Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo Problems

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Originally Posted by kyleb229

I have an 01 jeep grand cherokee limited V8. when I crank it up in the morning or after I get off of work it starts sputtering and sounding like it is about to cut off. The rpm's go very low and then back up. It doesn't do it all the time though. It starts idling roughly when I first crank it up or am sitting at a stop sign or redlight. It has cut off on me on more than one occasion. Most of the time it cranks up after first cutting off. Yesterday it cut off on me and I tried to crank it back but to no avail. After waiting a few min it started right up. It seems to just stall out on me, which is becoming a pain in the butt. I replaced the idle air control, the throttle position sensor and the fuel filter on my jeep. When I replaced the throttle position sensor it fixed the rough ildling but not the cutting off problem. Does anyone think that it could be the fuel pump? I sure hope not, since they are not cheap! Any ideas as to what it could be? If anyone has had this same problem please let me know!

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I too have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee, but the V6 version.

A few months back I experienced a similar problem where the car was idling low (around 500-600 RPMs) at a stoplight and then just shut off. It was running without problem for the 15 minutes prior to this. I restarted the car (after a few tries) and was able to get home by ensuring that I kept the RPM's above 700 or so. After talking with some people who know something about cars, I had the fuel filter replaced and also went ahead and had the fuel injection system cleaned. All of this was only about $70. This seemed to solve the problem for a few months.

About a month ago the car started acting up again. After struggling to start up it would immediately shutoff. The only way I could get it to start and remain running was to give it gas while engaging the starter. After it started I would again keep the RPM's above 700 and then sit there for a little while. Eventually (2-5 minutes later) I could remove my foot from the accelerator and the car would remain idling around 700 RPM's. The car would run fine as long as it was moving, but when it was stopped it was having difficulty idling. It didn't completely shut off, but the RPM's would waver between 500 and 700. Anytime it got near 500 it would get close to shutting down. This was the case for a few weeks.

Last week the car finely had enough and shut off a few times when I was at stoplights. I decided it wasn't worth driving around and have left it parked in the garage until I decided what to do. Today I searched a few sites with recommendations for stalling cars and tried a few things. One thing I tried was to see if the computer was outputting an error code that could be the problem. I went the key turning process to get the odometer to display the error code, but it just said "done", indicating that there were no codes. So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer and then reconnected and tried to drive the car. At first it seemed like things were getting better because the car would idle around 1000 RPM's. However, after just a few minutes it went back to idling around 700 RPM's and then it started dropping to 500 and below. At that point it was about to shut off and I kept it revved so I could get back home. So resetting the computer didn't work. There was also a recommendation to disconnect the MAP sensor and see what happens, so I did that and nothing changed. Still no good.

I saw this post and it sounded very similar to what was happening to my car. I thought I might be able to add some more detail in case someone had a brilliant idea. :idea: I too do not want to replace the fuel pump if possible because it is a costly repair due to the fact that the fuel tank has to be removed to change the pump. I am curious to see if changing the throttle position sensor will have any effect, but I don't know how to do that. Is it easy? Is there a website with details on where it is or how to do it?

Please let me know of anything you find out and I will do likewise. Thanks...

(For the record, I too have replaced both front window regulators. The first time I did it myself but paid the ridiculous $237 price tag for the part. The worst part was that the dealership made me pay $4 a piece for those crappy green plastic tabs that are gauranteed to break when you take the door apart. I was appalled. The second time I bought the regulator for $90 from the monsterautoparts.com site and did it myself in under an hour. Sorry to see that so many are having the same problems with there Jeeps.)

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Originally Posted by mightypuckett

I have 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee that suddenly shifts the overdrive off after driving at highway speed for about an hour. This in turn overheats the transmission (which I have recently had the fluid changed). If I drive less than 55 mph then this doesn't happen. When the overdrive shifts off and I push the button on the gear shift it won't shut off. Any thoughts?

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game-cheats-for-ps2 Jeep good

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Originally Posted by ff_

We had a 2001 GC as well. They're not the most reliable vehicles, and never really have been. Thank [insert the name of your supreme being here] they come with a warranty. Once the warranty expires, it's time to unload it.

