The Unending Turbonator / Tornado / Spiralmax / etc Debate

Thanks, JediKnight. How much did you put in?

Also, to be sure, it will help to repeat this test a couple times. My Focus has gotten anywhere from 300 to 360 miles per tank depending on how I've driven it and such.

Uh-Oh! Did I need to record the gallons of gas I put in?! I never had to do something like this. I've had other cars with built in fuel computers (Lincolns/Cadillacs), and this car does not have one. If I need to do that, PLEASE let me know, so I can re-do this test as soon as I can. I assumed that a full tank of gas would have been an adequate measurement. If not, please post something here! I will start my test all over again to get it right the first time. Thanks, guys. May the Force be With You!

WHOA!! 300+ miles to a tank of gas?!?! Man, I need a new car! I wish my car got mileage close to that. Hazard, Georgia? Is that the inspiration for the 'Dukes of Hazzard'?

Well, my claim to where I live is sort of a joke. There isn't a real Hazard County. But I live in the area where they filmed the first episodes were filmed, Newton County (It's also where they filmed the TV version of In the Heat of the Night.). They have Dukes reunions every year, with the people who bought the cars from the original show or built replicas making anual pilgrimages.

As for recording the amount you put in, it's usually a bit more accurate than the fuel gauge. I've had cars where filling it up on "empty" could differ by a gallon between fill-ups. But the pumps always fill it to pretty close to the same amount before shutting off.

Yeah, those mpg computers sure are handy, aren't they? I had two cars that had them.

WOW! Slanter, that is pretty damn cool! I LOVED the 'Dukes' when I was a kid. I even liked the 'cousins' alternates they used when they had that legendary contract dispute fiasco. I have no faith in the new movie coming out soon... Anyway, Slanter, something I was thinking. Do you think heavy Air Conditioning use would bog up my test? I almost always have it on now, and I was thinking today it might seriously mess up the usage numbers. The car idles much faster when the AC is on, living in the Bronx and all, I'm in traffic a lot. What do you think? And, yes, I wish my car had a fuel computer! I had a nice Continental that had one, and a Coupe DeVille. It would be great right now! Anyway S, if you could reply to this, that would be sweet. ANYONE ELSE HAVE A FUEL COMPUTER?????

I'm wouldn't worry about A/C. As long as you use it about as much in both tests and test a couple tankfuls each way, it should balance out.

And I definitely regret that I missed seeing the time they had a live General Lee jump here a few years ago.

Yo, Slanter. While I'm conducting my test, it will take a few weeks to accurately complete. Is there anyway you have pictures of your cars? If so, you can leave me a private message. I'd like to see them. If not, that's ok to. My friend around the corner has a Dart, I think it's a '66. He's like 80, and the car has like 300,000 miles on it. The car runs great, too!! The engine runs super smooth. I think it's incredible. They just don't make 'em like they used too!

I don't have any pictures of the Focus or Spitfire yet. The Focus is just a stock silver hatchback anyway. Right now the Spitfire is trapped in my carport, but I will get some pictures when it is moving under its own power.

But I do have some pictures of the Dart. They were in the old Gallery but I hadn't uploaded them when they updated the Gallery software. I'll put them in the Gallery now. Here's the link:

http://gallery.carreview.com/showgal...&ppuser=232951

Thanks, Slanter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JediKnight

Uh-Oh! Did I need to record the gallons of gas I put in?! I never had to do something like this. I've had other cars with built in fuel computers (Lincolns/Cadillacs), and this car does not have one. If I need to do that, PLEASE let me know, so I can re-do this test as soon as I can. I assumed that a full tank of gas would have been an adequate measurement. If not, please post something here! I will start my test all over again to get it right the first time. Thanks, guys. May the Force be With You!

