyway, I took my car to the dealership to have the transmission checked and also to be serviced. I have always maintained the car at a Jeep dealership near my home. I went in and the service alone was estimated at $500.00. The service included things like flushing transmission and other various things. I know it's alot of money, but what's a person to do it. The point is I have tried to keep up on the car and not run it into the ground. The assistant service manager calls and says that I have approximately 2,000 in additonal repair work. This work included things like a transmission governor($600),replace front brakes($200),replace thermostat($120)replace rear shocks($250),reset neutral switch, repair transmission leak($175),repair oil leak,repair hood($145) as it won't stay up on it's own and some other problems. I put my trust in the dealership that my car needed an additonal 2200.00 in repair work. I also need 500.00 for new tires. So with the service, repairs and new tires I am looking at $3,000 for a car that has continual probs. What do I do? Morally, I can't really sell it to anyone because it really seems to be a lemon. My choices are to sink more money and hope that it holds up for awhile. I guess I could trade it in at a dealership and they could fix it and then sell it. I decided to repair it. Then I decide to call Chrysler and advise them of my disatisfaction with the Jeep and get an address where I can write and outline all the problems I have had with the car. Maybe I can get some help with the repairs since my car only has 34,000 miles but behave as if it has 134,000 miles on it. Well I call and guess what? The customer service person is really nice and wants to help. The outcome........Chrysler picks up $1600.00 of the bill and I pay a $300.00 deductible for the repairs and I pay the service of the car which makes my bill 800.00. I made one phone call and get help which I think is pretty fair. I feel satisfied with my treatment from Chrysler, although still have reservations about the car.

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Originally Posted by M1989Manu@Yahoo.com

I also have a 2001 Grand Cherokee Laredo, this is my 3rd Jeep and so far this one has most problems.
Some are same as you , have to crank three or 4 times before it will start, sometimes only the starter makes a sound, then I just take key count to ten and cross my fingers that it will start with next try.
A couple of Days ago the front passenger window would not close , so what could that be , well it turns out that the Wire connected to the regulator had been eaten up. No big Deal I thought ,well no it turned out to be a real big deal . the wire cant be purchased by itself and look and see not even connected to only the Regulator is it awaileble. No the whole thing has to be replaced , that means with Motor .Trying to find this Replacement Part is a chor . Part Companys that do have this Part are out of stock because they are flying of the shelf as one Seller said. Most Part Dealer do not stock this Part because it is not availibel to them. Seams to be a real big Problem!!! All the Calls I made and Links I opend , wow , Prices vary from $99.- to $224.40 plus Tax and this is for the same Part!!!
Found out that for Models before 2001 , it was possible to buy the Part seperatly.
There seams to be a real problem with this but so far no Recall :mad:




2001-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Passenger side power w/motor front window regulator #REG4500

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We have run into this problem with our 2000 Jeep(does not start up sometimes, seems a bit random). We took it to the dealership a couple times and they said they could not reproduce the problem, which is quite frustrating and am now concerned about the safety of my family in this vehicle. If others have run into this problem shouldn't the dealership know what "could" be the problem. Any suggestions on what to do here? We are now thinking of selling/trading this jeep in. Thanks in advance for any advice.

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Originally Posted by 2000Jeep

We have run into this problem with our 2000 Jeep(does not start up sometimes, seems a bit random). We took it to the dealership a couple times and they said they could not reproduce the problem, which is quite frustrating and am now concerned about the safety of my family in this vehicle. If others have run into this problem shouldn't the dealership know what "could" be the problem. Any suggestions on what to do here? We are now thinking of selling/trading this jeep in. Thanks in advance for any advice.

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Please, does anyone have advice with this. Yesterday we had the same problem, the car randonly does not start. After trying to crank the engine(i hear nothing), then ten minutes or so later it starts! It is really frustrating(we have two small boys that do not deserve to be stranded out in the cold). Does anyone have any idea I could tell my dealership?

Thank You.

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Originally Posted by littlebiggy3

:confused:
I have a 1994 Jeep GC Laredo V8 5.4L and have experienced loud clunking noises coming from both the front and back end while turning. It seems to be worse once the car has been driven at highway speed for 20 min or more. I'm not sure what this noise could possibly be, but I not only hear the noise, but feel the car sort of pull or chug while turning. I have had two mechanics tell me that this is normal for 4x4 vehicles; I personally have never driven one before so do not know. I do realize that my Jeep is all time 4x4, but this noise and motion that the car makes when turning does not feel like something that could be normal. I was just wondering if it is, and if it is not a common occurence, then what it could be.

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I cannot say for sure what is causing your sounds, but I had a 1977 Jeep CJ-7 that was full time 4WD Quadra-Trac and it had the same sounds/clunks and at that time it was normal as the 4WD was working all the time and it does cause this type of noise...also had a CJ-5, but it only had those type of noises when you were on dry pavement or actually any surface that had good traction and you were in 4WD--but it was way worse in that situation than the noises from a full time 4WD. I now have a 1994 Grand Cherokee Laredo that does the same thing--albeit not as loud. I have not had this Jeep as long and am still checking it out as to capabilities and quirks--they all have them, but some are worse. Have driven a 4WD Chevy PU, Corn Binder (Travelall), and some military type vehicles that all have this problem...some are worse than others, but all have it - at least the ones I drove anyway. Also some will sort of "crab" as you turn along with making the sound you describe. Hope that this helps...