Oh, and never admit that you own a Jeep, and never take it off road. grrrr.......

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game-cheats-for-ps2 good:thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by rachelofficer802

to any one out there who wants to say that all of us having problems are just bad drivers...do a little bit better research!
I am a normal driver, who does nothing but go back and forth on the highway. No off roading, no crazy driving, nothing...very careful driver
I have replaced brakes and rotors several times, window regulator, transmission X's 2 (its not fun to come off of a grave yard shift at the hospital, after being up for 24 hours, and have the car break down as the 2nd transmission blows in the middle of the major road way), front differential, rear differential, lines going to the transmission (after i am onto the 3rd transmission) blowing which in turn leaked out all my fluid and left me stranded just before a long trip out of state...and all of this was by 60,000 miles....i am not a genius, however 2 transmissions and brake jobs every 5 months seems a little excessive, especially when a transmission goes for $3,000 (thankfully the 2nd one was under warrenty, however that first one really hurt). I got rid of an '87 car, which cost me next to nothing to drive, to get this piece of junk that has cost me $7,000 in car repairs in 2 years...for a car that is only 5 years old, that's ridiculous...for everyone else out there...i really feel your pain....never ever ever again will i trust jeep GC's!!!!!!!

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my wife has a 99 jgc that only has 50k miles on it, i have replaced so many parts i had to sit down and make a list:1) rearend noise $300 2) fuel pump $350 3) headlights fogged up $200 4) fan motor sensor $150 5) fan motor $375 6)window motors $140 7) rotors and calipers $350 8) washer fluid motor $75 9) hood lift and rear hatch lift $60:mad2:

:blush2:

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Originally Posted by 1996LaredoGuy

I recently purchased a 1996 4WD Laredo :) . A couple days later my wife was driving it, and the front end started to shake uncontrollably :( . It shakes so bad the steering wheel also shakes. As my wife put it..."it almost feels like the tire is wobbling and going to fall off." It didn't do it again for about 1 week. Then it happened to me. It happened while I was applying the brake (same with my wife). The shaking does not stop after I release the brake. It normally lasts for about 10-15 seconds, then stops. It seems to be happening only under 40 mph. It doesn't happen all the time either. I'm clueless as to what it is, and I'm not quite ready to take it back to the dealership. I have called them and informed them about the problem, but they didn't know what the problem was either. :confused:
I've done several visuals of the tires, axle, and such, but can't find anything out of place. Can Anyone Help Me?!

Thanks,
1996LaredoGuy

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I bet a pound to a pinch of salt its your brake discs, I dont understand why your garage had no idea. Did you talk to a mechanic or the Telephone operator?

Sorry Darmech:

I have Jeep GC 2006, it has electrical problems, display sudenly starts flashing like crazy.
On 2 autorized dealerships they cannot find out the cause of this problem. Anyone has the same issues?

Thanks,

gcuser

Hello everyone, It's 7am on a Saturday and I'm about to head back to the job to again try to get my 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo to start before calling the tow man for the 3rd time ths year for this piece of crap.

Problem is a bit diff from all others on this forum and I hope it's not one in waiting for any of you. My car won't start because I can't turn the ignition key to start it. the steering lock mechanism is frozen. And believe me when I say it's frozen - IT"S FROZEN!. I've been working on it for the past 4 days. Before work, during lunch, and after work to no avail. and believe me I've tried all the commonly known suggestions - that's not it.

If anyone on here has any suggestions or have had similar problems with the locking mechanism, please respond asap! Before I forcefully break the %$#@ thing myself and have to repalce the whole ignition assembly.

Oh yeah, I've have the passenger window regulator issue - propped it up with a piece of 2x2 for now. Ordering repalcement from Monsterparts.com for 89.00. Guess I better start sawing off another one for the driver side after reading you all's posts.

also hood has to be propped up - 1 month after i purchased it went out.