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OK, OK, OK, I know these things probably do not work but I am curious to see how this test plays out with JediKnight.
What you need to do JediKnight is fill up and record the number of miles then divide that by the number of gallons. You then will have the MPG number. Record that number and keep it somewhere easy to find. If you could do that for 5 tanks of gas with normal driving and then do it with 5 tanks of gas of normal driving without the "vortex generator" I would be interested in knowing the results.
I am in no way a mechanic but I am always interested in more power and better mileage.
On a side note my girl drives a Jetta TDI and VW's big claim with the TDI is that the engine creates a "vortex" that will then allow for a more thorough and cleaner burn of the diesel. Just an observation.
Thanks
TMillard
www.fattmattsskate.com

The only problem I have with these "backyard" style of experiments is that they are not controlled. Personally, I'm pretty neutral on the whole debate. If you could manage to pull some legitimate stats that the thing works as claimed, good for you. If not, prove that it does. The biggest gripe I have with the "I'll fill my tank 5 times with and 5 times without." is the person behind the wheel. I can guarantee that my gas miliage will fluctaute from fill up to fill up just based on my driving habits for the last 2 weeks (I fill up twice a month). It depends on traffic, how I feel that day, the weather, the condition of my car, etc. Tons of variables to throw this experiment off the chart.

I don't think it will prove functionality for or against the product. A more controlled environment would be (afraid to say), the aforementioned dyno testing. A specific amount of gas, a consistant MPH, etc. Something that could be charted. My opinon anyway. But in these days with OMG HUGE!! mufflers and Type R stickers...hey, if you want to toss in an apple slicer into your engine air flow, go for it! ;)

Thanks Matt... One problem I just noticed on my car, at least it's not too late yet. I got a leak in the gas tank! It is a small pinhole, no big deal to fix. I bottomed out at the local 7-11. Didn't think it was that bad, BUT... now all my previous tests and stuff is a washout! I didn't even notice it, a neighbor told me I had an oil leak. I said he was nuts. NO WAY. Sure enough, being parked on a hill, the gas was spreading to the front, making it look like an oil leak!! I am trying to run the gas down, then, I will park on the hill again. With all the gas up 'front', I should be able to get one of those 'sealer kits' to fix it... I REALLY don't want to drop the gas tank. If I did that, I might as well replace the gas pump too... I'll keep you posted. This is getting to be frustrating and harder than I thought. This will take awhile...

Hello,

First of all sorry for my english. I;m from Europe (Romania) and i ordered that thing, the transistor that you should put into the plug before the air filter. I have a BMW 520i. I installed that thing and the only change is that the engine stop running when i wait on the semaphores.I threw it away in the same day. All those wich are selling torbonators.. tornados.....hurricanes.. and el ninios :)) are scammers...How can a can a little thing can improve the fuel consumption and power and cost. a few dollars.. and the bmw and other manufacturers engineers, could'n figured out? Is stupid. About the turbonater,
1. the name for that thing is worng from the begining.. we all know what turbo means and that thing is not running from 2000-2500 rpm and up.. and reburn the gasses like the real turbos. My poit is, if you put a name on one thing that is far from what the name means.. you're lieing also when you're talking about the performance.
If you want to increase power on your car and i wanna do it cheap, just put a K&N air filter and change the exaust with something better. Is cheaper and reliable.

So what everyone is trying to say it that, THE TURBONATOR DOES NOT WORK!!!!! It sure would be nice if the thing worked but just like everyone has said 5 million times there is just no way you can get all that for such little cost. I have a V6 Camaro and I really want to buy body kits, an air intake, rims and tires, a spring kit, a billet grill, a stripe package, and etc. but all that seems like a waste of money when i can just save it all up and buy a Z28 or an SS later. But, right now i have to save money anyway because i am going to begin my freshmen year in college and i need to save as much money as possible. I really like my V6 cause you get better fuel mileage anyway compared to a V8 LT1 or LS1 but eventually i want that power. So, i guess it is better to save then buy all that stuff and it still not be as good as a Z28 or SS, RIGHT? :confused:

Hey guy, joined this forum because as far as I can tell its the most indepth dicussion of this turbonator. I'm driving a 2001 Tiburon, and I absolutley love the car and I really could care less of anyones opinion of it. I went from and '92 Eagle Talon to this and I very statisfied.

Ive been looking for inexpensive way to get some extra power. Now I do have a K&N cold air intake. I assumed some of its effectivness was allowing more air to be sucked into the chambers to increase combustion rate. Now when I first saw teh add I assumed is a was vortex fan, working similar to a supercharger. Thats not the case.