I bought my Jeep last April, and was really excited because it was my first new car. And while I love my car, from day one I have had lots of little problems, and now a bigger problem that I can't seem to get fixed. A few months ago, I started having problems starting my car, you could hear the engine turn over, but it just wouldn't catch (this sounds like what other people have been going through). Then, on occasion, when I tried to start it, the engine wouldn't even make a noise, the car just wouldn't start. If I let it sit for a minute or two, it would eventually start up. I started thinking it might be the battery, but the car isn't very old, and the battery shouldn't be going out so quickly, and I only have 17,000 miles on it. But then last week, the check engine light went on, and this is when I started having problems with the gas. It just seemed like the car didn't want to go anywhere, I would hit the accelerator, but it would barely move. I am also having some problems with the brakes. If I am driving at slower speeds (usually below 30 mph), they don't "catch" until the pedal is practically to the floor. But at higher speeds, it seems fine. I am taking it in (again) to the dealership next week, but if anyone has any ideas on fixing these problems, I would be really thankful for the advice!

I had the same problem on my 2001 JGC and also on my wife's 2000 JGC. We love the style and the engine but hate the rest of it. I've had to replace both rear axle seals on mine along with brake rotors too many times to count.

What year is your Jeep? I have a 2004 with 18k miles which is scheduled to go in for brakes problems this coming monday.

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Originally Posted by ftmyersguy

Hello fellow GC owners. The problem we have with our brakes are not warped rotors but unevenly worn rotors. Caused by , get this, defective and/or poorly designed calipers! Which is why replacing your rotors only helps for a short while, then you do it again...and again. The comment that dealers say that they are undersized is crap. Though going larger wouldn't be such a bad idea. The truth is found in the Chrysler bulletin for GC's years 1999-2001. If you do a search on TSB 05-003-02 Revision A you'll find that every Jeep dealer in the world has access to this problem. There is no reason they can't figure this out. I just had my brakes done YESTERDAY! I had to tell them of the bulletin. And I had to make them change out the calipers. They kept telling me they were fine. Maybe they were, but the safety of my son is more important than the $254 for the caliper kit recommended by Jeep. That's for both calipers, pads and various crap they need. Of course I had to shell out $69/rotor as well.
I find it disturbing that a guy with little auto mechanical experience has to explain these things to Jeep mechanics. I find it MORE disturbing that a brake problem only gets a bulletin and not a warranty recall. Aren't brakes vital to the safety of their customers?
Please do yourself a favor and Goggle that bulletin number. Print it and carefully insert it into the next Jeep Service Advisor that comes back to you with, " It's normal for rotors to warp every 15,000 miles" If thats the case why have I never replaced rotors in any other car/truck I've owned in the last 20 years?

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Originally Posted by ssquick454

i have an 01 GC and it now has 80,000 miles. the passenger window regulator broke, so i took it out. i found a place on the internet called Parts Direct and they sell the part for $109.00 delivered. i also took out the other three regulators reinforced the plastic cable retainer so they will not break in the future. also what happens, is the slide that the window rides up and down on loses it's lubrication, so i added lube. i replaced the rotors once and the transmission rebuilt under warranty. i am a master auto tech and this suv has been okay considering what i have put it thru................ talk 2 me

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So, I now have learned what a window regulator is. And I am also learning how expensive it can be to have them replaced. I understand that some of you bought your regulator online. So once you got it, did you install it? Does the dealership have to do this? Can a regular body shop do this job?

I am wondering what recourse we all have against Chrysler. If it is a known issue, then they should take care of us. :mad:

Please, anyone, respond if you have knowledge about anything in my post.

I recently purchased a 1996 4WD Laredo :) . A couple days later my wife was driving it, and the front end started to shake uncontrollably :( . It shakes so bad the steering wheel also shakes. As my wife put it..."it almost feels like the tire is wobbling and going to fall off." It didn't do it again for about 1 week. Then it happened to me. It happened while I was applying the brake (same with my wife). The shaking does not stop after I release the brake. It normally lasts for about 10-15 seconds, then stops. It seems to be happening only under 40 mph. It doesn't happen all the time either. I'm clueless as to what it is, and I'm not quite ready to take it back to the dealership. I have called them and informed them about the problem, but they didn't know what the problem was either. :confused:
I've done several visuals of the tires, axle, and such, but can't find anything out of place. Can Anyone Help Me?!

Thanks,
1996LaredoGuy

[QUOTE=1996LaredoGuy]I recently purchased a 1996 4WD Laredo :) . A couple days later my wife was driving it, and the front end started to shake uncontrollably :( . It shakes so bad the steering wheel also shakes. As my wife put it..."it almost feels like the tire is wobbling and going to fall off." It didn't do it again for about 1 week. Then it happened to me. It happened while I was applying the brake (same with my wife). The shaking does not stop after I release the brake. It normally lasts for about 10-15 seconds, then stops. It seems to be happening only under 40 mph. It doesn't happen all the time either. I'm clueless as to what it is, and I'm not quite ready to take it back to the dealership. I have called them and informed them about the problem, but they didn't know what the problem was either. :confused:
I've done several visuals of the tires, axle, and such, but can't find anything out of place. Can Anyone Help Me?!

