Final Build

cv - the amp looks 2 channel to me.. do i just wire each stroker to a 2 ohm load and put one onto each channel?

It's a single channel (I used to own one). It just has two sets of connections that are paralleled inside the amp chassis. Once channel, two sets of connections. It gives more wiring options, plus keeps costs down because the 1501D used the exact same chassis as the 1004, which was a 4 channel.

so how will i want to wire my subs to this amp.. i got 2 12" stroker dual 2 ohm vc

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161
"2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel"

i understand how to wire the subs up but which spot do I put them in on the amp?

As long as you hit one positive, and one negative, you're fine. There are two positives connected together, and two negatives connected together.

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Wire each sub in series to each set of terminals, and the parallel part will be done inside the amp.

here is some pics of the box build.. and near final product.. wrapped it in stretch velevet stuff from walmart for about $5 a yard and louisville cardinal fabric... i think it defintly one of a kind custom build.. how does the overall box build look?

Not bad, not bad. Lemme know how it sounds when it's running.

just ordered 2 kicker 1000.1 amps to put on em.. couldnt get the guy to work with me on the MTX so i went ahead and went with kicker... got my spare battery hooked back up and will have some sound as soon as the amps come in

I just noticed this, but I would definatly suggest removing that screen over the ports. The air moving in and out of that port will be traveling at an extremely high velocity, and that screen will make a lot of noticible noise.

just realized that the amps arent going to give me what i want.. kicker is not 1 ohm stable and unless i put both of them on 1 amp and wire it down to 2 ohm i have to wire each sub to 4 ohm to each amp and that will oly give me 500 watts. i think i screwed myself because now i have $500 i amps that i cant use.. am i right or is there a way to make this work? thanks

Try just using the one amp to start with, see if that gives you enough power. Sell the other one. If 1000 watts isn't enough, then sell the other to buy a bigger amp. I'll bet it will be louder with 1000 watts than you think. Gotta remember, you're only going to gain about 2 dB going from 1000 watts total to 2000. Theory says you're going to gain 3 dB, but considering the power source, power compression, and cabin dynamics, you lose a dB or 2 from what theory says you'll gain.

well i had the 2 power acoustik amps before.. rated at 2200 watt 1 ohm.. 1700 watt 2 ohm.. and 1200 watt 4 ohm.. i believe the shop that installed it had it wired down to 4 ohm ( i dont know why they didnt wire it to one ohm).. but power acoustik isnt a trusted amp as to what i have read.. so will one kicker 1000.1 monoblock wired to 2 ohm give me a better sound or equal to or lower?

The sound quality of an amplifier is irrelivant. As long as they are wired to a stable load and kept within their operating limits, each one will sound as good as the next. The big differences between amps are: reliability (quality of construstion), stability (ability to play into different loads without risk of overheating or premature clipping), and efficiency (able to put out rated power/quality of components). Power Acoustik lacks in all reliability and efficiency, they can take a beating though. Kicker is pretty solid reliability and efficiency, but prone to overheating if driven too hard.

Now, I don't know how much your particular amps lacked, but I am going to venture a guess saying that the single kicker may not be quite as loud, but it wont have as high a risk of dying either. I'd be willing to bet that the PA amp was good for at least 1000-1200 watts rms at 2 ohm.

Kicker is more or less equal to MTX (or at least MTX amps from last generation). I would drive the **** out of my Thunder 1004, run it into thermal overload almost daily; it would cool off, and power up and pound like hell every time, you can expect the same out of the Kicker amp (hopefully you wont overheat it as much as I did my amp)

If I wire both strokers into a 2 ohm load onto the amp, wouldnt that put alot of pressure on my amp? I mean both strokers state that 2000 watt RMS is what they handle and with the kicker i would be giving each sub roughly 500 watts RMS. Wouldnt the subs be trying to make the amp work harder than it can and cause it to over heat or go into protection?

I tried wiring each stroker into a 2 ohm load on the PA amp and it sounded like ****. At first it went into protection mode and wouldnt play and than it came on and one sub sound horrible while the other one barely moved. I hate to say it but one sub almost sounded blown. I am hoping that when I get my battery in and new amp installed it will sound alot better.

A speaker is nothing more than a thin piece of wire wound around a cylinder to an amplifier. You could hook a speaker with 1,000,000 watts of power handling and the amplifier will still only push 500 watts. It will only react to whatever is given to it, it wont ask for anything at all. If all you give is 500 watts, then it will only play 500 watts worth of loudness.

There is no way to wire individual strokers to 2 ohms each. It sounds like you shorted the connections on the amplifier or wired the voice coils opposite. If you need to, find an electrician or someone who fully understands parallel or series wiring. Wiring is a relatively simple concept once you understand it, but unfortunatly, there are only two types of people when it comes to wiring, those who understand it, and those who don't. My suggestion is to print out that link I sent, you and follow each connection 1 by 1 to make sure you have them right. Plus make sure you don't have random strands of wire touching anything else, that could also cause a short

It is possible that the Strokers are blown. In that case, send them back to Cerwin Vega, they'll recone them for $125 each, then you have absolutely brand new speakers.

when i get the amp i am going to take it to my local car audio shop and have them install the amp, battery and wire it up and if it is blown which i dont know how it would be, i guess i will have to send it back

do i need an alternator? If so would a 220 amp alternator be good or should I go stronger?

I was running a 260 amp alternator for a 1700 watt class D amp and a 1000 watt class AB amp (total draw on the alternator ar rms was about 200 amps from the amplifiers). 220 should be plenty for a pair of 1000 watt class D amps.

proly just going to run 1 1000 watt class d for now but i may eventually upgrade but i also have two other 2 channel amps for coaxil speakers along wit a dash tv and 4 other lcd screens

220 sounds about right

can i get mine modified for that output or will i need to buy one separate?

Your best bet is to buy a new alternator from a reliable high output alternator builder. The two I recommend are Ohio Generator and Iraggi Alternator.

260 amp alternator is on the way from excessive amperage.. amp and battery are being installed this week.. next is my mids and highs... i am currently running 4 3way pioneer 6x8s in each door off a Memphis PR 200.2 amp... What is going to be my best bet with upgrading this.. Should I sell the pioneers and get some good 5.25 or 6.5 with cross over or just add some tweeters?

I recommend a good set of 6.5"/1" component speakers. Something like MB Quart, Focal, etc. I wouldn't bother doing anything with the rear speakers. A properly set up front sound stage will cover the whole car no problem.