So after the big intro, my question to you is, if I took this stuping little fan, or something simialr to it.... could I install it to the housing of my intake and rig an electric motor to spin the fan effectivley enough to gain a few extra HP?????

Hi all,

please forgive my poor English as I am Australian. ;)

For starters in my job working for turbonator....I mean K-Mart...I have learned one thing. The petrol pumps in Melbourne have been rated by the local consumer mobs to be 25% out. The pumps are not 25% out but 25% of the pumps are out, the majority read high. So assumming that you want to measure fuel flow, use the same station, the same pump and (I am guessing here) but also the same time of day to fill up as I know (in the outback, hot) petrol expands as the day becomes hotter

Very interesting chat and great explanations Slanter and others. I quite like all explaining w/o flaming, very cool. (IMO).

Unusual to meet a cultured Yank (Slanter)...I also drive a Triumph, a 77 Stag but. My work car is a 2000MY WRX STi and yes the Stag uses more petrol (balanced, blue`d, ported, Holley) but God what a car.

Now to my question!!! Why do Yanq's still use Imperial (ie colonial footprint, salute the King etc) while us colonies ie Oz, Canada went Metric yonks ago, even GB is Metric (so they say). Just a question.

I grew up on Dukes and saw the clip going round on the web about the car (um sorry forget type) going round the roundabout in the rain(?) very cool driving.

remseesee70

ps: in case it's not clear, I like Americans, American cars, have lived there and have some Merkin friends, any interpreted flames or disrespect is not intended...so please spare me.

After all that excitement I forgot to ask has anyone used POR 15 fuel tank fixer? http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=163

No I haven't thread searched.

rmcc,

I haven't used their fuel tank sealer, but POR-15 has a pretty good reputation. Still, I wouldn't count on a chemical product to seal any holes bigger than a few pinholes, and would recommend replacing a rusty gas tank rather than trying a chemical fix.

Hey Slanter you seem to be the guy who everyone is going to for help! Well I need to know if you think buying a 02 Camaro Z28 or SS is better than putting a **** load into my 02 Camaro V6. I want to put body kits, air intake, rims and tires, and a whole bunch of other stuff and it would reach around $3,500 to do it all. YOu think it would be better to just buy a better car than the V6 or just deck out my V6? I was also thinking about getting a turbonatr! The offer just sounds to good to be true. Well peace from the LONE STAR STATE!!!!!!!!!

Hello Mr. Slanter

Firstly, that image you have as your avatar there has two connotations.
1st. It reminds me of yon discussed turbinator ie the whole swirling blade thing.
2nd. Excuse my lack of understanding of history but didn't Leyland turbinate Triumph? and you drive a Triumph yourself. Is this not sacreligous for a Triumph man.

The POR-15 seems to have a good rep in Oz However I am just suss` about plastic bottles of wonder goo covering up pinholes in your petrol tank. How do you know if have have sloshed enough?

aremcsee70

ps: one Merkin car I love would be most all Studebakers, the Hawk and Avente(?) were so cool looking. I believe the Aventi(?) is still made in Canada but could be wrong.

Well, Leyland built the Triumph I have. The swirl and L logo appears all over my Spitfire - on the pedals, several places under the hood, etc. That's why I am using it as my avatar. On the other hand, maybe I should go with a '60s Dodge Triangle.

Anyway, I haven't used the tank filler myself. I'd probably try to get the liquid to run across all the surfaces two or three times, then test the tank by filling it with water once it's dry before putting it in the car.

I just bought a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon SE. I was thinking of getting 3 turbonators for it to possibly increase the Hp and Mpg. Has anyone tried installing more than 1 turbonator at a time?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bread Slicer

I just bought a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon SE. I was thinking of getting 3 turbonators for it to possibly increase the Hp and Mpg. Has anyone tried installing more than 1 turbonator at a time?

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You should sooooo totally do that and post your results. Serious. What are you waiting for? YOU RUN NOW!! TO STORE!! YOU BUY!!!