Thanks,
1996LaredoGuy[/QUO


That is a common problem that they even have a name for it (Death wobble). It is in your suspension or brakes. Mine was a bad brake caliper 18.00 at advanced auto. I would also check your track bar. This can be ordered at quadratec.com for about 60.00. These are the most common problems. If they are not the problem make sure you suspension is not lose.

I have a 1994 Grand Cherokee Laredo V8/5.2 that I bought in July 2005. It is a re-VIN'd vehicle, so I haven't been able to pull up a history on it. It is a very clean, well optioned low mileage (now at @ 67,200) Jeep, and I love it. It DOES have its problems, though.

When I got it, there was a glitch in the shift between 2nd and 3rd gear. It doesn't like that shift too well, the rpms increase but it doesn't shift and if you let off the gas and let it shift you can put your foot back on the gas and all is well. This hasn't bothered me since I've had some crazy cars in my time. What DOES bother me is that every here and there it doesn't shift - when I put my foot back on the gas it seems like the tranny has almost disengaged - lots of revving and no shifting. I can manually shift it into 2nd to keep going but at that point it really needs to be in 3rd. I've tried moving the shift lever through the gears when I get to a light, had the engine off for a few minutes while I stop for gas - once it starts it's tough to snap it back to "normal". Fortunately, the last two major occurances I have been heading home, and the Jeep is fine in the morning. A friend thinks it might be a sticking servo, but I haven't gotten any other advice.

Anybody have any ideas? Is it the tranny itself or a repairable component? I read a previous post about replacing the battery but I don't know if that would apply here.

I'll also mention I've had some coolant leaks. A few weeks ago it was hose clamp tightening and this week was the timing cover gasket. When I had the clamps tightened it was suggested that the improper shifting was building pressure and causing the leak, but I'm not sure I buy it. During the big repair this week, no mention was made of pressure buildup.

I'd hate to have to bail out of this Jeep 'cause it is SO nice, but I can't afford a tranny and can't deal with too many problems over and over. Any ideas? Thanks...

I also have a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (1996) and I just noticed the same thing. I came to a slow stop and it started shaking voilently for a few seconds. I cant seem to figure out the problem myself. I also noticed that it seems to be holding back and the gears seem to be slipping sometimes. I plan on taking it it to get the transmission flushed, we'll see if that helps. Other than that, I'm stuck on what could be causing it.

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Originally Posted by ajt*

I am having a problem with my 2000 Laredo. It has problems starting and i have to crank the engine two or three times before it will start. I also have a problem with the power locks and windows. Any suggestions?

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I have a 2001Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with just over 70,000 miles and it recently started this problem as well. It runs fine whent it's running, but it rarely starts effeciently. I have to crank it once-- pause about 5-7 seconds then give it another try. sometimes it catches easy, other times not so easy, but it always catches. I told the dealer about this and he said it sounded like a fuel pump going bad. about 700 to replace. yikes. any suggestions out there from the all wise and knowing car junkies. I am a novice in that department and a college student at that. 700 bucks is out of my range just for a car repair. I bought the jeep around 8 months ago and declined the dealer warrenty because it just seemed so sketchy-- "uh, it covers this, but not this, this or this, oh and not that either...". No other problems aside from this and I do my fair share of driving. Anyone with any input would be appreciated.
-=j=-

I've started having the same issues with my 1994 Grand Cherokee. Fortunately, I've had very very few problems with mine, now at 125K. The hesitation to shift between 2nd and 3rd only happens for me from a cold start. This winter, in Minneapolis, I've noticed it more pronounced the colder it is. After about a mile of driving it seems to be fine (a mile of several starts and stops). Curiously, when temps are around 30-35 it clears up quicker, and above 40 I don't even see it.

I'm guessing this is too is a precursor to bigger and badder tranny problems---what have other people found? This vehicle, already pushing 13 years of age--probably is ready for a change of ownership. But it is in spotless condition and I hate to part ways with it if I can get a cheap repair. Even a $3,000 repair, however, is still beats a $35,000 new vehicle provided I don't get nickle and dimed with the inconvenience of small, frequent repairs.

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Originally Posted by vixen94

I have a 1994 Grand Cherokee Laredo V8/5.2 that I bought in July 2005. It is a re-VIN'd vehicle, so I haven't been able to pull up a history on it. It is a very clean, well optioned low mileage (now at @ 67,200) Jeep, and I love it. It DOES have its problems, though.

When I got it, there was a glitch in the shift between 2nd and 3rd gear. It doesn't like that shift too well, the rpms increase but it doesn't shift and if you let off the gas and let it shift you can put your foot back on the gas and all is well. This hasn't bothered me since I've had some crazy cars in my time. What DOES bother me is that every here and there it doesn't shift - when I put my foot back on the gas it seems like the tranny has almost disengaged - lots of revving and no shifting. I can manually shift it into 2nd to keep going but at that point it really needs to be in 3rd. I've tried moving the shift lever through the gears when I get to a light, had the engine off for a few minutes while I stop for gas - once it starts it's tough to snap it back to "normal". Fortunately, the last two major occurances I have been heading home, and the Jeep is fine in the morning. A friend thinks it might be a sticking servo, but I haven't gotten any other advice.

