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A speaker is nothing more than a thin piece of wire wound around a cylinder to an amplifier. You could hook a speaker with 1,000,000 watts of power handling and the amplifier will still only push 500 watts. It will only react to whatever is given to it, it wont ask for anything at all. If all you give is 500 watts, then it will only play 500 watts worth of loudness.
There is no way to wire individual strokers to 2 ohms each. It sounds like you shorted the connections on the amplifier or wired the voice coils opposite. If you need to, find an electrician or someone who fully understands parallel or series wiring. Wiring is a relatively simple concept once you understand it, but unfortunatly, there are only two types of people when it comes to wiring, those who understand it, and those who don't. My suggestion is to print out that link I sent, you and follow each connection 1 by 1 to make sure you have them right. Plus make sure you don't have random strands of wire touching anything else, that could also cause a short
It is possible that the Strokers are blown. In that case, send them back to Cerwin Vega, they'll recone them for $125 each, then you have absolutely brand new speakers.
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when i get the amp i am going to take it to my local car audio shop and have them install the amp, battery and wire it up and if it is blown which i dont know how it would be, i guess i will have to send it back
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do i need an alternator? If so would a 220 amp alternator be good or should I go stronger?
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I was running a 260 amp alternator for a 1700 watt class D amp and a 1000 watt class AB amp (total draw on the alternator ar rms was about 200 amps from the amplifiers). 220 should be plenty for a pair of 1000 watt class D amps.
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proly just going to run 1 1000 watt class d for now but i may eventually upgrade but i also have two other 2 channel amps for coaxil speakers along wit a dash tv and 4 other lcd screens
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can i get mine modified for that output or will i need to buy one separate?
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Your best bet is to buy a new alternator from a reliable high output alternator builder. The two I recommend are Ohio Generator and Iraggi Alternator.
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260 amp alternator is on the way from excessive amperage.. amp and battery are being installed this week.. next is my mids and highs... i am currently running 4 3way pioneer 6x8s in each door off a Memphis PR 200.2 amp... What is going to be my best bet with upgrading this.. Should I sell the pioneers and get some good 5.25 or 6.5 with cross over or just add some tweeters?
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I recommend a good set of 6.5"/1" component speakers. Something like MB Quart, Focal, etc. I wouldn't bother doing anything with the rear speakers. A properly set up front sound stage will cover the whole car no problem.
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What kind of amp would you put on a set of MB Quart 6.5 component set? Could I get a 4 channel amp that puts around 200 RMS to each channel to put my four door speakers and the mb quarts? door speakers are 50W rms each and mb quart are around 140 rms each
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I would just remove the door speakers altogether. Use the 6.5" components only, and use a good two channel amp that will deliver about 150 watts per channel to the speakers.
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one of the strokers did have a blown voice coil but it is covered so they are going to send me a recone kit and i will have somone at the local audio shop recone it for me for $30.. i do have one hooked up to a zx1000.1 at 4 ohms and it hits pretty low in the new box.. i can wait to get both hooked up and get a better amp and alt
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So, based on just hearing the one, does the box meet your expectations? With 500 watts in that box, you should be hitting in the neighborhood of 135dB. With both powered, fully, you should be closer to 145-148 all said and done, loud enough to make people vomit.
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I got to say I am pretty happy with it. With jus having the one stroker at around 500 watts it sounds good. It plays nice and low (lower than it used to) but can still hit a good higher bass note as well. As soon as I get the recone kit in I cant wait to hook both of them up and get metered. My next goal is to install the 260 amp alternator and damplifier the whole truck. But it will be a couple weeks before that
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This will probably sound weird, but it's really nice to see someone actually doing the whole deal correctly. So many people come through here either looking at cheap garbage or dead set on some fanboy product that almost everyone knows wont give them what they want. You are actually doing things right.
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I had my old system hooked up and I was one of those people that bought what I could afford and threw it in there hopin to be loud and it sounded like garbage and didnt last long at all.. If I wasnt blowing fuses than I was blowing subs and when I got my new SUV I decided to do things right and that is why I spend so much time on here. I dont like paying people to do stuff I know I can do if I learn. But when I get my stroker fixed I have a guy ready to buy my amp for exactly what I paid if I decide to get a bigger one and than the damplifier is going to kill me. Almost $600 is that normal?
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I would recommend the Spectrum over the Damplifier.
For a SUV, a 5 gallon bucket of spectrum sludge and a 40 sq ft pack of Damplifier (for large flat surfaces and problem spots) should do you.
I bought a 5 gallon bucket of the original spectrum 5 years ago, I've deadened 3 cars with it, and I still have some left over. Plus, the old stuff wasn't as good as the new stuff.
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About how much did you spend for that?
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I paid $250. But mine was a test batch, not a production batch. In any case, I was very impressed by the results. I've used the new sludge, it's far better than the original spectrum.
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so how hard is the sludge to install? I have never installed any sound deadner and the damplifier pro didnt look to hard so you say to install some damplifier and than get the hard to reach and the edges with sludge?
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Other way around. The sludge is much easier, and faster, just makes a mess if you're not careful. All you need is some industrial cleaner or acetone, a rag, and a plastic putty knife. Clean everything thoroughly, apply the sludge a little less than 1/8" thick everywhere, let set for 2 hours, apply another layer, set 2 more hours, 3rd layer, and let dry for 12-15 hours to fully harden. Then apply the mat to large flat surfaces like the floor and roof.
If you notice any problem spots later on, just apply more deadener. Be careful where you splatter it though, it does not come off anything once it dries. But clean up is easy when it's still wet, it's water soluble.
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http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...a_T9512-44.pdf
me and my buddy are building a box for his single 12" mtx 9500. I found this site for specs on a box but have a question if u can help me. On the vented enclosure would it make a difference where we mount the sub. It is going into a f150 and the max dimensions are 16x16 side to side and about 24 from top to bottom. If we mount the sub facing up and have the port out the side will it make a difference?
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Yeah, the port and sub need to be mounted on the same plane. Otherwise you get some screwy tunings. It can be done, but the port lenght needs to be altered to compensate for time aligning, and honestly, I have no clue how to go about that.
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I need some suggestions
i have a 03 tahoe that i bought a 1500 watt memphis amp hooked up to two 12" Comp VRs. its pretty loud now but is there anything i should add to it?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmcgee12589
i have a 03 tahoe that i bought a 1500 watt memphis amp hooked up to two 12" Comp VRs. its pretty loud now but is there anything i should add to it?
An amp and new front speakers to keep up with the bass. Nothing worse then hearing all bass and nothing else.
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