:P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bread Slicer

I just bought a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon SE. I was thinking of getting 3 turbonators for it to possibly increase the Hp and Mpg. Has anyone tried installing more than 1 turbonator at a time?

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I'm pretty sure you would get three times the effect of one. :D

Dear Bread Slicer,

I take your point. 1 is good, 3 is better. I think this thread and site are unfairly anti-turbinator. Did you notice that the 'biggest' anti-turbinator fan has the swirling 'turbinator like' logo as his avatar? I am not smart enough to work these things out but I think he is trying to put me off from installing one but trying to show he is supressed by the 'corporates'. It wouldn't surprise me if he worked for a petrol company yet has a guilty conscience.

I intend to buy a 3 metre tube (10 foot for those Queen worshippers) and install 5 turbinators at 2 foot apart. The tube will run along the top of the car (this is only for testing a`la those stooges 'Myth-Busters') and feed back via a flexible hose into the carbie. I want to install a very large scoop to feed into the pipe to force air flow. Obv. this is only for the strip and I couldn't drive this on the road as cops (and corp's!!!) would stop me.

I am excited about potential results and am already thinking of calling turbinator and asking them to sponsor me against signage on the car . If they agree then I will ask for 10 turbinators for free (borrow only, I will return). In the same 10 foot space...God, what a road rocket!!!

Now I have a question for anyone who can be bothered helping me out after that rant. I saw a 'thing' at the last Melbourne Motor Show that somehow up`s the spark on a plug to create a better 'burn front'. Apparently the voltage thru. the plug is upped to create a bigger spark (or some such guff). I know it is shyte but would like to know why. Yes, I am genuinely that dumb.

:)

arrrhemseesee70

ps: saw a prime Stude Hawk in peak hour on the Monash Fwy today.

although somebody said to try it, i was wondering if anyone has tried it? does it affect your warranty on the car too? i cant figure that out?-

No slanter does not work for any petrol companies lol. And turbonators are a waste of money as we have stated before. Also those fans that blow air in the intake dont work check beggining of the thread to a link where someone tested one of them. They lost HP.... The whole more hten one turbonator on a car, wow wont work dont know where you guys come up with these ideas...

He doesn't work for a petrol company? Then perhaps the illuminati? ;)

Anyways...here is one example of this sparkplug thing.
http://www.4strokes.com/reviews/icat/

I believe the basic theory/spiel is that car companies manufacturer the coil/ignition to the lowest possible spec to get the car moving thus save money. This special bit boosts the spark (current?,voltage?) to a better and more complete burn thus more power, less emission ra, ra ... the usual thing.

I liked the explanation on why the turbinator didn't work and wonder if someone could explain this one.

If it does work I am going to hook up 5 or 6 to each spark plug.

arrghem see? see?

ps: Stag dumped a Welch plug the other day. Typical Triumph rubbish.

Another way I have heard of doubling my mileage (interesting that we don't say kilometerage!!!) is a technique I read about that where you measure the size of the container in your boot (metric or imperial I don't yet know) that holds petrol and add ANOTHER ONE exactly the same size. I don't know if this decreases emissions but with the price of petrol anything that doubles mileage is good.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rmcc70

He doesn't work for a petrol company? Then perhaps the illuminati? ;)

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Er, actually I'm working on an assignment from the Learned Elders of Zion right now. :D

Quote:

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Anyways...here is one example of this sparkplug thing.
http://www.4strokes.com/reviews/icat/

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On a more serious note, under all the system's technobabble, that looks like a simple extended burn ignition. Extended burn spark systems have been around for a while. It's a similar theory to what MSD or Ford's EDIS uses for multiple sparks, only it's one long spark instead of a bunch of small ones. The idea of extending the ignition event is sound, but it works differently for different engines. Some combustion chambers don't seem to benefit from such a system at all, while others seem to see pretty big benefits. That system was developed for engines running propane, which is a bit harder to ignite than gasoline and might possibly benefit more.