Anybody have any ideas? Is it the tranny itself or a repairable component? I read a previous post about replacing the battery but I don't know if that would apply here.

I'll also mention I've had some coolant leaks. A few weeks ago it was hose clamp tightening and this week was the timing cover gasket. When I had the clamps tightened it was suggested that the improper shifting was building pressure and causing the leak, but I'm not sure I buy it. During the big repair this week, no mention was made of pressure buildup.

I'd hate to have to bail out of this Jeep 'cause it is SO nice, but I can't afford a tranny and can't deal with too many problems over and over. Any ideas? Thanks...

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I had this issue on my 1994 at about 50K miles. I ended up replacing the viscous coupler. What is that? About $1300 bucks with labor. The dealer said Jeeps were notorious for this at low miles. I haven't had any problems with it since. I had a flat, and being a full time 4x4, with a smaller tire on one of the 3, it was virtually inoperable. I could not go over 5 miles per hour. Fortunately, my tire dealer was less than a mile away. I had to drive on the shoulder and let the spare spin out in the gravel. The minute I tried hard pavement, the vehicle hopped and pounded--just like the turn in the parking lot. I did make it to the tire shop---and ended up replacing the coupler within the month. Still not sure whether driving on the mini spare forced the coupler out, or if it was out to begin with and that's why I couldn't drive on it.

The dealer told me there was a recall on Jeeps 1995 to 1999 that were full time 4x4's to replace the minispare---as everyone knows, full time 4x4 does not work well when you have one tire of smaller size. For some reason, the recall didn't apply to my 1994 model and I was left to fight my debate with Jeep. I tried to claim it as a saftey issue, since I was immobile in my situation. Jeep said tough luck. And after telling them "well, I just bought my last Jeep" they dismissively said, "well sir, you have that right as a consumer." nevertheless, I ended up buying a 2000 to go along with my 1994 a few months later and....

I have a 99 JGC and for the last year whenever i brake and only when i brake do i get this problem. the frontend vibrates and the steering wheel also vibrates but no pulsating in the brake pedal. I have changed the front rotors and pads twice and the rear rotors and pads once, and everytime it does absolutely nothing. I had a tierod that was a little loose and also changed that, it did nothing. But when i tell people the problem they swear to me its the rotors. Please help? the rest of the frontend feels very tight. any clues would help

I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. it has had many problems in the past for example the transmission blew 3 times, the air conditioning stopped working, it makes not so good noises when its in 4X4, the radio broke and is now replaced, and the door panels have become unstuck to the side and looks horrible. But I have just experienced a new problem where i start it and then it doesn't idle. it just shuts off. But if i hold the gas at about 1000 rpm for a while it will finally start. I have no idea what the problem is and wanted to know if any one els has this same thing or knows what to do so if you have any clues as to what the problem is please respond!

We have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a whopping 19,000 + miles on it. At 13,000 miles and still under warranty the brakes were replaced because of the pulsing problem. Rotors. Now, 6,000 miles later, it is starting again. Called the dealer who admitted the problem and said that Chrysler knows about it. Obviously. This fix is on us - money wise. And I was told that it was no problem as far as safety. Can that be? Any recourse?

I have a 99 JGC and for the last year whenever i brake and only when i brake do i get this problem. the frontend vibrates and the steering wheel also vibrates but no pulsating in the brake pedal. I have changed the front rotors and pads twice and the rear rotors and pads once, and everytime it does absolutely nothing. I had a tierod that was a little loose and also changed that, it did nothing. But when i tell people the problem they swear to me its the rotors. Please help? the rest of the frontend feels very tight. i have jacked up the front end with a mechanic and tried moving both tires and neither one move at all. They are very tight at first there was a little play in one but it was the tierod so i replaced that and now it is tight. I also pulled the fuse for the ABS to make sure it was not interferring with it, and it didn't help.any clues would help

Anyone have any thoughts/problems/advice about a soft, whirring noise coming from underneath the passenger side front dashboard when the A/C Compressor engages? I have a 2003 Grand Cherokee Ltd (V8, Quadra-Drive) with Dual Zone Auto Climate Control and have had my dealer replace under warranty the A/C Compressor, Dryer, Expansion Valve and Condenser, and the problem still occurs. Beauty part of it all, DaimlerChrysler corporate (what they call the Chrysler StarCenter) even knows about the problem, won't recall it, won't issue a TSB, and claims "their engineers don't know how to fix the problem". Sure is a shame because, knock on wood, it's been a great car so far with few mechanical problems.

I have had nothing but trouble with the brakes on my 1999 jeep grand cherokee loredo also. It is a shame because I love everything else about my jeep. I have had to have the rotors replaced twice and shaved once and I don't even have 40 thousand miles on it yet. I only drive it on the road. When I am doing about 50mph and come to a stop light and go on the brakes the steering wheel shakes and vibrates all over the place. This last time the whole jeep vibrates. It is pretty scary, it makes you wonder if your brakes are going to give out. I take it in for repair and I am always told the rotors are warped. I don't know anyone else with disc brakes on other vehicles going through this. Why do they keep warping out? Is it because the rotors are made cheaply or is it a design problem, or are the garages doing temporary repairs instead of fixing it right so that I have to keep coming back? I want to keep my jeep until it costs more to repair it than it is worth (that is what I usualy do with any vehicle I buy) but if this keeps happening with the rotors I may wind up trading it in for something else.

