Amps

I have posted before but I am back with another question. I have two cerwin vega stroker 122s (12") and want to get a new amp. I am currently running two amps, one to each and I want to go with a single amp. I was thinking a class D 1500 watt mono or 2000 watt mono. I also just replaced my factory inside speakers and want to amp them up but dont know what to add. I was considering a 4 channel memphis audio amp but i have not decided. Ideas? Thanks

If you can get ahold of the MTX amps from two generations ago, they're increadible, and a good price.

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/images/a...r1501D_400.jpg
The one's that look like this. The series before was good too, but those are getting to be a bit too old, and the new ones are just lousy.

Havent had any luck with finding the MTX amp. I have heard alot of good things about Memphis audio. Anyone know anything about them? And what would you suggest for my inside speakers?

They're good amps, but if yuou get one that is asting even a little weird, get rid of it. Memphis stuff is like BMW, awesome when it works right, but as soon as something goes wrong, it will keep breaking and end up costin three times what it's worth to keep it running.

I found one of the MTX 1501D amps on ebay but I am not very fond of buying used amps just because of personal experience, especially if the amp doesnt look like it was takin very good care of. Which Memphis would you suggest? Or is there another brand I could go with?

The two MTX amps I saw on there looked to be fine. That powder coat finish shows dirt easily, and the stainless steel is virtually a mirror (and you can imagine how well a mirror would look after being in your trunk for a couple months.

As for the memphis amps, I would suggest the MCD 1500, it's the only one that would priduce the power you want.

I have always went of the rule that you should feed your subs 75% to 80% of what the RMS wattage is, and on my strokers they each RMS at 2000 watts. So I guess my question is why would I want to give 1500 watts to a load that can handle a 4000 watt RMS?

That's more directed at subs with wattages around 4-500w rms. 1500 watts with those subs in the right kind of enclosure is easily capable of 145dB if not 150, and that is more than you can take on a continuous basis (I've tried, it starts making you sick after a few minutes)

I am wanting to gert into the SPL competitions so I want to be sounding good. Just everyday driving I dont beat continously I just want to be able to do good place in a comp. Is there a good 2000 watt mono block that I could run it? Or is that a bad idea?

save the money on the amp and use it to buy sound deadening and design a better box. That will yill yield you a greater increase in spl than an extra 1500 watts will. The sound deadening will help keep the sound inside the car, as well as make it sound better. Plus, you may be allowed to compete in a lower wattage class, which will give you an advantage.

Ok I will try to get one of those amps. I emailed the guy at secondskinaudio.com and he is going to set me up with some damplifierpro and than recommend where I should go from there. What are some good specs on a box to have built? I have one now but I have a feeling it is not big enough. You can probably tell by the picture. http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=24946928
Also should I install some of the damplifier inside the box?

No, do not deaden the box, just brace it like hell.

Ok I will try to get one of those amps. I emailed the guy at secondskinaudio.com and he is going to set me up with some damplifierpro and than recommend where I should go from there. What are some good specs on a box to have built? I have one now but I have a feeling it is not big enough. You can probably tell by the picture. http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=24946928

you're pic link doesn't work

I attached them to this.

Looks like a decent box. Give me the outside dimentions (hight x width x depth), and the port dimentions (HxWxD too).

Box
H 15"
W 34.5"
D 20.5"
Port (just one)
H 15"
W 34.5"
D 2"

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jshak07

Box
H 15"
W 34.5"
D 20.5"
Port (just one)
H 15"
W 34.5"
D 2"

---

wrong dimension.. port is
H 15"
W 2"
D 20.5"

You box should be fine. It's a 4 cubic foot box with a 35 hz tuning. It's a pretty good balance for what yopu're looking for. It's small enough and tuned low enough to give you some control when listening to music everyday. But it has enough space and high enough tuning to present you some fairly good SPL numbers.

If you dont mine me asking, how did you figure out the tuning of it? So your suggestion is keep the box and upgrade the amps and sound deaden the hell out of my car?

http://www.linearteam.dk/

I want to rewire my subs, because it has a 20 gauge speaker wire and I want to make it lower about a 12 gauge, and trying to figure the best way to wire it. I saw at crutchfield.com that it should run a positive to a negative on opposite voice coils and than the other positivie and negative (which are on separate voice coils) to the amp. Is this a good way to do it. And is that what is called a series?

basically on your subs, take a negative of one voice coil, and attach it to a positive on the other voice coil. On the remaining connectors (one pos, one neg per sub, plus pos and neg on amp), just connect like terminals together (pos, pos, pos and neg, neg, neg)

This gives you what is called series/parallel wiring.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161
Look for 2 DVC drivers with voice coils wired in series/parallel for a wiring diagram.

Is it a bad idea to mount my amp onto my box? I have been told that I shouldnt due to the vibrations but than i have eard that the box doesnt take as much vibration as the car does so it is a good idea? Any suggestions?

I've always mounted amps onto the box. Most amplifier makers have isolation feet on their amps to reduce the vibration on the amp.

I am purchasing a MTX 1501D but I was wondering, when I change to this amp should I keep my spare battery back there? I dont know how much I like capacitors because I dont think they do alot of good but should i just downgrade to a smaller battery. Maybe a kinetik or something?

I recommend the Optima Yellow Top. Just put it wherever it fits, no need to vent it. Nice thing about it is the fact that you can drain it completely, and it will still recharge and hold a charge unlike almost every other battery out there. The big key with an amp that size is you want to have 1/0 wire running from your alternator, to your battery, to the amp, to the ground. That will do the most to prevent voltage drop.

what size of the optima yellow top do you think? and should i put a digital capacitor on it just to monitor my volts

There are about a dozen different sizes of Yellow Top. If you really think you need to monitor the voltage (which is more or less unimportant), just get a cheapo voltage gauge from Autozone or something. Don't waste your money on a cap.

I looked em up on ebay and there are alot of sizes, which one do you recommend?

Sizes of what? All you need for a voltage meter is one that goes up to about 18 volts

The optima yellow top, there is alot of different ones, i am not to interested in the voltage meter.

Whatever size fits where you want to mount it. I went with 2 of the smallest size, one to replace the stock battery, and one to go in the trunk