A suggestion for tailight issue - both my right side braking and tailights went out on both sides - replacement bulbs fixed driver side but not braking on right. Turns out the leads were being shorted out in the bulb compartment. If u open it you may see burn marks on the plastic housing next to the leads. Temporary fix - turn the knob slowly as if removing it - back and forth and I bet u will see the light come on. you may also want to swap the bulb housings to see if one fit is better than the other. It's been working for me for about 2 months now.

Miracleously, haven't had the brake issue come up yet. I think they are just going to completely fall apart one day. One things for sure, my daughter will not be driving this hunk of junk when she gets her license in FEB. I will not trust my love ones to this piece of crap!

For them only the Toyota Camry will do.

I'm going to go out an get me an old nineties Honda or Toyota for under a grand somewhere and get back my piece of mind,

95 Jeep cherokee 5.2 v8 4 wheel drive

I have a loud vibration when i take a hard left curve. Any one know what it is?

My Grand Cherokee Laredo now has just over 158,000 miles on it..

I drive it hard on the highway, and gently off road, just a bit.

I've had the brake rotor problems, just like everyone else... I REFUSE to use Chrysler parts as replacements. aftermarket rotors last 4 times longer.

I had a major accident with it in 2001. I T-boned a guy that blew a stop sign at about 40MPH. No injuries, but my airbags never deployed. I think it's because the road was wet, and I spun him around minimizing the impact. Damage was over $8,000. I think I had around 58,000 miles on it at the time..

Anyway, even with that, the only problems I have had with my jeep are:

Brake rotors. I have replaced them 3 times so far, and will need to replace them again this summer.

The dealer gave me a ******** line that my truck didn't pass emissions inspection because of a cracked serpintine belt, and old anti-freeze. The cost for a fail and to take it somewhere else was the same, so they had me by the balls and they knew it. I had it replaced and gave them a photo of me to stick on the wall, because thats the last time the will ever see me.

Water pump at appox 90,000 miles

Actuator for auto door lock broken on rear passenger door. (still not fixed)

Turn signals only work intermittently when it gets below 60 degrees. Can't find problem.

I really like my Jeep. It's comfortable, and has all the power it did whe it was new. (Unlike my 91 Jimmy with the POS Vortec engine which lost power at about 60,000 miles)

I'll need a new one in the next year or so, but I won't be buying a Jeep, as much as I like them, they are just too non-responsive to their customers after they make the sale. I don't like the Ford Explorers either, friends have them and never take them off road, and they have too many issues. I won't buy another GM either for reasons above. It looks like I'll have to go to an import. Anyone have a recommendation?

ill try the cleaner! the battery replacement and hopefully that will solve my trans slip trouble!
should be cleaned anyway sometimes! and a new battery is handy in this cold weather:)
ill post later and let you trans problem folks know if it works! thx

I own a 2001 Grand Cherokee An I have had to replace 5 window regulators. Chrysler will not admit that have a defect in the regulator design.

my 1996 grand cherokee jeep 4x4 with 150k.in the mornings when i take off,the engine rev's high before going into 2 gear and it's not smooth transition.once ti warms up it's ok.

Im very new to this forum, and I have to admin that since I purchased my 2000 Grand Cherokee i've had problems. And one of them that i have right now, is that im loosing coolant rather quickly. I sent it to a mechanic to fix the problem. The coolant was infiltrating to the oil, making the oil milky white, and everytime i accelerated i would hear a water flow noise on the right passenger side, where the coolant was going to the oil. Since I fixed it, that sound was gone, and thought that i wasn't going to happen anymore, but now, no water flow noise but coolant is still leaking somewhere. My question is this, does anyone have any suggestions or anything that could explain to me what the problem could be?????? Why im I loosing so much coolant so rapidly?

Does anyone know a good source for after-market replacement window regulators and motors that will really fit?

We have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it is having problems with the lights in the rear. At night when you turn the lights on the brake lights nor the tail lights work. We have checked the fuses and we arent sure what is the matter. We have the extended warranty on the car but Daimler Chrysler will not fix it becasue it is not covered under that warranty. If anyone could help please contact me via email at bjc3121991@aol.com. Anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Sounds like a Transmission output sensor, TPS or a Governor pressure switch.