I have a 2004 Grand Cherokee, so far the drivers window fell down,,, bad regulator... my daughter also owns one,a 2004 Grand Cherokee, both of her front window regulators have broken, is Chrysler gonna admit they have a problem with them or are we just gonna have to suck it up and fix the ourselves..

your rotors keep warping becuase the teves calipers on 99-02 are the problem. they need to be changed to a different caliper. jeep changed all calipers on may of 2002 to akebono. Jeep even issued a TSB 05-003-02b i think you can find this at www.wjjeeps.com/brakes.htm

Hello everyone,

I am new to this forum but I feel your pain. I have a 2002 Grand Jeep Cherokee Laredo Special Edition. I have had to completely replace engine, I have warped rotors, Only my AC works not my heater, only one seat warmer works, but my biggest problem is the power windows. I had one just drop about 4 months ago when the truck wasn't on. I paid over $300.00 to get it fixed. Now three weeks ago I was getting into my truck and observed that my right rear window was open slightly. I went to touch the window and it too fell inside the door. I have not had a chance to get it fixed yet. Then four days ago, I was stopped at a light, heard a loud clunk, looked around to see what it was saw nothing then watched my driver's side window fall in front of me!!!!!! Okay now that's three windows on the same vehicle!!! Has anyone else had this many windows do this on the same vehicle?? I called the corporate headquarters for Jeep and told them what happened. They told me that there was NO recall on this item and thanks for telling them! I said wait a minute, I want someone to help me here. As with other folks I was told to take it to the dealer have them find out what is wrong that this is happening so often, then they would see about splitting the difference with me AFTER I pay the FULL amount!! They will compensate me within 180 days! Thanks a lot. This is my fourth Jeep and the only one that I ever bought new. Can anyone tell me what the cause would be for this to happen so much or is it a major design flaw and a problem that corportate does not admit to? Anyone know how to troubleshoot the window system and if one of us can do what the dealer can do at a substanial rate reduction??? I do not have a short in the electrical system. That is what I suspected. Also what the heck is going on with the AC/Heater and seat warmers?

Thanks Everyone. Any help or replies are very welcome.

Dana D.
Tampa, FL

Hello Everyone, I am new to this forum. I live in Central New Jersey, and after reading many of the posted comments regarding this vehicle, all I can say is I wish I knew then what I know now. I purchased a 2002 JGC new, with a factory incentive 36k Bumper/Bumper -100k Drivetrain warranty. (at the time, the inclusion of this warranty was a major determining factor for purchase.) While I havn't experienced some of the seemingly more common ailments, it has had it's problems. A majority of my driving is highway, no offroad usage. Currently have 94k on said Vehicle.
Here's the list:

Brakes- 30k, it warped a set of front rotors. Dealer said it would cost around 1500.00 to fix the front (!) brakes, which included New rotors, new pads, new bearings, new calipers and get this- NEW SPINDLES- what a deal- Said thanks but no thanks. Took Vehicle to a local service station, had the rotors trued for a cost of 75.00 and was able to log an additional 18k on the same brakes (Keep in mind- highway driving). At which point I replaced the front brakes and installed aftermarket rotors. Those rotors are still going strong, even after another brake job and truing at 85k. Bottom line- Chrysler, along with other car manufacturers are keeping costs down by using cheaper materials.

Things that go "Bump": At around 32k, I noticed what seemed to be a delay in shifting from 2nd to first gear on a downshift. Most often it would occur stopping for a traffic light or stop sign. I would sometimes happen on the slowdown, other times it would happen at point of acceleration. The sensation is one of being gently bumped from behind, or a solid clunk. Took it to the dealer I bought the vehicle from and they tried to fix the problem by replacing a governor sensor- literally one trip around the block and back to the shop it went. The service manager sent a mechaninc with me to verify the occurence, which he did. Was told to bring it back the following Monday, which I did. At that point, the service manager told me that they had already fixed it once and wern't going to waste any more of their time on it- I was livid, these guys are a small Dealership two blocks from my Business. A phone call to Chrysler resulted in a recommendation to one of their 5 star service centers, I was told since the local shop wasn't rated, not to go there anymore. ( I have a feeling this is more about Corporate pressuring the small dealers than about getting better service, but I played along). Went to their recommended center (same one that offered the bargain on the brakes) and they identified a problem and tried to fix it. This lasted for about 25 miles before it had to go back for the same issue. Again, they tried to fix it by changing a different part. Same result- less than a hundred miles later ti was back though not as pronounced. Then at around 36k miles, I started hearing noises, grinding and moaning sounds coming from the central area of the vehicle. Uh oh -I thought maybe the torque converter had gone bad and was also the culprit for the rough shifting. Into the shop it goes. Test drive the Mechanic "ouldn't hear" what I was hearing. When he finally figured out I wasn't going away he acknowledged he heard "some sounds" and would have them checked out. This time around they claimed to have replaced a bearing in the transfer case. At first he accused me of installing the wrong fluid. When I informed them that the fluid in the case was whatever Chrysler had put in atthe factory, he then said someone must have tampered with it. I then asked for a technical printout showing the chemical analysis breakdown. He said he couldn't provide that and that the repair would be warrantied. Bump in shifting still there, but that sound was gone. Decided to live with the transmission shifting problem for a while.