I don't know much about that one in particular. Ignition parts, since they are sealed away in plastic boxes, sometimes seem a bit prone to dubious copies of sound designs. I'd want to see a dyno test with some decent documentation before making any definite judgements about that particular one. The one thing that makes me a little suspicious is that they use enough gratuitous jargon that it seems like they're almost trying to hide what it actually does, which may be a sign that they're not on the up and up, or just a case of a very confused advertising department.

A very well done article on the awesome effects of the iCat...

Reading thru this thread on the Turbonator made me laugh a bit, shake my head a lot, and learn a bit along the way. Thanks for a very entertaining evening.

I know of one very very real performance enhancer thats inexpensive. Like lego blocks you can add into your car and gain more gas milage, higher performance, better takeoffs, improved handling, and greater reliablity. And all very very cheap.

Example, simply changing your driving habits can literally double your milage, depending on the little rpm loving torque monstor your loveing... Save the fuel burn for when you need the burn and you will be amazed how much your milage will increase.

While your at that step, might as well learn to control that rocket completly. So when you hit the turns your not pumping fuel like a lsd crazed gamer playing ridgeracer. Give the corner what it needs and learn to control the ride thru it. Learning the best path to place the car with the right amount of fuel and brake to manage it gets everything handling so much better.

This two steps also have a great increase in the reliability of your rice rice cracker mobile. Less stress, better driving, faster performance, better milage, winning races, cruising canyons... But.. If you also take the time to do all the required maintance... And not just 'regularly scheduled maintance' but 'when baby needs it' kinda maintaince. Change the filters and oil depending on demand. Better yet, use synthetics from the very beginning and keep a keen eye on the quality of those fluids before running hard. Not so hard to take a peek at what clean fluids smell, look, and heck why not, those hazard boys did it, and taste like. Then check your fluids in ritual like fashion, checking not only where it lands on the dip stick, but the quality of whats on that dipstick. Change your own fluids as well, everytime you do, take the time to look at everything you can. Make sure it always looks the same, kinda simple thing there. And get your fingers dirty and poke about in the waste fluids looking for crap.

Those steps produce real, solid, and lifetime improvements for any car, and will extend the lifetime and resell value positivly. Past that, when you feel its really must be time to get more amp outta the box, take a serious clue into what is happening at any race event in the world. Just wander down to a track, a race, etc, and look at the cars. And follow what they are doing. Learn a bit about the mechanics of it, and then start bolting on real modifications that make real sense.

Cause all the rest of it is just... Well...

Rice Rice Baby

Hello Mr Anjiin,

I gather you are making fun of my accent and the way we say engine. Never mind my shoulders are broad and my mind narrow.

I fully agree with your comments on driving style and one tip that one of the Oz driving "heroes" (a Mr Brock, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Brock) mentioned more years ago then I care to remember (probably the early 70's oil crises) about imagining a peach between your foot and the accelerator and to try to drive without bruising the peach. (Actually on a side note the printed school child advice, of which I was one, printed `between the accelerator pedal and the floor'...confused me for years). Other advice provided at the time was to slow down for a red light and creep to a stop, slowly, so that when the light goes green the car is still moving and thus the resultant momentum saves heaps of petrol as you don't need to accelerate from a dead stop. Now I have no problem with the peach concept (in fact it is just peachy) but when even one moron creeps to a red light in peak hour traffic...good God, the effect is horrendous. I do in fact drive in the 'peachy' manner usually but the thread is about 20cent add-on`s that make you go faster and, being not very smart, I have trouble sorting the wheat from the chaff. Thus thought I had found gold when Google gifted it to me the other day.

Even Peter 'Perfect' Brock (check the wiki) had trouble with this and recommended everyone install jelly crystals in their car (I kid yee not) to align the molecules.

Another brilliant point you raise is to educate yourself by going to race meetings etc and talk to the mechanics and learn things. I did this at Bathurst (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathurst_1000) and the lads were very cool and loved to explain but they were mechanics not communicators and it went way over my head. So I enrolled myself in night school, engine rebuilding (see my link to see my 3K, bored, blued, balanced and ported). I am a computer nerd who loves cars and was ripped off heaps, (try owning a Stag `sigh`) and felt if I wanted to continue the hobby I had to learn the basics. I learnt a tad and also learned that not all mechanics (engine rebuilders) are rip off mongrels (do yanq`s say mongrel?) and a few of them are veerrryyyy smart and do have your best interests at heart. But I only learnt this by learning the basics myself.