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Originally Posted by mightypuckett

I have 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee that suddenly shifts the overdrive off after driving at highway speed for about an hour. This in turn overheats the transmission (which I have recently had the fluid changed). If I drive less than 55 mph then this doesn't happen. When the overdrive shifts off and I push the button on the gear shift it won't shut off. Any thoughts?

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Had the exact problem with my Ford mustang, and after spending $400 at the dealer with no fix, i went to a friends mechanic, and a new trasmission fixed the whole problem, have been ok for 27,000 miles now.

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Originally Posted by sks6221

Does anyone know a good source for after-market replacement window regulators and motors that will really fit?

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Window regulator replacement, if the motor is making a sound when you press the window button it's good. Just replace the regulator!

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This is a response to my previous write-up

I ordered my new regulator from power up auto. http://www.powerupauto.com/ for 40+ dollars. I checked the site today and the price has already gone up to 90$. You can also get a regulator from Monsterautoparts.com. The price is still not too bad and I got it within a few days.I recommend that you send a email to them to confirm you are ordering the right one for your year vehicle.

INSTRUCTIONS:
It is easy to remove once you figure it out or have instructions...Remember, don’t try to use your window while it’s broke or you will burn up the electric motor. I taped the window in the up position until I got my new regulator.

1. Remove the door panel (3 screws: one in armrest and one near rearview mirror and last one is a hex head located in the door handle well)

2. Pop door panel off easily using a wide flat tip screw driver or something that’s plastic, thin and wide to prevent scratching… start popping it off at the bottom of the door in a corner….there are a bunch of plastic clips holding it on. Don't worry if a couple of them break you can order a few new ones for a couple bucks... No problem.

3. Once you get the panel popped out some, you need to disconnect the power window cable, power mirror cable, and door and lock controls so you can completely remove the panel. (cables have a little clip on the back of them, squeeze it to unlock and remove) (Door and lock metal rods have a plastic retainer, gently turn them and then easily pull out of their respective holes)

4. Remove the speaker (4 screws and unplug connector)

5. Remove the plastic cover (I had a black plastic cover under the door panel and it was attached with some black rubber like glue. The glue is none drying so if you remove it carefully, a little at a time it will stay on the plastic and you can re use it.

6. Where the window comes through the top of the door or ...the part that your arm rests on if you hang your arm out the open window....there are 2 rubber seals that the window comes up between when it’s raised. Remove the inner one (towards the inside of the car) you can pry it up and it will pop out. Be sure to save the 2 sponge looking things that are under each end if your model has them.

7. Take out the 2 clips that hold the window to the regulator. You will have to reach inside the door and pull them out, one on the left and right...no problem.

8. Window removal: Once you have removed the clips holding the window to the regulator you have to gently work the two window “nipples” out of the regulator holes. Once you have it up a little past the regulator window holding piece…turn the window so that the rear of it is up and comes out first….then work it upwards to remove it from the door. It should come out easily, if not take a break because you don’t want to buy glass too.

9. Unplug the power window cable from the window motor (located in the center of the door)

10. Remove screws that hold the regulator and the window motor to the inside of the door (I think there were 4 regulator screws and 3 holding the motor, they are different sizes) they are the only screws left.

11. Push the window motor cable inside the door, then tilt the entire unit from it’s up and down position to a horizontal left-right position. I then patiently fed it through the hole at the bottom right side of the door…under the hole where the speaker used to be.

12. Once out remove 2 screws? (I can’t remember but you will see) to remove the window motor from the regulator. Clean off the surface of the window motor and attach it to the new regulator. If you buy the regulator from http://www.powerupauto.com/Jeep1.html like I did, it comes with basic instruction on how to connect the motor to the regulator.

Install in reverse.

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Originally Posted by wks2001

Hello everyone, It's 7am on a Saturday and I'm about to head back to the job to again try to get my 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo to start before calling the tow man for the 3rd time ths year for this piece of crap.