Leaks: At about 65 k, both rear axle seals had let go. Gear Oil was everwhere, ruined the rear disc brakes and parking brake assemblies. Chrysler warrantied the Seals, but refused to warranty the damage caused to the brakes. net net- 450 worth of Service center repairs out of pocket on a warranty related issue. Noted problem with transmission, said they couldn't find anything.

93k- Start losing antifreeze, but have no visible leaks and the oil doesn't seem to have the normal telltale signs of coolant (Foamy milkshake appearance), except that there seemed to be a little condensation on the oil filler cap. 1300 miles later, my oil pressure starts acting up. Went from 50 psi cold/ 40 cruising/ idle to 40-50 cold, 35 crusing and around 10 at idle, in gear or out. On hot start ups, sometimes the check guage light would stay on- ru roh, something is amiss. Took to my friends shop and put a mechanical guage on it to verify the numbers. Nope, Something wrong with the motor. He calls the local dealer, and the shop advised him that the 6 cyl engine has a tendency to develop a cracked head, right below the valve cover. Shop said this caused coolant to leech into the oil and wipe out the camshaft bearings and or main bearings, resulting in lower than normal oil pressure, or if not caught in time- motor failure. Said it should be covered under drivetrain warranty. SOO- I take it to the 5 star center again. Service manager didn't want to know from Adam about what some other dealer said, insisted that his guys would figure it out and let me know how they would handle it. I also mentioned the transmission problem again. Result- Yes, it has a cracked head. Yes, Chrysler will authorize the replacement of the head assembly. Said he had 2 techs test drive the vehicle and they couldn't find anything abnormal with the shifting. When I queried about possible bearing failure due to the low oil pressure, at first he said that 10lbs was normal for that engine. When I insisted that it wasn't, he then stated that it was considered "acceptable". When I told him it is an early sign of engine failure resulting from bearing clearances opening up, he said there is no way to know that, and there is no way to know that the coolant leak caused the problem. I then told him that it is a known fact that the heads have a tendency to crack and leak fluid into the oil, causing bearing failure (as per comments from another Jeep center) all he said was Chrysler will not warranty the replacement of the motor. He again insisted 3-5 lbs of pressure at Idle is sufficient, 10 in gear with foot on brake being normal for this motor. Says can't fix what they don't find with regard to the transmission. (it's now jolting instead of bumping, but I guess this is also considered"Normal")This was yesterday and today. I have written another letter to Chrysler, but I honestly do not expect anything to come of it other than what has already been told to me by the dealer. My dealings with Chrysler corporate service have left me to think they care more about servicing their shareholders and bottom line more than their customers. I apologize for the longwinded post, but I tried to be thorough so that anyone else having problems might also benefit to some degree. Bottom line, I wouldn't purchase another of these vehicles, and I certainly do not recommend the purchase of a used one. I will be trading mine in on a new something or other ASAP. Are there any class action suits being filed wrt these vehicles, if so- who to contact and the reasons for suit would be appreciated. Like I said, I feel fortunate to have logged a fair amount of mileage with relatively few unresolved incidents, but my luck can't old out forever. if anyone is interested in the specific dealership info, please pm for that.

Find a reputable local service shop, NOT a Chrylser center. Ask them how much a front brake job will run you, including replacing the rotors if they deem that they can't be trued. (See post below re 2002 JGC Headaches)- While it will be out of pocket expense, and may grate on your sense of principal, but I think you will be quite surprised at how inexpensive this repair can be relative to having it serviced at you CJD dealer. I was charged 60.00 per rotor for BRAND NEW aftermarket units when the time came to replace them, and have not had a problem since. The entire front brake job cost 250.00, including the rotors as compared to the 1500.00 in repairs Chrsler said was necessary (Initially it only cost me 75.00 to have them cut, but the factory rotors are so thin that one cut out is all you can get out of them, hence the reason for replacement later on.) You may even be able to pay a little less depending on where you live, cost of doing business around here is high so that's also a factor.

I just bought a 99 JGC Limited Edition about two months ago. When I bought it, it had about 83K miles on it. I hadn't had any problems with it as of right now. About two weeks ago I had it in a Jeep Dealership to get an oil change, and they told me there were some minor problems. Lets see...The CV Joint boot was torn and all the grease had dripped out, the gasket in the front and rear differential were bad and leaking, the gasket in the transmission oil pan was leaking, the serpentein belt had cracks in it, and one of the hood lifts was not working. I had everything fixed or replaced with the exception of the hood lift. It would have cost around $800, but when I bought the Jeep I had purchased a warranty with it. The whole thing only cost me around $400. It was $250 deductable, $125 for the serpentein belt, and $20 for the oil change.