I could go on and on as I love the sound of my own typing and being a computer nerd have no friends (no, today that useless Stag is no friend) but I won't.

Well I will go on :) you forget the pure joy of running a V8 in third to hear the exhaust note and the fuel burn in the pipes as you slow down. Also the joy of a high RPM turbo beast cruising at 60kph in 2nd gear. None of these are good for peaches.

And regards car maintenance, yes spot on, but education is the key to knowing what crap fluid etc looks like. And sadly, why would yuppies (like me) educate themselves in a blue collar game? Thus the 'turbinator' and lots of dumb questions re: it (including mine).

I could rabbit on but will stop here. Ok, one more thing, the teachers at 'school' recommend cheap (but reputable) 20W40 oil for the Stag and not synthetics...I still don't understand the answer even though they have explained it even simpler terms over three times.

Count Morflock the 12th

I have been looking trough most of this discussion and i`ve got this impression that that turbonator doesn`t work... My car have about 90hp (diesel) and i really need more hp in a cheap way because i have college to pay for.... it`s a durable and comfortable car it only needs some sparco chairs and some tuning like air filter and so.. (Is PIPERCROSS any good??) please give me some advice!!
I belive slanter because i havent seen any dymo results yet.. And i belive that it only slows the air down!!! I was planning to buy one or two.. but i live in Norway so i wanted to be absolutely shure that this El ñino actually works.. and i stumbled across this discussion forum with the headline "Does the turbonator actually work??" and i knew right away that it`s a reason they ask that question!! Keep up the good work slanter!!!
Sorry bout my crappy english...

Thanks!!

Hi all:

Listen, just wanted to give my two cents worth about this whole "turbonator" discussion. (And you will notice that I neither have poor grammar, nor do I apologize in advance for it...) :)

Look, really, it boils down to this: if it were THAT easy, wouldn't everyone shell out the $70.00 and just be done with it.

I mean, especially us performance nuts! If we could spend less than 100 clams and get 20-30 horsepower out of our cars, hell -- we'd be knocking down their doors!

I own a 1995 Nissan 300ZX -- less than 55,000 miles. Factory rated bHP at the flywheel around 222-225. This car moves. 0-60 in just under 7 sec. Top speed -- 148 mph.

The twin turbos are even better. Legendary performance. C&D's Car of the Year in the performance class for 6 straight years. Performed like Lotus Esprit Turbos for less than $40,000 -- NEW!!!!!!

But the point I want to make is this: There is an ACTUAL "Stage Chart" that tells you step by step how to force bHP into this particular car. It was essentially designed to be really fast off the showroom floor, and crazy fast (like a Murcielago or f40) with a little time and dough.

AND NOT ONE OF THE STAGES INVOLVES INTRODUCING A "VORTEX" AIR-SPIRALLING MECHANISM INTO THE INTAKE!!!!

You start with a low-flow intake.
You go on to a hi-perf cat-back exhaust.

And so on...

All in all, I can make a 300ZX T.T. have more than 450 bHP for less than $4000.00.

But none of the stages costs less than $250.00 -- and only two of the first six stages in the process will yield a bHP gain of more than 30. (which is the amount that turbonator enthusiasts claim their product will yield.)

Those stages and their prices?

Stage 3: Upgraded ECU (chip) and boost jets -- bHP increase of about 50.

(Around $1000.00)

Stage 6: Bigger injectors and bigger turbocharger -- bHP increase of about 80.


Sorry, turbonator fans. Just don't think I could actually add 30 bHP for only 70 bucks...

ok..Guys. firstly thanks for all your disccusions about the turbonator the on and off supporters.
I have one my self but in Australia its called Hiclone. THEY both are the same.

Before I purchse the product, I thought its only a cheap money. If it does not work out/? Fine with me. Remember its only 69$. But Hiclone has won three international awads about the device that saves fuel and MORE POWER..... We will talk about it when I ACTUALLY G TEC it and see if it does better.