Problem is a bit diff from all others on this forum and I hope it's not one in waiting for any of you. My car won't start because I can't turn the ignition key to start it. the steering lock mechanism is frozen. And believe me when I say it's frozen - IT"S FROZEN!. I've been working on it for the past 4 days. Before work, during lunch, and after work to no avail. and believe me I've tried all the commonly known suggestions - that's not it.

If anyone on here has any suggestions or have had similar problems with the locking mechanism, please respond asap! Before I forcefully break the %$#@ thing myself and have to repalce the whole ignition assembly.

Oh yeah, I've have the passenger window regulator issue - propped it up with a piece of 2x2 for now. Ordering repalcement from Monsterparts.com for 89.00. Guess I better start sawing off another one for the driver side after reading you all's posts.

also hood has to be propped up - 1 month after i purchased it went out.

A suggestion for tailight issue - both my right side braking and tailights went out on both sides - replacement bulbs fixed driver side but not braking on right. Turns out the leads were being shorted out in the bulb compartment. If u open it you may see burn marks on the plastic housing next to the leads. Temporary fix - turn the knob slowly as if removing it - back and forth and I bet u will see the light come on. you may also want to swap the bulb housings to see if one fit is better than the other. It's been working for me for about 2 months now.

Miracleously, haven't had the brake issue come up yet. I think they are just going to completely fall apart one day. One things for sure, my daughter will not be driving this hunk of junk when she gets her license in FEB. I will not trust my love ones to this piece of crap!

For them only the Toyota Camry will do.

I'm going to go out an get me an old nineties Honda or Toyota for under a grand somewhere and get back my piece of mind,

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Take the plastic cover off from around the ignition switch or lay in the driver side floor and look up into the steering column on the opposite side of the ignition switch. The cable from the shifter connects in there...it may be jammed. If not the problem then you need to pull the ignition switch, it craped out on you.

:mad2: I have been back to the dealer three times for the same thing, It just dosen't start. They have replaced the module and battery in July that was the second time I had visited the dealer with the problem. Now last week Jan. 5th I was back with the same problem, they cant figure out the problem so they just changed the battery! I have been considering contacting a attorney.

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Originally Posted by gcuser

I have Jeep GC 2006, it has electrical problems, display sudenly starts flashing like crazy.
On 2 autorized dealerships they cannot find out the cause of this problem. Anyone has the same issues?

Thanks,

gcuser

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Originally Posted by littlebiggy3

:confused:
I have a 1994 Jeep GC Laredo V8 5.4L and have experienced loud clunking noises coming from both the front and back end while turning. It seems to be worse once the car has been driven at highway speed for 20 min or more. I'm not sure what this noise could possibly be, but I not only hear the noise, but feel the car sort of pull or chug while turning. I have had two mechanics tell me that this is normal for 4x4 vehicles; I personally have never driven one before so do not know. I do realize that my Jeep is all time 4x4, but this noise and motion that the car makes when turning does not feel like something that could be normal. I was just wondering if it is, and if it is not a common occurence, then what it could be.

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I also own a 94 limited and had the exact same issue. The dealer was of no help at all ( you think they would be the experts ) and after a couple of different mechanics looking at it I was sent to a guy by a buddy who found it to be the viscus coupler located in the transfer case. This corrected the problem but was very expensive. I also saw a slight improvement in my gas mileage. P.S. had the jeep for 11 years now and I love it !

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Originally Posted by SAConnors

I too have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee, but the V6 version.

A few months back I experienced a similar problem where the car was idling low (around 500-600 RPMs) at a stoplight and then just shut off. It was running without problem for the 15 minutes prior to this. I restarted the car (after a few tries) and was able to get home by ensuring that I kept the RPM's above 700 or so. After talking with some people who know something about cars, I had the fuel filter replaced and also went ahead and had the fuel injection system cleaned. All of this was only about $70. This seemed to solve the problem for a few months.