Yesturday (4/2/06) I was driving around and out of now where the Check Engine light came on and transmission began acting strange. It was shifting really hard between 1st and 2nd, and today when I was driving down the highway it would not shift into overdrive. It is also very rought shifting into drive whether I am in park of reverse. I am unsure what is wrong? Anyone have any advice?

I am bringing it to the dealer tomorrow, I guess I will just wait and see. I will keep you all updated. But any advice in the mean time would be great. Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cynthia4781

I am currently in the middle of replacing my driver's side window regulator. I replaced my passanger side window regulator less then 7 months ago. I love my Jeep. I think it's great, but I hope that the back windows are fine because everytime a regulator brakes it costs me $395.00 at Chrystler. I was wondering if this happens to other people?.....?.....?....?
Overall I think that the JEEP is an EXCELLENT SUV.

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Sorry for not responding earlier but I never knew about this site until yesterday. Over the last fourteen months I have had to replace three window regulators. One time I can understand. Two times, bad luck. The third time to me means a manufacturing defect. Needless to say, each window costs about $440 to fix. I am surprised they haven't issued a recall as you are not the only one with the problems. The good news is that my complaining seemed to work. The last two windows only cost me $150 as Chrysler picked up the cost of the part. I still had to eat the labor. I am not quite done yet as I am going to write Chrysler to try and recover the entire cost of the first window and the labor for the other wo.

Hello,
I have a 2001 JGC with the exact same problem as Vixen94. Has anyone out there had this problem fixed? If so, what part was bad? Thanks for your help.
Steve

The brakes started to pulsate on my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee at about 19,000 miles. I took it to the dealer and told them that I am aware that all jeeps have this problem and that I am also aware of the "fix". This "fix" consists of the dealer putting on a different set of Brake Calipers because they are junk and changing the Rotor. I am now in the Mid 30,000 range and have not had the problem again.

Yesterday I had the pleasure of having the driver door window fall inside the door and the lovely crunching sound of the broken window regulator when I tried to put it back up. I had to take the door apart to put it back up by hand. I ordered a new window regulator from http://www.powerupauto.com/ yesterday for $45.00 minus shipping and handling. When I install it I will post the results if anyone is interested. As a precaution I am going to coat the plastic connector that holds the cables in place on the window regulator on the remaining doors with a good coat of epoxy and re-lubricate the assembly.

Mkovalsk,

Please post what you find out about your transmission problem. My 2000 GC started doing the same thing this past weekend. The check engine light came on, and the transmission started acting funny. One day it would not go into to OD and a few other times it would not change into 3rd. It seems to get "stuck" several times when switching gears.

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hi...to all i been looking at the comments and suggestions for solving the wobbly brakes with the GCJ 2001.I just came back from a short road trip and noticed on application of brakes from light to medium they would wobble and the i would smell something like burnt rubber i do remember haveing new rotors and calipers installed at the dealers not to long ago;the car mostly driven by the wife and thats mostly urban driveing so she did not notice anything...however onthe highway i noticed it...A CLASS ACTION is necesarry,i would be all for it...but in the meantime i will look into the recommendations i got from the fourm about aftermarket parts...If i were to trade this suv in any recommendations on a make and model suv's of better quality but same price range....

hello army guy.
i'm going through the same problem with the drivers window on my 01 laredo. would apreachate any do's and don'ts. thanks for posting the web on where you bought the regulator. it's the best price i can find. did you get it sent quick and is it all you need to do the job? so far all i have done is scraped the crap out of the backs of my hands trying to get the old one out. please reply and good luck.

This is a response to my previous write-up

I ordered my new regulator from power up auto. http://www.powerupauto.com/ for 40+ dollars. I checked the site today and the price has already gone up to 90$. The price is still not too bad and I got it within a few days.I recommend that you send a email to them to confirm you are ordering the right one for your year vehicle.

INSTRUCTIONS:
It is easy to remove once you figure it out or have instructions...Remember, don’t try to use your window while it’s broke or you will burn up the electric motor. I taped the window in the up position until I got my new regulator.

1. Remove the door panel (3 screws: one in armrest and one near rearview mirror and last one is a hex head located in the door handle well)

2. Pop door panel off easily using a wide flat tip screw driver or something that’s plastic, thin and wide to prevent scratching… start popping it off at the bottom of the door in a corner….there are a bunch of plastic clips holding it on. Don't worry if a couple of them break you can order a few new ones for a couple bucks... No problem.

3. Once you get the panel popped out some, you need to disconnect the power window cable, power mirror cable, and door and lock controls so you can completely remove the panel. (cables have a little clip on the back of them, squeeze it to unlock and remove) (Door and lock metal rods have a plastic retainer, gently turn them and then easily pull out of their respective holes)

4. Remove the speaker (4 screws and unplug connector)

5. Remove the plastic cover (I had a black plastic cover under the door panel and it was attached with some black rubber like glue. The glue is none drying so if you remove it carefully, a little at a time it will stay on the plastic and you can re use it.

6. Where the window comes through the top of the door or ...the part that your arm rests on if you hang your arm out the open window....there are 2 rubber seals that the window comes up between when it’s raised. Remove the inner one (towards the inside of the car) you can pry it up and it will pop out. Be sure to save the 2 sponge looking things that are under each end if your model has them.

7. Take out the 2 clips that hold the window to the regulator. You will have to reach inside the door and pull them out, one on the left and right...no problem.