I know "SLANT" want us to dyno it...but it all comes down to cost??? It would cost US 50$ to do a run. [B]Remember I have done all the time trials WELL before I discorved your forum.[/B]Any way I bought a gtec pro vs the hand held stop watch. The aim is too see if BOTH gave the same trend.

On my b18c vtec civic (www.geocities.com/johnmarshome) ...I did lots time trials trust me using hand held stop watch before switching to G tec.(3 years).

Before the Hiclone placed.
0-100 (km/h)time 7.14;7.23;7.22.sec
G tec 6.99sec; 7.03;7.09

After 7.08/7.12/7.13
G tec: 7.02;6.95;6.89

In gear accleration using only hand held stop watch rolling 2nd gear comming from the corner TIME form 1000rpm to 4000rpm. Average about 3.95 sec(1000-4000 rpm ).

With hiclone its reduced from 3.95 to 3.85.
The test results are the only the edited version from my time trials since I have done so many runs on the civic to see if the Hiclone are actually work.

The answer is YES IT worked for my Vetc and also my Integra LS 1990. In both case it reduced 0-100km or In US 0-60 mile time by around 0.1 to 0.15 sec. The fuel consumption is dropped by around 3-5 % ONLY NOT 10%.
I know it does not sound much. At least I HAVE PROVED IT on the g tec and stop watch.
Remeber 20 hp is around 0.25 sec reduction in 0-100 km/h time.
So I would say Hiclone?turbonator has gained some power by around 3-6 hp.

I also tried on my friends V8(5000cc xr8 falcon). and he noticed a power gain straight away in the down low section.

I got one for my fathers new corrola ascent. And He told me the fuel consumption SEEMS to be better BUT A slight gain in throttle response(power).
I hope this will CLEAR OUT SOME OF YOUR uncessary argrunment about Hiclone.
They do work.
By the way I forgot to mention(very important) that the ALL Mercedice BENZE C320(V6) and late 2004 wrxs has the HICLONE look alike blades inside there intake runners. -NO BULL ****. I seemed the pictures, unless its a lie. So if they did it, IT MUST BE THERE for a reason. I know the swirl effects is staightend by the throttle blade. But I am sure the turbulace STILL creats a small pressure in the intake chamber that acts as a very smaller super charger.Whats your say????

ok..Guys. firstly thanks for all your disccusions about the turbonator the on and off supporters.
I have one my self but in Australia its called Hiclone. THEY both are the same.

Before I purchse the product, I thought its only a cheap money. If it does not work out/? Fine with me. Remember its only 69$. But Hiclone has won three international awads about the device that saves fuel and MORE POWER..... We will talk about it when I ACTUALLY G TEC it and see if it does better.

I know "SLANT" want us to dyno it...but it all comes down to cost??? It would cost US 50$ to do a run. [B]Remember I have done all the time trials WELL before I discorved your forum.[/B]Any way I bought a gtec pro vs the hand held stop watch. The aim is too see if BOTH gave the same trend.

On my b18c vtec civic (www.geocities.com/johnmarshome) ...I did lots time trials trust me using hand held stop watch before switching to G tec.(3 years).

Before the Hiclone placed.
0-100 (km/h)time 7.14;7.23;7.22.sec
G tec 6.99sec; 7.03;7.09

After 7.08/7.12/7.13
G tec: 7.02;6.95;6.89

In gear accleration using only hand held stop watch rolling 2nd gear comming from the corner TIME form 1000rpm to 4000rpm. Average about 3.95 sec(1000-4000 rpm ).

With hiclone its reduced from 3.95 to 3.85.
The test results are the only the edited version from my time trials since I have done so many runs on the civic to see if the Hiclone are actually work.

The answer is YES IT worked for my Vetc and also my Integra LS 1990. In both case it reduced 0-100km or In US 0-60 mile time by around 0.1 to 0.15 sec. The fuel consumption is dropped by around 3-5 % ONLY NOT 10%.
I know it does not sound much. At least I HAVE PROVED IT on the g tec and stop watch.
Remeber 20 hp is around 0.25 sec reduction in 0-100 km/h time.
So I would say Hiclone?turbonator has gained some power by around 3-6 hp.