About a month ago the car started acting up again. After struggling to start up it would immediately shutoff. The only way I could get it to start and remain running was to give it gas while engaging the starter. After it started I would again keep the RPM's above 700 and then sit there for a little while. Eventually (2-5 minutes later) I could remove my foot from the accelerator and the car would remain idling around 700 RPM's. The car would run fine as long as it was moving, but when it was stopped it was having difficulty idling. It didn't completely shut off, but the RPM's would waver between 500 and 700. Anytime it got near 500 it would get close to shutting down. This was the case for a few weeks.

Last week the car finely had enough and shut off a few times when I was at stoplights. I decided it wasn't worth driving around and have left it parked in the garage until I decided what to do. Today I searched a few sites with recommendations for stalling cars and tried a few things. One thing I tried was to see if the computer was outputting an error code that could be the problem. I went the key turning process to get the odometer to display the error code, but it just said "done", indicating that there were no codes. So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer and then reconnected and tried to drive the car. At first it seemed like things were getting better because the car would idle around 1000 RPM's. However, after just a few minutes it went back to idling around 700 RPM's and then it started dropping to 500 and below. At that point it was about to shut off and I kept it revved so I could get back home. So resetting the computer didn't work. There was also a recommendation to disconnect the MAP sensor and see what happens, so I did that and nothing changed. Still no good.

I saw this post and it sounded very similar to what was happening to my car. I thought I might be able to add some more detail in case someone had a brilliant idea. :idea: I too do not want to replace the fuel pump if possible because it is a costly repair due to the fact that the fuel tank has to be removed to change the pump. I am curious to see if changing the throttle position sensor will have any effect, but I don't know how to do that. Is it easy? Is there a website with details on where it is or how to do it?

Please let me know of anything you find out and I will do likewise. Thanks...

(For the record, I too have replaced both front window regulators. The first time I did it myself but paid the ridiculous $237 price tag for the part. The worst part was that the dealership made me pay $4 a piece for those crappy green plastic tabs that are gauranteed to break when you take the door apart. I was appalled. The second time I bought the regulator for $90 from the monsterautoparts.com site and did it myself in under an hour. Sorry to see that so many are having the same problems with there Jeeps.)

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I had a Dodge Dakota that did this until it was undrivable, it ended up being the MAP sensor. If you disconnect the MAP sensor it should run awful, if it didnt change how it ran it may be the bad part. The Throttle Position Sensor is easy to change out. Go to your local parts store and purchase a repair manual for your vehicle if you are serious about doing this easy TPS replacement.

I've just about had it with this one!! I am having a problem with the overdrive lockout switch. When I start the car, the OD off light should come on briefly then go out. Sometimes the light comes on and stays on, and the car starts out in second gear, feeling like the tranny is slipping. The governer pressure solenoid and governer pressure transducer swtches along with a wiring harness have all been replaced yet the problem lives on. Has anyone had the same problem?? Any suggestions other than driving it off a cliff ??

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Originally Posted by jank

We have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a whopping 19,000 + miles on it. At 13,000 miles and still under warranty the brakes were replaced because of the pulsing problem. Rotors. Now, 6,000 miles later, it is starting again. Called the dealer who admitted the problem and said that Chrysler knows about it. Obviously. This fix is on us - money wise. And I was told that it was no problem as far as safety. Can that be? Any recourse?

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My 2002 has window problems, two have fallen down.Dealership wants 400.00 per window to repair.This a two wheel drive model that has never been off road.

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Originally Posted by lilbuddy

I've just about had it with this one!! I am having a problem with the overdrive lockout switch. When I start the car, the OD off light should come on briefly then go out. Sometimes the light comes on and stays on, and the car starts out in second gear, feeling like the tranny is slipping. The governer pressure solenoid and governer pressure transducer swtches along with a wiring harness have all been replaced yet the problem lives on. Has anyone had the same problem?? Any suggestions other than driving it off a cliff ??

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You said you changed the governer pressure solenoid.

Did you change the Governor pressure sensor?

If you did check the $30 part.... The Transmission output sensor may be the problem.

Go to this address to see and read about it

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...lr%3D%26sa%3DG