8. Window removal: Once you have removed the clips holding the window to the regulator you have to gently work the two window “nipples” out of the regulator holes. Once you have it up a little past the regulator window holding piece…turn the window so that the rear of it is up and comes out first….then work it upwards to remove it from the door. It should come out easily, if not take a break because you don’t want to buy glass too.

9. Unplug the power window cable from the window motor (located in the center of the door)

10. Remove screws that hold the regulator and the window motor to the inside of the door (I think there were 4 regulator screws and 3 holding the motor, they are different sizes) they are the only screws left.

11. Push the window motor cable inside the door, then tilt the entire unit from it’s up and down position to a horizontal left-right position. I then patiently fed it through the hole at the bottom right side of the door…under the hole where the speaker used to be.

12. Once out remove 2 screws? (I can’t remember but you will see) to remove the window motor from the regulator. Clean off the surface of the window motor and attach it to the new regulator. If you buy the regulator from http://www.powerupauto.com/Jeep1.html like I did, it comes with basic instruction on how to connect the motor to the regulator.

Install in reverse.

I have a 2000 JGC that I bought new. It now has about 74k miles on it. v6. I had the shocks done all the way around at 30k. The driver elec door lock at some point and that's about it. The rear driver door elec lock needs to be done right now. I brought it in at about 60k to look at the brakes because I was getting worried I have never had them done. They said they are worn about half way and to check them again about now. No vibrations, ever so slight engine ping for a long time. The hood hydraulic does not work. Then today while driving the radio starts freaking out and the odometer display is flashing like there is an electrical problem happening. Now when I start the car the odometer starts flashing and the ABS and Brake lights stay on after the freaky light show. Anyone have similar problems. I must be the exception to the rule with the brakes, but sorry to say it is true.

I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L engine 4 wheel drive. I've had to replace a few things. I had to get the engine replaced! And that's one expensive engine to be going out after 3 years. We kept the oil changed every 3-5K miles. And the heater doesn't work. They say $800 to fix the heater because they have to take so much apart to get to it. I've already had the rotors and all replaced and a rear axle leak fixed as well. The coolant system had a leak. I've replaced one of the heated seats. Yep. I spent a crapload replacing things just before the engine went out!!!!! And I've heard from other people and mechanics that they've had to replace a few of these engines. But there is no recall as of yet. Maybe not enough bad ones or something. I would advise a very good and lengthy warranty if you are going to purchase one of these!

omg! I wish there was something we could do about this. We take quite a hit after paying so much for a vehicle and then having to replace over half of it, not to mention the main and most expensive parts. I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4 wheel drive with 4.7L engine. I've had the following issues.

1 - replaced all rotors and brakes
2 - fixed rear axle leaks
3 - replaced driver side heated seat
4 - replaced driver side speaker and now the passenger side is buzzing
5 - replaced side paneling that was coming lose
6 - the heater doesn't work and they say that will cost $800 b/c it's hard to get to
7 - i replaced the engine which costs $5K for a used one with 40K miles/1yr warranty
(engine died after 3 years at 70K miles - just quit on me in the middle of the highway!)
8 - coolant system leak had to be fixed
9 - the pcm has been replaced
10 - the 10 disk cd player doesn't work
11 - now with the engine replaced, it is occassionally not starting, then it will start if i wait and try again -- it's in the shop now. i just got a call that it is the start which is not part of the engine and will cost $350! What is the point in owning this thing! I have better luck with old used cars. I'm trying to be patient. I just don't know whether to get rid of it or what.

IT NEVER ENDS WITH THIS THING! I love the vehicle. It's nice, comfy, looks good, but it's killing me!

I have the same problems managermike has with my 2000 JGC Limited. The battery completely drains every 2 weeks at this point. My brakes are very choppy, and I have the light show. I'm going to have to take it in for a check, but am not looking forward to the bill. Any advice??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by managermike

The hood hydraulic does not work. Then today while driving the radio starts freaking out and the odometer display is flashing like there is an electrical problem happening. Now when I start the car the odometer starts flashing and the ABS and Brake lights stay on after the freaky light show. Anyone have similar problems. I must be the exception to the rule with the brakes, but sorry to say it is true.

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We have a 2 month old 2006 V6 Laredo, 4WD. We have a recurring problem when we are driving at speed or a stop sign/light and the power goes off. No electrical on the instrument panel. Go to D or P and can restart. The first time back to the dealer found nothing and second time said they re flashed a board or replaced the gateway module. This third time I was told the key is very senstive and it might just move over in the acc position and of course then no electircal power. This is rather dangerous and I wonder if others have had this problem.

Thanks,
Ralph

Hello, I have the exact same problem as the post above. My car completely powers off/shuts off during stops, crawls, etc etc. Anything dealing with pressing the brake, the car trembles and makes noises and then stops. I have taken it to the dealership and they said they found nothing wrong with the car. I do not want to continue driving a car that shuts off with unknown causes. This has become more frequent than before, leading me to believe the problem is deteriorating, the dealership said to wait 4,000 miles and see if the "unrecognizeable" problem still persists. I am not willing to wait 4,000 miles for a brand new car with 1,200 miles that I bought 2 months ago brand new.