I also tried on my friends V8(5000cc xr8 falcon). and he noticed a power gain straight away in the down low section.

I got one for my fathers new corrola ascent. And He told me the fuel consumption SEEMS to be better BUT A slight gain in throttle response(power).
I hope this will CLEAR OUT SOME OF YOUR uncessary argrunment about Hiclone.
They do work.
By the way I forgot to mention(very important) that the ALL Mercedice BENZE C320(V6) and late 2004 wrxs has the HICLONE look alike blades inside there intake runners. -NO BULL ****. I seemed the pictures, unless its a lie. So if they did it, IT MUST BE THERE for a reason. I know the swirl effects is staightend by the throttle blade. But I am sure the turbulace STILL creats a small pressure in the intake chamber that acts as a very smaller super charger.Whats your say????

A big Wow to Vtec78, mate your English is even worse than mine and mine ain't good.

Just where in Oz do you reside?

Ok, Vtec78, if you are prepared to loan me a Hiclone (or whatever) I will dyno my Stag (once the water leak is fixed!) before and after at my expense. The dyno's will be scanned and upped to here (or a linked place).

If the Stag results are curious and I am motivated I will even Hiclone the STi.

I will return the Hiclone afterwards. Now all I need is a donation (loaner) and NO I ain't buying one.

(Apologies for my English as I am Australian).

I did a little bit of digging about this Hiclone thing. This appears to be their website. Looking at their website doesn't leave me very convinced. The prizes often seem to be simply awarded by popular vote from people who visit invention exhibits like this one. The prizes seem to show no indication that the group that awarded them did any actual testing.

By the way, I have a G-tech too. I'm not sure which version you have, but mine is a bit touchy. If it's not mounted perfectly flat or gets tilted by a degree, that can affect the results. Even with back to back tests on an identical car, your tests seem to vary by a tenth of a second. Are you sure that your results are statistically significant?

ok, guys....I am from Sydney.
Now,...my g tec is version 1 not the g tec pro version. But its good enough for budget people like me. As I said before, I cross checked with my stop watch. And the results obtained from g tec and stop watch are quite consistent...so you cannt beat that. .....

The best place is place the hiclone is just after the filter and after the bend. around 30-40cm before the throttle plate which ever is avaliable for your car. You wanr max air speed and length(capacity.
I only tuned and tested on HONDA 1990-1995 cars. ANd the effect of hiclone varies from car to car.

STi boy, your turbo car is poweful enough, you need reset the ecu and run for 40kms before hiclone comes into effect...........I thought you can just boost up your turbo a little bit more instead of "hiclone

Slant, I just have to confirm with you about the g tec and stop watch times.
When I first started the time trials....3 years ago. The first 20 runs was bad(stop watch). I do 5 runs a day on the same street and same time(within 3 minutes). Of cause I only do it on the sunny day if not cloudy and dry. No trials on wet...... I found a place in Sydney thats is a dead end street with no cars.

The same methods repeated after one week or evry third day if time permits for the last 2 years. ALL my friends called me a freak...crazy guy .

I restrained my time trial to max 5-6 runs per day as the clutch gets really hot(brass bottom) thats when the time trials starts to decline after 6th runs by around 0.2 sec or more . Always pick the best three out of 5 runs as mentined in Gtec and scientific methodogy.

Sometimes if the measured times are WELL OUT eg, 7.03. 7.15, 7.45, 7.12 ; 7.18 the one with 7.45 does not account for totall average. In the case I take 7.15, 7.12. 7.03(lower and upper limit). Vice versa, I remebered one day the time was 6.55(gtec) the whole car jumped and I knew it was not real so that run did not count. Later, I got more consistent runs 7.13;7.09, 7.15..etc.
It took me at least 20 runs before my hands become steady when I release the clutch. With the Gtec, it came after 2 yeras of my stop watch trials...therefore my launch has become more consistent.

With the gtec, I MUST set the reading to zero if not +/_ 0.1 other wise no run. SO I tried to be as accurate as I can in all circumstances.

I hope this will clear out some confusions.

Thanks